Have you just replaced the two front tyres on your Freelander 1, and now have all sorts of noises happening beneath you?
Have you just had a puncture and replaced that one tyre to save some money, and are now faced with a staggering bill to repair your whole drive train?
Are you thinking of changing the tyres on your Freelander? – read this article to make sure the only bill you end up with is the one for the tyres!
The Freelander 1 is in constant four wheel drive. The system operates with an IRD (transfer box) connected to the gearbox at the front. This is what effectively drives all four wheels. The IRD is connected to the front wheels by the front drive shafts; and to the rear wheels via a front prop shaft, which connects to the viscous coupling unit (VCU) halfway along the Freelander, through a rear prop shaft which goes into the rear differential and then to the two rear drive shafts.
How does the Freelander Four Wheel Drive Work?
The viscous coupling unit (VCU) – if you take a look underneath your Freelander this is the bulbous piece half way along the prop shaft – is filled with a viscous fluid and two sets of vanes, one linked to the front prop shaft and one to the rear prop shaft. In normal driving conditions the viscous fluid remains, well, fluid! This is because the vanes for the front and rear are spinning at about the same speed. Hence it is primarily the front wheels that do most of the work, and the rear wheels just follow behind.
When in difficult conditions, such as snow or mud, if one or more of the front wheels start to slip they spin faster, and hence the vanes in the VCU also spin faster. This increased agitation within the viscous fluid causes it to stiffen and hence engages the rear wheels to the drive system. So now the rear wheels will push the Freelander out of the snow or mud. Once you are out of the situation and all four wheels are moving at the same speed, the viscous fluid liquifies again and you are back to what is effectively front wheel drive.
How does the Freelander viscous coupling unit (VCU) fail?
Effectively there are two ways a VCU can fail, one is very rare, and that is when the viscous fluid no longer stiffens and you are effectively running in front wheel drive all the time. The worst outcome of this is that in the mud and snow you become stuck – no other damage will be done to the drive train.
The second, most common VCU failure is due to the VCU seizing – effectively the viscous fluid is stiff all the time. This will start to happen naturally at around 70,000 miles, hence the importance of changing your viscous coupling unit regularly; however other things can cause the same effect – such as a mismatch of tyres.
What is the importance of matched tyres on a Freelander?
Having unmatched tyre sizes on a Freelander 1 creates the same effect as a seized VCU, and can cause catastrophic damage to your drive train in just a few miles. A seized viscous coupling unit will put a strain all the way along the drive train, from the IRD / Transfer Box at the front (and even as far as the gearbox) through the VCU bearings, to the rear differential at the rear. If you continue to drive the Freelander with a seized VCU then you could cause irreparable damage to all these parts.
The crucial thing is to make sure you match tyre manufacturer, type and size on all four wheels of your Freelander (please note that even if you match the tyre type and size then there can be enough of a difference between the sizes from two different manufacturers to cause the VCU to seize – the tolerance level is only 5mm). If you really cannot afford to replace all four tyres at once then you may be able to get away with replacing just two from the same axle (i.e. the two rear tyres or the two front tyres – never replace just one tyre, and never replace one from the front and one from the rear), but make sure you get the same manufacturer, type and size as the ones that are remaining on the Freelander, and put the newest ones on the rear – but we really would recommend changing all four at the same time.
How can you tell if your viscous coupling unit (VCU) has seized?
Well, there are a couple of tell tale signs that your viscous coupling unit is seizing. One sign is when you are turning on full lock, either forwards or reverse, your Freelander will feel tighter than usual, a little like the brakes are on. A seized VCU also tends to cause unusual tyre wear, often around the edges of the tyre or on alternating blocks. The other thing to check, particularly if your tyres may be the problem, is the temperature of the VCU after you have driven it for a few miles. The VCU should remain cool to touch – but be careful, if you have mismatched tyres it can become very hot – so don’t blame me if you burn yourself when trying to touch it, you have been warned! If your VCU is getting too hot to touch this is putting tremendous strain on the drive train – DO NOT DRIVE YOUR FREELANDER ANY FURTHER! You need to sort your tyres out as quickly as possible – or remove the prop shaft until you can – or you might find your bank account emptying very quickly as you have to replace the IRD / Transfer box, the rear differential and even possibly the gearbox!
How do you check if your tyres are all of the same size?
It’s not the size that is printed on the edge of the tyre that is important to the Freelander drive train, it’s the actual physical size – don’t get these two confused! Tyres of the same size and type, from the same manufacturer, fitted at the same time should cause you no problems. Tyres of the same size and type from two different manufacturers could cause you a problem – be warned!
What is important is the rolling radius of the tyres (in other words the circumference). However, the easiest thing to measure is the diameter of the tyre, that is from one end of the tyre to the other, straight across the middle. To measure this make sure your Freelander has all four wheels on the ground (preferably flat ground) and that all tyres are correctly inflated, then balance a plank of wood on top of the tyre, so it is parallel with the ground, and measure the distance from the ground to the bottom edge of the plank. Remember, the tolerance in the difference in tyre sizes for the Freelander 1 drive train is only 5 mm, so measure carefully. And as a precaution check the temperature of your VCU after you have driven a few miles.
Hi Sue, You have helped me before and Ihope you can do it again…I’ve just changed the front tyres on my Freelander td4 2005 and have noticed a whining sound coming from underneath and it hard to tell if its front back or middle although there is a slight vibration under the front drivers seat. Both tyres are the same size that were on the car. Any ideas?
Hi Tony,
It is very important on the Freelander that all four tyres are matched – the same make, model, size, tread depth remaining and air pressure. If you have changed two of the tyres, particularly the front ones, even if they are the same make and model as the ones on the rear, if the difference int he tread depth between the front and the rear is more than about 2mm it can cause damage to the drivetrain. If they are a different make or model to the rear ones, as well as a different tread depth, then this is even more likely to cause damage.
The slight vibration could be coming from the viscous coupling unit (VCU) bearings or from a drive shaft (most likely the VCU bearings given where you are feeling it); this is another indication the tyres are mismatched and are causing damage along the drivetrain.
The most important thing is not to drive it any further with the mismatched tyres. You will need to replace the rear tyres for exactly the same make and model as the new front ones, or remove the prop shaft, otherwise you can do even more damage.
With regard to the damage which has already occurred; as I said, check the VCU bearings; check for any play in the IRD pinion and the rear differential pinion (or any signs of metal in the oil from either of these); also check the VCU itself has not been damaged by the mismatched tyres (when you do a full lock turn in first or reverse and lift your foot off the accelerator, if the Freelander comes to quite a sudden stop, a little like the brakes have been applied, then you will also need to change the VCU).
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi was wondering I have a 2004 td4 about 80000 on clock when I’m driving along and lift of accelerator there is a vibration from underside of car rumble sort of noise it’s also an automatic
Hi Gordon,
Have you replaced the viscous coupling unit (VCU) on your Freelander?
Check the viscous coupling unit hanger bearings for wear. Also check the driveshafts for any play.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
We have a pre-owned Freelander 05 TD4 wth about 67000 miles on the clock. A while ago it started to make a clunking noise just a after moving in reverse and then make the same again when going back into first and moving off. It’d not immediate – maybe 5 yards. Is this likely to be the VCU? I know the mileage suggests it might be.
Hi Paul,
This sounds like it could be the rear differential centre bush (mount). If it is then it could be a sign the VCU is putting a strain on the drivetrain, you are getting close to the expected lifespan for the VCU of about 70,000 miles. Are all of your tyres matched – same make, model, tread depth remaining and air pressure? If not then this could wind the VCU up and cause it to put a strain on the drivetrain.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Sue. Sounds like I will need to do he VCU in any case.
It would be a good idea Paul, given you are close to the 70,000 mile mark.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I have a free lander 2 2007 diesel with a fault. Driving anywhere between 6 and 20 miles get a message on the dash terrain system faulty this turns of terrain functions and cruise within a minute the fuel gauge drops range counts down to sero. I thought it might be the senders so had the wiring mod done but fault still there. So finally have replaced both senders and modified the connector with crimps but still have the fault.
Any ideas where to look next
Thanks
Forgot to add after 5 miles or so of the fuel gauge drop truck goes into limp mode.
Hi Pete,
Have you put it on diagnostics to read the fault codes? If you are getting an error on the dash board then there should be some fault codes logged. If you are losing your terrain response it sounds more to do with the driveline and perhaps the terrain response module or wiring. Have you ever had your Haldex serviced?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I am thinking of buying a 2004 td4 2l with 126000 miles on it. It has had complete servicing up to 90000. Some servicing was actually done by land rover. I took it for a test drive (I know nothing about Landrovers, this is my first one) and in a straight line when just pulling away in first gear I hear a a slight shuddering coming from the back. Everything else was fine apart from that when pulling away.
I also don’t understand what you mean by doing the reverse check on full lock? What do you mean by full lock? And how do I carry out this test to check the condition of the VCU?
Thank you very much,
Ciaren
Hi Claren,
Congratulations on considering buying a Freelander, they are great vehicles.
The slight shudder from the rear could be the rear differential centre mount starting to go – check for play in all htree mounts holding the rear differential on. If the Freelander has done 90,000 miles and has not had the viscous coupling unit (VCU) changed then we would strongly recommend changing it – if the shudder is the rear differential mount then it is likely to be caused by the VCU being past its life span.
To do the full lock test put the Freelander in reverse then turn the steering wheel as far as you can in one direction (this is the “full lock”) , it does not matter which direction, then try to move whilst in this “full lock” position. If, when you take your foot off the accelerator the Freelander comes to quite a sudden stop, a little like the brakes are on, rather than rolling, then that is a sign the VCU is putting a strain on hte drivetrain.
Good luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
If I was to replace the vcu would any garage be able to carry out the work and if so how much roughly would it cost? Parts and labour? I live in the uk?
Thank you very much,
Ciaren
Hi Ciaren,
Yes, most garages should be able to replace the VCU for you, although they may not know where to source one – we can certainly supply one if needed.
One thing to watch out for is that they fit a high quality bearing, in our experience the cheap VCU bearings do not tend to last.
Our price is £540 including VAT for a reconditioned VCU, high quality bearings and fitting. We are located at IP26 4RH, midway between Cambridge and Norwich.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
2008 Freelander, I had a whine and vibration from the rear and replaced the diff, the whine has gone but I still have some degree of vibration (not as bad). The vibration is sometimes a bit juddery and happens not long after moving away (20mph) usually on a hill, but also occasionally at whatever speed. 130,000 miles VCU unchanged but no restrictions from it during lock and reverse. The vibration is almost always while driving in a straight line. Would appreciate your input, regards
Phil
Hi Phil,
There is no VCU on your Freelander, this was only on the Freelander 1’s. Your Freelander 2 has a Haldex system – so you do not need to worry about the VCU but it is worth getting the Haldex serviced every 2 – 3 years – change the oil, filter and clean the pump. A Haldex service is not on the Land Rover service schedule so you will have to request it.
A vibration is often caused by a driveshaft so I would check these first. You could also check the joints on the prop shaft.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Star, thank you
I have a 2002 freelander. While driving if you press the accelerator with a sharp press or release the clutch in a swift motion ie, while approaching a roundabout, gear change to 2nd gear, clutch and when coast is clear, attempt to drive on quickly, the car makes a thunk from what I think is the transfer box. It’s certainly from the rear.
Any ideas?
Hi Owen,
This sounds like the rear differential centre bush has worn. Make sure your viscous coupling unit (VCU) is not past its useable life span of 70,000 miles, as wear on other parts of the drivetrain, such as the rear differential centre bush, can be an early sign of the VCU starting to put a strain on the drivetrain. Also make sure your tyres are all matched, the same size, make, model tread depth and air pressure, as a mismatch in tyres can wind up the VCU and hence cause a strain on the drivetrain.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello!
Normal size for 16′ wheels are 215!
It’s ok to put 225? The rest will be the same!
Thank you!
Hi Anton,
Yes, you can fit a 225/65 R16 tyres with no issues.
All the best,
Sue
Thank you!
All the best for you too!
My freelander td4 auto makes a whirring/juddering noise sometimes when slowing down and turning corners. it’s definitley coming from the front end, i liken it to driving over rumble strips. I have done the driving on full lock in reverse test (seems fine) and after driving quite a few miles the vcu is only slightly warm, not hot.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Pete
Hi Pete,
Check the vibration damper on the viscous coupling unit – give it a big tug to check if it has any movement in it. If the damper is loose then this is normally a sign the VCU is beyond its useful life and is putting a strain on the drivetrain – what mileage has your Freelander done?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, Thanks for the reply.
My freelander has just turned 115k, There is no record anywhere that the vcu has been changed so it must be getting ready. Is it normal for the vcu’s to get warm after a run?
Hi Pete,
The VCU should be barely warm after a run. You should be able to hold your hand on it comfortably. If it is getting warm this normally signifies a mismatch in tyres. However, if you have also done 115k miles with no evidence of the VCU being changed then we would strongly recommend you change it. Once you have a replacement VCU then see if it is still getting warm after a run and if it is then check the tyres for mismatches.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, thanks for your advice, I shall get the vcu changed as soon as i can.
Pete
Update on my February 2017 post.
As a precaution i had the VCU changed on my TD4 and it turned out that the whirring/juddering noise was being caused by badly worn VCU support bearings. these were changed along with the VCU and now all is good.
Hi Peter,
Excellent. If the VCU bearings had gone then this is likely to have Bee caused by the VCU itself putting a strain on them; so it was a good move to change the VCU.
All the best,
Sue
Good morning Sue,
my recently bought 2002 FL1 has only 78k kilometres on the clock
but it already shows the brakes-on-while-reversing symptom.
It was well maintained by the previous owner, all four tyres are of the same brand, type and age.
Is it likely that the VCU has seized so early?
Regards,
Stefan
Good Morning Stefan,
Congratulations on your purchase.
The symptoms you describe do point to the VCU being past its useable life, however that is low mileage for this to be the case. It is possible the VCU has been wound up in the past, perhaps by a tyre issue, having one tyre with low pressure can cause a mismatch and put strain on the VCU, so to protect the drivetrain we would recommend you change the VCU even though the mileage is low.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thank you for your quick reply, Sue.
I have just checked the IRD. It´s covered with a thin layer of kind of fat towards the propshaft.
Is this something to worry about?
hi I am thinking of buying a td4, which is in excellent condition for a 15 year old car, it has done 67k miles with 6 stamps in the service history up to 58k. The oil is very dark and dirty so is probably due for a service now, however the one I have seen has a few problems.
1. When turning left or right there is a juddering and sound, having looked underneath at the prop it looks like the front vcu bearing has completely collapsed. will this have been caused by a faulty vcu? on the other hand will this have caused damage to the vcu? it drives fine with no sound in a straight line. How do I know if the vcu is damaged?
2. it is being sold saying there is a fault with the turbo, it seems to drive and run ok with a clean exhaust, it doesnt seem to make any horrible noises from the turbo. What would suggest it needs a new turbo?
3. the o/s rear window does not open or close and is stuck about 3/4 of the way up, the n/s rear window does go up and down but is slow and struggles, any ideas?
Any idea of cost to rectify these problems before I buy it?
many thanks
Rob
Hi Robert,
Congratulations on considering a Freelander, they are great vehicles.
The Td4 Freelander 1 should be serviced every 12,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes soonest, so, at 67,000 miles and 15 years old you would be ready for the 15 year service (since it is low mileage you should operate to the time and not the mileage).
In answer to your questions:
1. A collapsed VCU bearing would certainly not help the drivetrain as it will be making all the joints move. Given the age and mileage of the Freelander this could just be wear on the bearing or it could be strain from the VCU, since it is recommended to change the VCU every 70,000 miles. As you are close to this limit and will need to do the labour to replace the bearing anyway, we would strongly recommend you change the VCU at the same time as both bearings. For a reconditioned VCU, GKN bearings (in our experience the cheap aftermarket bearings do not tend to last), fitting and VAT you are looking at £540.
2. Generally a turbo fault is seen from either excessive smoking, a whistling noise from the turbo or a whooshing noise.
3. The window issues sound like regulator problems, the o/s rear sounds like the wires may have snapped and the n/s rear could be the motor. Replacing the window regulators should solve both these issues. You would be looking at roughly £100 per window for the regulator, fitting and VAT. Alternatively you may feel comfortable fitting these yourself to save some costs.
Good luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
We bought a 2001 Td4 freelander, about 4 months ago..After we bought it, we heard a strange sound , the car was ” ticking ” sometimes, when you give a little power. We tought that, it is the automatic transmission.
But…after that the car is broke. My father took the engine out, and the crankshaft was broken.
The automatic transmission is great.
Can the VCU broke the crankshaft if it is not working great?
Many thanks!
Matthew
Hi Matthew,
We are sorry to hear about the issues with your Freelander.
No, the VCU would not cause a crankshaft to break.
The cause of the broken crankshaft is liable to be due to an issue with the crankshaft pulley which is a torsional damper, so if this has not been reducing the vibration enough then the crankshaft can break.
All the best,
Sue
Hi im steve ive had a new prop and changed all 4 tyres at the same time, uj joints went within 10 months so had them changed. Is it be possible to remove the prop and run it as a front wheeldrive help…
Hi Steve,
I assume it is a Freelander 1 (1997 – 2006) model. If so then yes, you can remove the prop shaft and run in front wheel drive without any problems. When you changed the prop shaft did you replace the VCU for a new or reconditioned one?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue:
Recently bought a Non-Contact Temperature Gun for the VCU. After driving two miles, should the temperature of the VCU remain 100% unchanged? Or should it be a few degrees higher due to the close proximity of the exhaust?
I guess what I’m saying here is, *at what percentage of temperature change, should I be concerned about the VCU?*
Thanks, as always.
Hi Jason,
You would expect it to warm up a little bit due to the rotation of the prop shaft and the exhaust as you mentioned, however we would not expect it to get so hot you could not hold your hand on it, hence it should not get more than a few degrees above body temperature.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Think Jason has a valid question as its proximity to exhaust. I have driven my freelander appx 10 mile up and down mountain roads. The VCU is warm and I can hold it . Do you think the labour of mountain roads and exhaust would play significant part in the VCU tempreture..hate to think of replacing vcu and get same symptoms.;-(
Hi Colin,
The more the Freelander has to engage the rear wheels the warmer the VCU will become, but it should not get red hot. To test it take it for a short journey of a couple of miles or so where there are not too many corners or challenges.
The best advice we can give is to change the VCU roughly every 70,000 miles as, in our experience, this seems to be the the point at which damage starts to occur because of the strain from the VCU.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi
I have bought the 2000, 3 doors, 2.0 DI Freelander and and wen turning on full it feels like a 4×4. I do not know if it is normal or not because its the first one i drive, it just feels a litle more tighter than in a front wheel drive car. I will check if it stays warm or not. I have new tyres on front, Dunlop Grandtreck AT2, and after reading your opinion about it i will go for new ones on the rear as well. The ones that are there look like new but have 6 years on. So, what more sould i look on this used unit?
Best regards,
Hello João,
Congratulations on your purchase.
Changing the tyres is urgent for you. If you do ever only put two new tyres on a Freelander make sure the new ones are on the rear and not the front, then take it for a drive, 5 – 10 miles, and test if the viscous coupling unit (VCU) is getting hot to the touch. If it is then you would need to change the other two tyres too. In your case, with the newest tyres on the front, you are definitely risking damage to the drive train.
The Freelander will never feel as free as a front wheel drive, however it should not feel as though it is holding back on you. If it does feel as though it is holding back (a little like the brakes are on) then it is probably time to change your VCU, particularly if you have done over 70,000 miles (about 120,000 km).
The DI engines are generally very reliable, just make sure you change the timing belt every 48,000 miles (about 80,000 km).
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello Sue
Many thanks for your help. ;o)
Tomorrow, just for precaution, i will take of the propshaft because i need to drive another 250 km from work back home. I come to work on it just to check the fuel consumption and the feeling of the car. Now i think that was not a good idea. It is the first time that i have a car that not have the same tyres in both axels. Some times, tryind to go cheap can result in just the oposite. Lesson learned………again!
The car as 100 000 km on the speedo, so how can i check if the time belt as been changed?
I have just one more question, where is the cabin/pollen filter on this model?
Best regards from Albufeira – Portugal
Hello João,
That is a very wise decision.
Unfortunately the only way of telling if the timing belt has been changed is from the service history.
Many of the DI Freelanders do not have a pollen filter fitted. If they do have a pollen filter it is situated in the left hand side footwell in the air box.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue
Thank you so much for your great great help.
All the best,
João
Hi Sue
VCU and shafts removeded, all working just fine. The steering runs more freely on full clock that before and the car runs more quietly, less vibrations. So, do i need to install one blanking plate for the IRD, or can i run the car just as it is? What will be the benefit with the blanking plate?
All the best,
João
Hi João,
No, you do not need to install a blanking plate, you can drive it as it is. The reason for installing the blanking plate is if the crown wheel and pinion have been damaged, the blanking plate allows you to remove the pinion and run the Freelander without having to repair the IRD.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
hi sue
i have a 2005 freelander td4 with 17″ wheels they have 225 55 17 on at the moment and they just look lost in the arches .i wanted to get new tyres but i’m getting mixed messages on tyre sizes that are ok to use i wanted to use 225 65 17 would i be able to do this without doing anything to the car ie. wheel spacers or a lift kit or would i be better with 225 60 17 i only do a little green laning so don’t think i need a/t tyres but with 225 55 17 i have taken a chunk out of one of the alloys already and was told a larger tyre would help thanks for any advice
rick
Hi Rick,
If you change to 225 65 17 you are risking damage to the drive train as these are 4.7% (34mm) larger in diameter than the original recommended tyre. The 225 60 17 should not give you any problems as they are just 1.71% larger (12mm).
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi
I have 2002 td4 and after about 15 miles of doing 75- 80 mph my VCU got worm not hot just slightly worm.
is this a failure of vcu?
regards
Rafa
Hi Rafa,
I think I may have spoken to you on the telephone. With a mismatch in tyres the VCU does get warm. Make sure you get the tyres changed as well as the VCU.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi got a td4 on a 02 just got it cheap coz some tool stuck it in a 2wd brake tester bust the CV on the front of the prop and cracked the transfer box and snapped the mounting Bolts Got box repaired but vibration from oSF when accelerating only 2nd gear ? Tryed a full l brand new OSF drive shaft still same drives fine other wise only running in two wheel drive at moment no play in anything on OSF any ideas thanks
Hi Noel,
Have you checked the NSF driveshaft? Also check the suspension bushes. Do you know if the vibration was there beforehand or if it was caused by the brake tester?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Dec. 18th 2014, 21:25
Hi, I’ve just bought a Freelander 1 1.8 petrol knowing it had a ‘noise’ – probably more fool me, but it was cheap!! At lower speeds, up to about 40mph the noise is bearable and sounds much like tyre noise, but as you go faster the noise becomes louder, and I also feel the car begin to vibrate. The vibration is felt more through the seat than the steering wheel. I removed the prop shaft hoping that this would help, but if anything the vibration seems worse (no real difference to the noise). Does this sound like an IRD problem, or could it be tyres? Are there any checks I can do myself to identify the problem, as funds are limited!.
Thanks in advance,
Andrea.
07771 737660
Hi Andrea,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
If your tyres are Goodyear Wranglers they tend to wear unevenly and so it could very well be the tyres. If your tyres are not Goodyear Wranglers it is likely to be a wheel bearing. If you jack the Freelander up and spin the wheels one by one you should be able to identify which wheel it is.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I have a 2004 Freelander Td4 diesel automatic with 90k miles on it. About 3 months ago I had the prop and VCU removed as there was a noise making the car undriveable. That make the noise a little better, but then we discovered the rear wheel bearing was shot, causing more noise. Had the bearing replaced, and then about 200 miles later, the Freelander died. The first symptom was a shudder as if the car suddenly lost electrical power for a few seconds, then came back.
Within another hundred metres of that incident, the car started squealing from what appeared to be the passenger side wheel. On closer inspection it looks like the sound is actually coming from the IRD box where the driveshafts connect.
The sound is something I haven’t heard before, and it’s accompanying feeling is quite nasty. Basically, it sounds (and feels) like a giant rubber band is being twisted, until the front wheels lock up. If you reverse a little (10 feet or so, you can hear the scraping sound and almost feel the car “unwinding”, and then you can go a few more metres forward. Sometimes the whees turn without a problem, and other times they just lock up.
This behaviour is the same whether the engine is on or off, in gear or neutral. As for the gearbox, everything there seems to be working just fine as far as responsiveness and gear changes go. There is no noticeable difference with the engine noise or response when it is stationary, and it behaves exactly as it should when putting it in gear, sport mode or anything else.
Now, I’m told by the mechanic (and this is where I decided I’m not sure I trust him) that to change the transfer box or IRD unit is a massive job involving pretty much breaking down the entire car. I’m not even certain what the problem actually is, as no-one who hears the sound can recognise what it is, or what the approximate cause is.
Can you help, given the basic symptoms I describe here?
Thanks
Ben
Hi Ben,
I believe you spoke to Nobert on the telephone yesterday. To recap, this definitely sounds like an IRD issue, unfortunately the damage will have been done prior to you removing the VCU, and removing the VCU just gave you a little extra life from it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello. We have a TD 4 sports 2004 auto diesel with fsh and 107k on the clock.
It drives great but it sometimes we get a shuddering from directly under neath when on lock left or right on a tight turn for example.
I’m guessing something on the prop shaft, but what do I know!
There seems to be a bit of power loss up hills and a bit more juice used, but again what do I know.
Thanks in advance, Martin
Hi Martin,
Have you ever had the viscous coupling unit (VCU) replaced? Generally these last for about 70,000 miles before risking damage to the rest of the drive train. The VCU is the bulbous part half way along the prop shaft.
From your symptoms when on full lock it sounds like the VCU is past its useable life and is putting a strain on the rest of the drive train. We would recommend you remove the prop shaft as soon as possible and run in front wheel drive until you can get the VCU replaced with either a new or reconditioned unit. Removing the prop shaft will stop any further damage being done.
Once the prop shaft is removed you should be able to tell if this was causing the problem as everything will feel much lighter.
The loss of power up hill could be attributed to the VCU, however it is possible this could be a separate issue, so please do let us know if that symptom still exists and we will give you some pointers.
If you would like us to supply you with a VCU we can supply a reconditioned unit for £275 or a new unit for £395. We would recommend changing the bearings at the same time; the best bearings are GKN, which are £140 for the pair (the cheap bearings just do not last and we will no longer supply them). If you wanted us to fit the VCU the fitting is £105, alternatively we can ship anywhere in the world, UK shipping is £15 for a new unit or £35 for a reconditioned (which covers shipping the reconditioned unit to you and your old unit back to us, as this is an exchange unit). All prices include VAT.
All the best,
Sue
+_44-780-9575-421
I have a Freelander 1 2005, when the car is on the road with a constant velocity and tread lightly on the accelerator, a vibration, if only to take their foot off the accelerator arises. What can it be?
Hi Jose,
The common things which can cause a vibration are:
– the viscous coupling (VCU) support bearings;
– the CV joint on the prop shaft;
– mismatched tyres.
If any of these are a problem, in the case of the first two these may be caused by a VCU being beyond it’s useable life of approximately 70,000 miles; and in the third case mismatched tyres can cause damage to the VCU, and particularly the rear differential.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi
Thanks for the info, can I ask if I remove the prop shaft and vcu unit will i be able to put pairs of tyres on my 2004 freelander front or rear as normal. I live in France and over here we have to replace pairs anyway. I cant see any reason for us to need four wheel drive
Thanks
Allan
Hi Allan,
Yes, once the prop shaft and VCU are removed the matching of the tyres is no longer important, so you can replace any number at a time.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Excuse my left-of-field thinking on this subject but… If a VCU simply detects (and reacts to) a difference in wheel-rotation-rate and the end-goal is to equalise this criterea on all four wheels – would`nt the critical measurement actually be Radius -Preferably measured from the centre of the wheel to floor – Also if this is indeed the case – any discrepancies in tyre-tread could easily be counteracted quite precisely (certainly within a 5mm tolerance) by simply fine tuning the tyre pressures.
Mark Opie
Australia
Hi Mark,
Yes, the radius is the critical measurement, however since radius (R), circumference (⊓R^2) and diameter (2R) are directly related a change in the radius will be directly reflected in any of these measurements. Yes, any discrepancies could be counteracted by precise inflation of the tyres to within 5mm of each other, however this would generally not be practical for standard drivers and with the tyre inflation equipment which is generally used. So yes, your thinking is correct.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
G`day Sue
I have recently bought a pre-loved 03 FL-TD4 with 175K Kms on the clock 🙂
Unfortunately even though the car drives fine and the VCU only ever feels `Very-Warm` at most I have no way of telling if the VCU has ever been changed 🙁
Having heard too many horror-stories about tired VCUs causing all manner of grief to all things Drivetrain-and-Wallet I personally feel it most prudent to simply play-safe and invest in a brand-new VCU-unit along with a set of you finest weapons-grade support-bearings B-)
Therefore my question is – how much would it cost to ship out the aforementioned conglomeration out to sunny Australia B-)
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Hi Mark,
Very wise decision, especially if it is getting “very warm”.
The shipping cost to sunny Australia is £95.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, Just bought a 2001 manual td4 with 109,000mls on it. I did have a lot of receipts with it but nothing for the vcu, so I decided to do the reverse on full lock and dip the clutch and it slowed down quite quickly. So I decided to change the vcu and support bearings. I purchased a GKN vcu from island 4×4 (Britpart box. vcu stamped GKN) and fitted it, decided to do the reversing test again and it was just as tight as before! By the way I did the reversing test without the vcu fitted (to check the brakes were not sticking) and it was NOT tight at all. Does the new vcu need to be run for a while to loosen it up or is there something else wrong with the transmission.
Thanks, Deek
Hi Derek,
There is a massive difference, when turning on full lock, between having a VCU fitted and not having a VCU fitted. So comparing these does not tell you anything.
It sounds as though perhaps your original VCU was not as stiff as you thought. The VCU does not need running in and will not loosen up over time.
There are a couple of things you should check to make sure you do not have a problem:
1. Check the VCU bearings have been fitted correctly (if you have the VCU supported by it’s bearings, without the prop shaft fitted, and spin it you should find it spins a good number of times before coming to a stop, not just once or twice).
2. Make sure nothing is heating the VCU up and making it stiff. Take the Freelander for a drive then get underneath and touch the VCU (be careful, it could be very hot). If it is too hot to hold your hand on comfortably then your VCU is being wound up, probably by mismatched tyres, which you will need to sort out.
3. There is a possibility you have an issue with the new VCU, but this is VERY rare. We would also not expect you to have an issue with the transmission. Some resistance is normal, if you are just slowing down and not coming to a more abrupt halt.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Sue, I’ll check it at the weekend.
Cheers,
Deek
Hi Sue,
I wondered if you had chance to read my post from a few days ago?
Thanks
Paul
Hi Paul,
Yes I did, my apologies I have only just had chance to reply this morning.
The reply is:
At 71k we would recommend you start to think about changing the VCU to ensure no damage can occur to the drive train. If you reverse the Freelander on full lock and it appears to be holding back on you, a little like the brakes are on, then it is definitely time to change the VCU – the problem is this can creep up on you a little as it is a gradual deterioration.
With regard to the clunking noise when the TC light comes on, this is liable to just be the TC working.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, I maybe about to buy a 2004 freelander td4 with 131000mls on it, is it possible it is the original vcu on it.
regards
Deek
Hi Deek,
It is possible it is the original VCU, particularly if it is an automatic, the VCU’s tend to last longer on the automatics. To test if it appears to have a problem try reversing on full lock, if it feels as if it is holding back, a little like the brakes are on, then you need to change the VCU.
Good luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello
I have just bought a 2006 HSE TD4 auto with 71k miles.
Am unsure about how to tell if the VCU needs replacing. It feels a little tight on full lock but no more than my previous discovery or grand cherokee. I drive in wet muddy fields fairly regularly and the back wheels definitely get power when needed, but when the TC light comes on there is a clunking noise from somewhere, is that just the TC working or something indicative of a problem?
Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks
Paul
Hi Paul,
Congratulations on your purchase.
At 71k we would recommend you start to think about changing the VCU to ensure no damage can occur to the drive train. If you reverse the Freelander on full lock and it appears to be holding back on you, a little like the brakes are on, then it is definitely time to change the VCU – the problem is this can creep up on you a little as it is a gradual deterioration.
With regard to the clunking noise when the TC light comes on, this is liable to just be the TC working.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi ive bought a freelander 1 a few months ago and when turning left or right there was a juddering or thumping noise. i took off the propshaft and the noise has gone.is the propshaft bearings at fault here or viscous coupler.also is it ok to drive in 2 wheel drive.thanks
Hi Ernie,
Unfortunately this sounds as though it is a problem with your IRD / Transfer Box. Once you remove the strain by taking the VCU off then it can quieten down, it will, however get worse over time. No problem running the Freelander in two wheel drive.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
Great information about the matching of tyres. I had been puzzling all day on weather to go for better tyres on my Freelander Y-reg V6 than the 4 x 215/65 R16 Pirelli Scorpion STRs currently fitted. They were replaced as a set several years back. The front two have worn evenly, right down to the legal limit. The rears still have a reasonable amount of tread left (about half, I believe). In all admission, this is probably because I like throwing into corners relatively hard on dry roads, i.e. I’ve scrubbed them out a bit more at the front. No VCU problem is apparent.
Now I am going to stick with the same manufacturer and type (thanks), but I do only plan to replace 2 of them.
Now comes my dilemma. I recognise your point about the 5mm tolerance, but I’ve not been able to figure out why the new tyres should go on the rear. In my mind, I was planning to put the new tyres at the front for better grip, cornering, etc. and thinking that by the time I’ve also scrubbed those for replacement, the rears will be about due and I can replace all 4 again. I.e. it also won’t be too long before they are better matched. Likewise, I fear that moving my part-worn tyres from rear to front, with new on the rear will soon exacerbate the tread differential as I wear the part-worn ones quicker at the front.
Please can you elaborate on why it is better to have the effectively larger (new) tyres on the rear?
Also, in my particular circumstance, and with my points and concerns raised, do you think that I, albeit as an exception, am probably better off to put the new ones on the front, expecting they’ll soon “catch up” and with the part-worn rears?
Thanks ever so much,
Tim
Hi Tim,
I have talked to many experts about the reasons for the new tyres going on the rear rather than the front and tried to determine mathematically why this is so. It does have something to do with the ratios but I have never got quite to the bottom of it, to my satisfaction anyway. What I can categorically tell you, from the empirical evidence, is that the newer tyres MUST go on the rear, regardless of how your tyres wear, or any circumstances surrounding how the Freelander is driven. I can understand your logic of wanting to put the new tyres on the front, but please do not do it.
If you only replace two (putting the new ones on the rear), make sure you check they are not winding the VCU up. You can check this by driving a few miles then feeing the VCU (be careful it could be hot). If it is too hot to hold your hand on comfortably then you will have to change the other two tyres too to avoid damage to the rest of your drive train.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
Thanks ever so much. I’ll certainly follow your advice entirely.
This was keeping me up last night, still puzzling it out for myself, thinking this was to do with effects on the drive train. I believe not. Instead, the 5mm front to rule rule of thumb is enough and, as you state, must be adhered to, and it is the lesser of concerns as to which placement has the larger circumference.
Far greater seems to be the effect on handling. Pulling together all the different opinions, this video explains the importance of new tyres on the rear most convincingly for me: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSz7cm6MwH0
This blows a hole in the concept of tyre rotation though.
For me, it is going to be new tyres on the rear and check the VCU, not just now but regularly as my tires wear, particularly since they wear faster on the front of my Freelander. Any VCU problems now, I’ll get the others done. Any VCU problems later, and it’s a change and swap again.
Best regards,
Tim
Hello again thanks for the reply and price guide I will look into this , I have just looked underneath and felt vcu it’s stone cold after about 3 miles so guess that kind of rules that one out the question but the bearings look rusty could this be a issue or am I imagining things as I’m new to landrover ? Vcu looks very clean and black in colour or should I do the whole lot ( replace ) ? Thanks once again sue , Andy
Hello Andy,
The VCU remaining cold means your tyres are not mismatched, it does not mean the VCU is in good condition generally. If you have no evidence of the VCU being replaced after 88k miles, and the Freelander feels like it is holding back and is using so much fuel, then we would definitely recommend changing the VCU to ensure it does not damage the rest of the drive train. The fact that the VCU looks clean does not mean anything. A problem with the VCU bearings would generally cause a vibration, it should not increase fuel consumption that much.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello what a fantastic site this is , the other day I have bought my lovely freelander 2.0 td4 diesel 2055 55plate my family and I love it but I noticed it did not like 70mph on motorway it had a bouncy feel to it as like the wheel balancing was out ( I know this could be the issue 🙂 ) but it was bouncing the whole car to a point it was horrible also it drank quite a lot of diesel about just under a quater of a tank doing 22miles is this normal ? I’m sure I’ve noticed it holing back a little like breaks are on slightly , also noticed I can move back near side wheel by hand ( rocking ) back and fourth feels like a worn wheel baring but not heard a rumble like a worn one it sounds like the hub is loose thanks Andy.
Hi Andy,
Congratulations on your purchase, it is great to hear you all love it.
What mileage has the Freelander done? It certainly sounds as though you have an issue with the viscous coupling unit (VCU) being past its useable life, almost definitely if it has have done over 70,000 miles. This would certainly contribute to it using so much fuel.
What condition are your tyres in? Are they all the same make, model and size? Do they all appear to have the same tread? If you drive for a few miles and then touch the VCU (be careful it could be very hot) can you hold your hand on it comfortably or is it too hot? If it is getting hot then you have a problem with mismatched tyres.
Make sure you check the wheel hub.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks ever so much il check this out and find out how much a vcu is and report back after work is complete shall I just change this part ? Also it’s done 88k thanks again sue , Andy.
Hi Andy,
At 88k it would definitely be worth changing the VCU, I would change the bearings too.
We can supply a reconditioned VCU for £275, bearings £65 for the pair; or a new VCU for £395, GKN bearings £105 for the pair. All prices include VAT. Fitting is £105, or UK shipping is £35 for the reconditioned unit (which includes shipping the reconditioned unit to you and your old unit back to us) or £15 for the new unit (return of your old unit is not required). Currently we have a couple of weeks waiting list for the reconditioned units; the new units are available immediately.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue, Im just bought a Diesel 2.0 Freelander 1998 ..what are the best thing/priority for used car, exp, change the engine oil etc..before I use it for long journey ahead..
thank u very much..
Hi Matt,
Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure you are going to love it.
On the L-series diesel, which is what you have, the first thing is to make sure your viscous coupling unit is not beyond its usable life. If the Freelander has done over 70,000 miles and has no history of having the viscous coupling unit (VCU) changed then I would seriously consider getting it changed for a new or reconditioned unit as soon as possible. This will be particularly important if it feels as if it is holding back on you when on full lock, particularly in reverse gear.
Once you have made sure your drive train is safe then a service, or at least an oil and filter change would be a good idea, and make sure it is using red coolant, not the green or the blue.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, my front tyres were being worn out on the edges so bordering on illegal, so I got the wheel alignment don’t last week.
Today I took the car to get road worthy tyres put on. The garage put two second hand tyres on the car at my request. As I drove out of the garage, down to the end of the road, I turned the car to the right and the car ‘clunked’ and then became undrivable. The back wheels weren’t turning. There was also oil leaking from under the car.
I called the mechanic out of the garage, took the car back into the garage. I told him that they just changed the tyres and now the cars broken. They said it was not their responsibility.
They checked under the car and told me the front differential has cracked a hole in it. They said it needs to be replaced. The front diff is causing the back wheels to jam, so only front wheels are working. The car is undrivable.
The mechanic told me to buy a spare front diff second hand and it will fix the problem. Is the problem due to the tyres being mismatched?
Should I remove the prop shaft to make it 2 wheel drive? What is the best thing to do?
Thank in advance x
Hi Ali,
Yes, your problem has been caused by a mismatch in the rolling radius of the tyres, which has heated up the viscous coupling unit (VCU) and caused it to seize, damaging the IRD (front differential).
To return your Freelander to four wheel drive you would need to replace both the IRD and the VCU. If you are happy for it to be two wheel drive then you could just replace the IRD and leave the prop shaft off. Since the IRD is cracked and leaking oil you will need to replace this.
What ever you do DO NOT fit a second hand VCU. The VCU’s last for about 70,000 miles before you are risking it damaging the rest of your drive train. So if you do not know what mileage a VCU has done it is difficult to know when to replace it before it does major damage.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi I have a freelander 1 with the BMW td4 engine. It makes a top end tapping noise on low revs overrun, but never when its pulling. I was wondering if this is a common problem with freelanders, because it’s been to several garages without being cured.
Regards Phil
Hi Phil,
The garages which have tried to cure the problem, did they check the injectors and the fuel rail pressure switch?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi I have a 2004 Hse TD4 in constant 4 wheel drive I spent a large sum of money so far on centre bearing rear mounts still have the knocking problem when the engine is under load can i remove the propshaft and drive it in 2wd. this is to see if it still vibrats under load. or do i have to remove more bits from the rear of the car
My front propshaft bearings need replacing can I stlll drive it while waiting for them to be done
Hi Ian,
If it is just your prop shaft bearings then you shouldn’t have a problem, but if your Freelander is over 70,000 miles then we would strongly recommend you change the whole VCU before it causes and damage to the rest of your drive train. You can remove the whole prop shaft with VCU and run in front wheel drive without any problems, until you are ready to replace the bearings or VCU.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I also have just purchased a Freelander second hand. it has low miles but may have not been looked after mechanically.
I got the vehicle with two sets of tires mixed front to back. I think it was their way of trying to keep the front and back wheels going at the same speed. I have a new set of four tires on now. I hope no damage has resulted from the previous tire sizes.
I want to thank you for providing this expert information so that myself and other Freelander owners can look after our vehicle as best as possible. This is a good vehicle but has its own peculiarities. I will be buying a spare VCU as backup for when I need to change it in the future.
Thanks !
Hi New Guy,
Congratulations on your purchase, it sounds as though she is going to be a well looked after Freelander and will give you lots of enjoyment.
If you have no whining noises from the back of the Freelander then you should be fine now you have changed the tyres.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Is it better change it to front wheel drive instead of four wheel drive because I can get it done
Hi Adi,
If you feel you do not require four wheel drive then removing the prop shaft so that it becomes front wheel drive only does remove the issue of mismatched tyres, and ensures you cannot do damage tot he drive train. It can also give you better fuel economy. So this can be a good solution in some cases.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I have just bought a freelander 1 2nd hand, and I have read far and wide about the dreaded head gasket failure. I found traces of mayo on my dip stick the other day and promptly took the car to a landrover specialist who dye and pressure tested it and came to the conclusion I did not have a head failure. The only problem is that I find I am using a lot of coolant and there are no obvious puddles of water under the car. Do you have any ideas what could be happening. Thanks
Taz
Hi Taz,
Congratulations on your purchase.
The dye test is for combustion gasses in the system. However, we would have expected the pressure test to show an issue given your description. If you are getting mayo in the oil then the water is getting into the oil and this would be from the head gasket. It would also explain how you are losing water but have no visible signs of an external leak. It really does sound as though you have a head gasket problem.
One other place to check for a leak is in the passenger footwell inside the Freelander. If this is damp with coolant then you would have a problem with your heater matrix, however it would not explain why you have mayo in your oil.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello,
I just bought à freelander wagon 2e hand it is from aug 2006 with 163000 km.
I just want to drive from home to my work and use it als à family car .
Is it neccesary to change the VCU just driving the roads ? It Will never be off road .
For off road i have à lightweight .
I was thinking About disconnecting the whole system and just drive on the front Axel ,
To save problems .
À friend of me has had the VCU problems also and it Cost him à lot off money to fix the drive train.
Als far als i can see the vehicle has not been off road ( extreem )
At last i Will say That hou have à Great site and i Will stay on it for your tips .
Kind regards .
Bert and family.
Hello Bert & family,
Yes, whether you use your Freelander just on the roads or you use it off road you still need to change the VCU about every 70,000 miles (120,000 km).
As you say, to avoid any issues with the drive train, you can take the whole prop shaft off – this should give you better fuel economy too.
Thank you very much for your compliments on our site.
Enjoy your Freelander!
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Ive removed my propshaft due too vibration when the engine is under load thought the front of the prop shaft was on the way out due to oil/grease coming out of the front boot(propshaft). but still get a lot of vibration when i accelarate. any idears guys.
Hi Nuggs77,
Apologies for the delay in responding, it has been a bank holiday weekend and we took some time out.
If you are still getting the vibration with the prop shaft removed then you should check your drive shafts as these could be causing it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Have checked the drive shafts both OK no movement, the only thing we have noticed is the bushing at the back of the engine has a lot of movement on it we removed it and found it just fell apart. will replace this in the morning and see if the vibration is still there wish me luck and thank u for your response
regards
jason
Hi Jason,
I hope you have managed to solved the vibration problem now – if not please give us a shout and we will have another think about what it could be.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421