If you are thinking of buying a Land Rover Freelander there are a few things that it is worth checking on any Freelander you are considering.
As with all cars there are certain issues that are common to each particular make, and the Freelander is no exception. To help you to make the right decision with your Freelander purchase we will point out what needs checking with the:
- Freelander Engine;
- Freelander Drive Train;
- Freelander Body.
1. The Freelander Engine
a) Head Gasket
i) In the Service History
One of the primary issues with the 1.8 petrol Freelander is the head gasket. Originally a single layer head gasket was fitted and these tended to blow by 70,000 miles, often quite a bit before this! The first thing you need to find out is if the head gasket has ever been replaced on the vehicle, and if so was a modified multi layer head gasket used. If it is not documented that a modified multi layer head gasket was used then there is a chance that you could face the same problem again within 70,000 miles of the change – don’t assume that if the head gasket was done at a Land Rover dealer then a modified multi layer head gasket will have been used, we have seen them with single layer gaskets after being repaired at a Land Rover dealership.
How much will it cost?
If the head gasket has not been changed, or you have no evidence that a modified multi layer head gasket has been used then you should be budgeting around £545 to have a routine change of the head gasket before it blows – if you wait until it blows you will be spending more than this!
ii) On the Freelander
To check if the head gasket on the Freelander has not already blown, check for oil residue in the water reservoir bottle (left hand side under the bonnet), and take the oil cap off and check if there appears to be any water mixing with the oil.
The other issue that can cause head gasket failure is the water pump or any leakage in the cooling system. Check that there are no signs of a water leak. Be aware that the correct coolant for a Freelander is red, so the water in the water reservoir bottle should look pink.
How much will it cost?
If the head gasket has failed you are looking at £945 for a thorough job to ensure every part that may have been affected by the overheating is dealt with.
b) Cam Belt
i) In the Service History
The 1.8 litre petrol, L series 2.0 litre diesel and 2.5 litre V6 petrol Freelanders all have cam belts that should be replaced at the 72,000 mile service. If the Freelander you are considering buying is close to, or has past this mileage and there is no evidence that the cam belt has been changed then it is highly advisable that you have this done as soon as possible. A snapped cam belt can completely destroy your engine and you will be looking at a complete engine rebuild rather than a routine cam belt change.
How much will it cost?
A routine cam belt change with water pump will cost you £295 for a 1.8 litre petrol Freelander, £395 for an L series 2.0 litre diesel Freelander and £795 for the 2.5 litre V6 petrol Freelander.
ii) On the Freelander
Without taking the cam belt cover off it is difficult to tell if there is wear to the cam belt. If the cam belt has snapped you will certainly know – the car will not go!!
How much will it cost?
If the cam belt on the Freelander has snapped you are probably looking at an engine rebuild. Depending on the damage done you are looking at upwards of £1,495 for a 1.8 petrol Freelander; £1,695 for a 2.0 diesel Freelander; and £2,095 for the 2.5 V6 petrol Freelander – so make sure you change the cam belt in a timely manner!
c) Warning Lights
i) On the Freelander
Warning lights are on the dash for a reason – something is wrong! The main warning lights on most Freelanders are the engine warning light, hill descent control (looks like a car going down hill), the ABS and the traction control light. Please note that the ABS light does not extinguish until you are moving forward (not in reverse) at a certain speed – so as you pull off slowly this light will remain on until you get some speed up.
There are a lot of sensors on a Freelander and often the warning lights are on because of a malfunction on one of the sensors. The only way to know what the problem is is to put the Freelander on a diagnostic machine, and even then it can take a lot of sorting out. Finding the root cause of a warning light being on can be very time consuming and costly.
How much will it cost?
Putting the Freelander on a diagnostic machine will cost around £42. Once you have a diagnosis, sorting the problem out could be a nice simple fix, but it could run into hundreds of pounds and a lot of time!
2. The Freelander Drive Train
a) Viscous Coupling Unit (VCU)
i) In the Service History
The viscous coupling unit (VCU) is a sealed unit on the prop shaft that supports the four wheel drive function of a Freelander. All Freelander 1 models have a viscous coupling unit (unless the prop shaft has been removed, rendering the Freelander a two wheel drive vehicle).
The viscous coupling unit is a sealed unit which contains a viscous fluid. As the viscous fluid becomes thicker it over time the viscous coupling will become stiffer to rotate and this will put a strain on the whole drive train of the Freelander. Hence the viscous coupling unit is an item which should be replaced regularly, at about 70,000 miles. If there is no record of having the viscous coupling replaced and the Freelander you are buying has done 70,000 miles or more then you should be considering replacing this immediately.
How much will it cost?
A reconditioned viscous coupling unit, which has had its viscous fluid replaced, is £270 (add an extra £65 if you replace the bearings at the same time, which is recommended), and fitting is £105.
ii) On the Freelander
Since the viscous coupling unit is a sealed unit it is difficult to know if the viscous fluid has become too thick – it is not like the oil where you can pull out the dipstick and see how it looks. If when you drive the Freelander it feels as if it is holding back or as if the brakes are binding, then this could be the viscous coupling showing excessive signs of wear. It will be especially noticeable when reversing on full lock.
Once the viscous coupling becomes stiff there is a lot of strain put on the whole drive train. If the Freelander is still driven as normal it will eventually damage the IRD unit (transfer box) and the rear differential – then things get really expensive. Generally if you can hear a clunking noise from the front of the vehicle as you go around corners then there is a good chance that there is damage to the IRD.
How much will it cost?
If you are lucky and the only damage that has occurred is to the viscous coupling unit then the cost will be the same as a routine replacement. If, however, it has caused damage to the IRD then you are looking at an extra £650 for a reconditioned IRD unit, plus fitting at £195 – and that is assuming no other damage has been done, so make sure you replace your viscous coupling unit in a timely manner!
b) Differential Centre Bush
i) On the Freelander
Wear to the differential centre bush on the Freelander is something to look out for, although it is not a major item that should stop you purchasing a good vehicle. If you go underneath the Freelander and push the prop shaft at the back by the differential to see how much play it has. If there is a lot of play then it is advisable to get this changed as soon as possible.
How much will it cost?
The differential centre bush and fitting should cost about £80.
3. The Freelander Body
a) Window, Doors and Sunroof
i) On the Freelander
Unfortunately it is quite common on the Freelander to have problems with the windows, doors and sunroof – so check these things.
If the sunroof does not work quite often the best thing to do is to take out the fuse and leave it shut! This way you know you will not end up with a sunroof half open that you just can’t get closed again. If the sunroof on the Freelander does work then make sure you open and close it regularly to stop it ceasing up.
Check that all the doors open and lock on the fob. The first click of the fob will open just the drivers door, the second click should open all the doors including the tailgate one.
Check that all the electric windows work – in some models all windows are electric whereas in others the rear windows are manual. Remember that the tailgate window also goes down, there is a button in the centre front that controls the tailgate window. In addition to this if you press and hold the fob then instead of opening the doors it should bring the tailgate window down. To put the tailgate window back up you need to either put the key in the tailgate door lock, turn and hold it until the window comes up, or use the button inside the Freelander. Do note that the key does not open the tailgate door, this can only be done from the fob, the key is just for controlling the tailgate window.
How much will it cost?
If your windows are not working this will cost around £50 to £80 depending on which window has the problem. If you cannot hear the sound of the motor when you press the button it is worth checking the fuses before going to the expense of getting a garage to look at fixing it.
Fixing the doors of the Freelander will cost you around £50 if a new mechanism is not required. And as for the sunroof – I would just leave it closed!
Hi I recently found out my Freelander could not be connected to a diagnostic machine as the previous owner must of tampered with it. Is it worth getting fixed?
Hi Sarah,
Are you sure it was an issue caused by the previous owner and not just that the diagnostics being used did not have the capability of communicating with your Freelander. What year is it?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
It’s a w reg year 2000. I took it for an early mot and asked them to plug it in as the TC and ABS lights come on randomly. It wouldn’t connect to the diagnostic and when they checked wires were cut. The previous owner turned it into a two wheel drive too. Just wondered if it’s worth paying the money to fix and how much it would cost roughly. Love this car. Passed mot with flying colours. He must live on ?
Hi Sarah,
They are great vehicles, so I’m not suprised you love it.
The biggest issue with the diagnostics port not working is if you get any faults, as you have with the TC and ABS lights, then it can be a very long process to determine the problem without access to the codes which have been generated from the fault. Hence it could be more economical to have the port fixed than to try to determine issues without putting it on diagnostics. When you love the Freelander it is not a case of is it economically viable compared to the value of the car, it is whether it is more economical to run your Freelander with or without this facility, and it is liable to be more economical to have the diagnostics port working.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks sue.
Goc as he’s called is very valuable to me so will need to find a specialist to fix him. I’ve only had the lights come on twice since I treated him to 4 new tyres so hopefully it’s something simple. Thanks for your help xx
It’s a pleasure Sarah, it sounds like Goc has a very good home. We are always here when you need any help.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi there, I have just purchased a Freelander 1 TD4 2002 manual. I am finding that after shifting to 3rd gear, and increasing revs from around 2500rpm, it seems to ‘slip’ – ie the revs go up quickly to about 3500 without the car accelerating much. It seems to catch up and engage eventually, especially after easing off the accelerator. Same sort of thing happens in 4th gear. Deosn’t seem to happen in 1st and 2nd. I can avoid it by changing into 3rd and 4th at slower revs, which is fine in flat areas, not so good on hills and freeways. Any ideas what I need to look into? Many Thanks, Ben
Hi Ben,
This sounds like your clutch slipping, in which case it would need replacing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi I have a freelander 1.8 2002 I took it for a drive tonight and it started joking and I started smelling petrol I only went 4 mile down the road before this happened, I checked water and oil both seem fine as this happened last year when head gasket went but all seem OK, could their be another reason or is it the gasket again? Regards Anita
Jerking sorry
Hi Anita,
If it is smelling of fuel then it is likely it is not burning the fuel which indicates a sensor, injector or coil, something on those lines. The best thing would be to plug it in to diagnostics to see what error codes it brings up. Is there any work you have had done on it recently?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi last year I had the head gasket changed and cam belt, no other serious mechanical faults up until now. I will book the vehicle in for a diagnostic test.
Regards Anita
Hi Anita,
Let us know what the diagnostics say.
All the best,
Sue
Hi . I have a 2003 freelander 2ltr diesel with 146,000 miles . Relatively good service history .
The engine makes a terrible rattle noise below 1200 rpm . If I put the heater on the noise gets worse . Also if I turn the steering wheel the rattle increases . The vehicle still pulls well and has not lost power . A mechanic has replaced the steering pump and pulley belts but has not stopped the noise . ( thanks for nothing) and still charged me for a wrong diagnostics . Please help if possible
Kind regards Christian
Hi Christian,
Sorry to hear about the problems with your Freelander. It sounds like the issue could be your crankshaft pulley, so get this checked out.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello Sue
Thankyou very much for your response , i’ll look into that .
Kind regards
Christian Southcott
Hi I have a td4 premium sports edition on a 53 plate registered in Jan 04 the car has been driving no problems until last couple weeks when it started to judder when driving and idling but more recently the last couple a days as I’ve pulled up to park and a couple a times driving the car has completely shut down and taken a short while to again start back up , have you any suggestions as to what could be causing this to happen many thanks Mark
Hi Mark,
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Freelander. It sounds as though it could be either the fuel rail pressure sensor or associated wiring loom – there is a modified wiring loom for this which is worth having even if it is not responsible for this issue, so this is where it may be best to start – or the low pressure fuel pump.
All the best,
Sue
+44 780 9575 421
Hi I am looking at a used 05 plate freelander 1.8 xei but heard mixed reviews, just wondering if its going to be a lot of problems or should I go for it ?
Hi Mark,
The Freelanders are fantastic vehicles but you do have to understand them. The 1.8 petrol models did have an issue with the original head gaskets being a single layer gasket and not up to the job. If the gasket has been professionally changed to the modified multi-layer gasket you should not have these problems with this again.
An important aspect with the Freelander is to know that the viscous coupling unit (VCU) needs changing every 70,000 miles to avoid damage to the rest of the drive train, and you need to make sure the tyres are all the same make, model, size and tread.
Have you read our article Freelander 1: Is It Really That Bad?, this sums up the issues the Freelander has and how to look after it.
Personally we think they are fantastic vehicles, they are fun, versatile and tough.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi,
I have recently brought a 53 td4 I had it on test drive for over a week everything working perfect.
I then got the pushchair out the boot left the car with my OH who left the window down but all doors shut and car unlocked for about 45mins.
I then went back and couldn’t open the boot I locked and unlocked several times and then went and tried to open the boot window which didn’t work. There’s no locking or unlocking noise from the boot tried the key but nothing. So window and door won’t open.
But the fob is playing up a little today it takes a couple of presses before it will lock/unlock
any ideas?
Thanks
Hi Zoe,
It sounds like no power is getting to the tailgate door. Try removing the door cover and checking for broken wires going to the latch.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello
I have a freelander 2001 2.5 petrol it’s done 85,000 on the clock and nothing has been replaced so I’m aware I need to change a few things
When starting the engine, a heavy white cloud of smoke comes out then dissapeares after 30 seconds. What could cause this?
Also when driving it has developed a vibration between 30 and 60 mph and today I noticed a intermittent clunk in the front and a clunk when I put it into reverse. How can I fix this? Also! The rear passenger brake and driving light was replaced and has gone again in a few weeks, what could cause these things and how much to fix them?
I live in the uk
Thanks
Hello Chris,
Thank you for your enquiry.
The cloud of white smoke could be a number of things, the most common being the piston rings or the valve stem seals, if the smoke smells like oil. If it does not smell like oil and you are not losing oil or water it could just be condensation.
The vibration and clunking sound like the lower tie rod end needs replacing. To replace this you are looking at £103.27.
With regard to the rear passenger brake and driving light going after just a few weeks, this could be condensation on the connectors, it could be worth changing the connector. This would only be a few pounds.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi I have a 05freelander td4 which has developed a whining noise When driving sounds like a wheel bearing but checked them all they seem good also checked prop bearings also good. One thing I have noticed is at around 70mph the noise disappears but is bery noticable above and below that speed. It doesn’t vary round corners or roundabouts it’s just constant. Any suggestions appreciated.thanks
Hi Mark,
Is the whine coming from the front or the rear? If it is from the rear it could be your rear differential, if it is from the front it could be your IRD unit. What mileage have you done? Has the viscous coupling (VCU) been changed? Have you changed any tyres lately? If so, which ones?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue mileage is 48,000 and new tyres fitted all round noise sounds towards front but difficult to pinpoint vcu is fine no dragging or anything like that . Are ird unit bearings prone to going?Thanks again
Hi Mark,
No, the IRD unit bearings do not go without an external cause, which would normally be the VCU but can be the drive shaft or prop shaft CV joint, so it is worth checking these.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi, I’ve got a 2005 freelander 1.8. on the weekend whilst driving the temperature needle shot up to high with the red light on, I pulled over immediately and the fan was going, but on inspection under the bonnet there was not excessive heat, no smells, steam etc… coolant levels fine, oil level fine and about 60secs later when I got back in the car and turned the ignition the needle sat where it should at temperature, just under half way? Confused… any ideas what went wrong? Thanks, Ian
Hi Ian,
If it has behaved itself ever since then it may just have been an electrical glitch or perhaps a sticking thermostat.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
I am interested in a 2004 Td4 with automatic transmission. Please let me know how to solve the following problems and whether it is worth buying this car ;
1. What causes slow engine starting? Its taking several attempts for the engine to start.
2. The owner once used petrol instead of diesel. How is this problem rectified and could it be the reason behind engine starting problem?
3.On the odometer how do I tell whether the readings ( 85150 ) are in miles or in kilometers?
4. The dash board is grey. Which polish do i use to make it look good?
5. Once the sports mode is selected the message centre does not indicate sport. It simply shows ‘ D ‘ even when the car is moving. Whats the problem?
6. The SRS warning light fails to extinguish while the car is being driven. Could this idicate the car had an accident and how can it be solved?
7.The catalytic converter at the back below the load space is sagging. Can it be lifted up?
8. During off road driving the effects of hitting a pot hole is felt on the front right wheel. (The car is a right hand drive ). What should be checked?
9. The owner has been doing service after 6000 km. What should be done here in Kenya so as to do the service after the recommended 20,000km?
10. There is some noise from behind when the car is being driven fast especially when accelerating. Whats the problem and the solution? I have touched the VCU after 5 km and it is cold.
11. The rear right window fails to operate. What needs to be done?
12. How many kilometers per litre should i expect?
13. Where can i get the codes for the radio?
Many thanks.
Solomon.
Hi Solomon,
1. The problem here is generally the glow plugs, one or more injectors or one or more of the fuel pumps.
2. Given it has had petrol in the system it is likely your issues lie with the fuel pumps and the injectors.
3. Generally whichever is the larger figures on the speedometer, km or miles, is what the odometer is measured in.
4. Use an autoglym product, these are generally very effective.
5. It could be a problem with the selector.
6. This is either a problem with a break or loose connection in the wires under the drivers seat or the rotary coupler.
7. You can replace this with an aftermarket catalytic convertor which are flatter.
8. Check the link rod, track rod, D bushes and lower ball joint.
9. The service is dependent on mileage or age, whichever comes first. At 2004 you should be doing an 11 year service this year unless the mileage is over 132,000 miles (220,000 km). If the mileage is above this then do the service every 12,000 miles (20,000 km).
10. If it is a banging then it is likely to be the rear differential centre bush.
11. You will need to change the window regulator.
12. The combined figure is 37 mpg, approximately 13 km per litre.
13. You can get the radio codes from Land Rover if you give them your chassis number.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi have a 2004 Freelander. Just purchased it, great car but there is a problem with the windows. The drivers window opens no problem, the other windows do not from the drivers switch. The passenger window opens on its own switch but the two rear and the tailgate do not open on their switches (or from drivers door) Any advice?
Hi Paul,
Can you hear the motors working on the windows which do not open from their own switches? It is likely an issue with the window regulators for these ones. For the window which opens from its own switch but not from the drivers panel this is likely to be an issue with the wires which go from the drivers panel to the door.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue. No there is no motor noise at all. When I press the tailgate window I get an audible bleep but that’s it. I figured it may be a fuse but I’ve checked them all and they seem fine.
Hi Paul,
For the tailgate window check the switch as it may be this that is faulty.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi, My 2006 freelander keeps losing power for a split second intermittently when driving, it’s been in the garage numerous times but they can’t find the fault, do you know what it could be? Thanks Helen
Hi Helen,
Could you tell us what engine your Freelander has, is the 2 litre TD4 diesel, the 1.8 petrol or the 2.5 V6 petrol?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi, I have a 2002 Freelander. I just wanted to say that it is a great suv, durable, and safety. Until now and yes, all of the problems with this car are the sensors, on/off switch winshel wiper is delay, the window and sunroof motors are broken. I had a transmission replaced at 64-65,000 miles in 2013 and timing belts and water pumpt changed sometime this year. Until now the problem I have is the oil light on dashboard blinking when stalling and will go away when speed up. The oil was running low and just got changed in August. Can anyone please advice before bringing it in to dealer. The diagnose cause is about $115. not sure how much will it cause to fix. Please help!!
Hi again, I miss type cause instead of cost on the previous comment. Sorry, incase you did not understand^. ^
Hi TJW,
We assume your Freelander is the 2.5 litre V6 petrol model. The oil light flashing is liable to be an issue with either the oil light switch or the grade of oil you have used. Worst case scenario it could be the oil pump. Did the oil light only start flashing when you changed the oil?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, thank you for responding back. Yes my Freelander is V6 and no the blinking oil light happened about 2 weeks I has the timing belt replace so I brought it in for the oil service change, the oil use is synthetic 5w30. After I had the sevice, it seemed to be fine and because only travel less than 10 miles to work/day, in about 35-45 mph. That’s why I did not notice the problem. I have been driven it over a month now. At first, I notice that every time on the free way 15 miles away or so, the light will come on blinking on a slowing down and stalling. I thought I might be the sensor at first, and occasionally I would drive a distance of 20 miles one way. Sometimes it would come on sometimes not. But now it has been having this problem even only I have driven it slow for 10-15 minutes in the city. So the problem occurs when it is slowing down and stop. Thank you,
Hi TJW,
Have the timing checked, it sounds like it could be out by a few gears.
All the best,
Sue
+22-780-9575-421
Hi there, firstly let me say what a great site this is and what great advice you offer! i have a freelander1 04 td4 and i love it! I service the engine on a regular basis (oil and filter every 6000, air, pollen, turbo, pcv filters every 12000,) but it has developed a problem! When the engine reaches a certain amount of revs/speed it makes a knocking noise that seems to resonate down the exhaust and the car starts to hold back, and kicks out black smoke, this happens when i am maintaining speed, when im neither accelerating nor decelerating and once it starts it does it at lower speeds /revs. If i stay at low speed/revs the problem doesn’t start. Any advice would be great. Ps. If i accelerate it clears but returns when maintaining.
Hi Pete,
Thank you very much for your kind words on our site.
It is great to hear you love your Freelander, they really are fantastic vehicles. The problem you are having sounds quite unusual, however it is possible these symptoms could be caused by a faulty catalytic convertor, so worth checking this.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue
Got an issue with a freelander 2 2007. Soon as key fob is inserted there is a rattling at the front of the car, sounds like it is coming from behind the front grill. Turns off momentarily when I start the ignition then starts up again. Same happens when i turn the engine off. Any advice would be hugely appreciated!
Thanks
Ross
Hi Ross,
That is a strange issue, not one we have come across before. When you insert the fob in the ignition have somebody check what the fans are doing (they should not come on), and also check what they do when you start the Freelander. Are the fans coming on? Are they catching on anything?
If you switch off the cabin fan before inserting the fob do you still get the noise? Have you tried putting it on diagnostics?
If none of this brings anything up perhaps you can send us a short video so we can get a better idea of what it is doing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Hi, i have the 2006 free lander 2.2 diesel td4 SE. it cuts off completely for a split second while driving and loses total power for that split second sometimes switching off completely and when slowing down at stops it switches off . indicating ” reduced engine performance” on the info screen. What could be the problem as this is an intermittent problem. South Africa
Hi Siva,
These symptoms are generally caused by one of two things, the fuel filter or the intake throttle body. You can try changing the fuel filter and if the symptoms persist change the intake throttle body.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
my wife was driving her 2001 td4 automatic freelander and the engine started revving to 2000revs my wife was doing 50 mph the engine was revving but the motor was going no faster she took her foot right off the throttle and the revs came down she will now only use her motor locally as she is afraid it may break down , I have driven it and your driving along and suddenly the revs pick up but the speed stays the same,
yours
dave
Hi Dave,
The things to check are the throttle position sensor and the turbo.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Sue
many thanks for your prompt reply I will try a throttle sensor first , my wife was in touch with the main landrover dealer and there head service manager had no idea because there are not many freelander automatics here in northern Ireland even though jt was that dealship that sold my wife the motor from new , landrover training I think .
regards
dave
Great Dave, let us know how it goes.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi sue
Tried throttle pedal sensor no joy also changed high pressure sensor motor still reving on its own but no increase in speed 2001 freelander automatic
Hi Dave,
It is possibly a fault with the gearbox or the gearbox solenoids. Test the solenoids first.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello!!! There’s a lady selling a 2000 freelander
I kinda need a car urgent, but she say the car need some work done. I would like to know in your opinion how expensive these fixes can be (approximately)
Here’s her message:
break lines are rusted, sway bar bent, headlights are too dim, and the heat shield for fuel tank is loose (which we JUST replaced the fuel tank cradle so the mechanics must have not put it back on right.) also leak in steering fluid and exhaust written on paper but husband thinks it’s just a bolt loose. said fixes shouldn’t be over $1200. He’s estimating $400-$600.
Hi Kary12,
It is very difficult for us to say how much it would cost in the USA as we operate in the UK and are not aware of the labour charges you would have, however the estimate would sound about right for here. The steering leak could be the clamps on the hoses. It would be more expensive if the headlight issue is due to misted headlights rahter than just the bulbs. The rest of the issues should be fairly straight forward.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue. I have a problem with my freelander 2.0d x reg. On acceleration it has developed a whining or whistle noise which gets louder and louder the faster I go. However if I take my foot off accelerator it stops and doesnt do it when standing still and revving engine. Prop has been removed so ruled vcu out it is still pulling well through all the gears with no slipping? Could it be tensioner as belts have not been done? The noise only comes on between 1900-2500 rpm and if I play with throttle I can almost play a tune as it changes pitch however the harder I accelerate the louder it gets. Please help!!
Hi Ray,
Check the idlers and tensioners. Also check the vanes in the turbo for play.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue. Thanks for you’re reply. The culprit was a missing nut from where the exhaust meets the turbo. A nice easy fix.
On another note do I need a special tool to set the tensioner on the timing belt when changing? I have the parts but have been quoted £200 in labour as been told its a five hour job? I would welcome your input
Thanks for your advice.
You are a diamond.
Hi Ray,
Excellent, nice easy fixes are always great!
For the 2.0TDi you need a pin for the crankshaft and a pin for the injection pump – you can use drill bits so no special tooling required.
To change the timing belt and tensioner and the fuel injection belt and tensioner (you should change both of these at the same time) is a 3 to 4 hour job, so if the mechanic that quoted you 5 hours is not so used to these vehicles it would be reasonable – they are not easy to time correctly!
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue.
Just a quick update. All is well with the Landy your advice was brilliant much appreciated will definately recommend you and come back should I need any further help.
Thanks again.
Ray
Excellent Ray, you are always very welcome.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi sue. I have a frelander td4 year 2004. The vehicle has 70000 km.is new one. My problem is the reverse gear. The mechanic sayd to me has no spare parts.i must finde all gear box only for the reverse gear. I use the car and i push force on revers gear to move back. Also when i not push with force th gear make sound and go out.
Sorry for my english.
Haw can u help me!
Tnx
Hi Leonard,
If you have lost reverse gear it would be easier and cheaper to get a good used gearbox rather than trying to repair the existing box. Unfortunately we do not have a good used gearbox at the moment but you could try Gentlemen of Salvage on +44-1297 553074, http://gentlemenofsalvage.co.uk/.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I have a 2004 freelander se3. Not sure what is going on with it. Idles really rough and when you take off it acts as if it doesn’t want to go until you hit about 30mph and then it starts to run better. Feels like a misfire but I can not tell what cylinder it is. What would cause this. I have replaced several sensor hoping to fix it but still have had no luck. And do you know what the firing order is for 2004 se3?
Hi Brittany,
It sounds as though your problem will be with either a coil or a coil lead. The firing order for the KV6 engine in your Freelander SE3 is 1-6-5-4-3-2.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thank for replying that is alot of help hopefully that fixes it. How can you tell which cylinder are 1, 2, 3 and 4?
Hi Brittany,
When you are facing the engine the front bank, starting from the left hand side, is 1 – 3 – 5, the rear bank, starting from the left hand side, is 2 – 4 – 6.
All the best,
Sue
Just an update sue we replaced the ignition coil on our 04 freelander se3 and it runs amazing now. Check engine light is off and has its power back. There is just one other small problem with our six disk cd changer. It is coming up up with the err cd 3 code. It was working just fine now it says there are no cds in it, but it is full any ideas how to fix this problem? Again thank you so much for all your help.
Hi Sue looks like a great informative site!
I bought a 2005 TD4 Sport 3 door last week and there is no oil leaks, has a prop shaft in place all windows and seals working well and the Vdc looks like new as well as a replacement clutch!!
I have noticed a little black smoke from the exhaust when revved and while driving a slight hold back in power at times on the motorway at constant speed although it does lift well. On inspection I noticed a small slit of a hole underneath the large rubber tube to the left of the engine and it is slit were it meets a screw. Could this be the problem and would you suggest a service and a replacement of all filters?
Thanks in advance!!
David
Hi David,
Thank you for your kind words on our site and congratulations on your purchase.
The split (provided it is a split which goes all the way through, rather than a scuffed surface) could certainly cause the symptoms you describe.
If you do not have any service history then it is certainly worth having a full service done. If you have service history but the last service does not explicitly state the crankcase breather filter had been changed then at the very least I would get this done – some generalist garages do not realise this filter exists and hence do not change it, and if it gets blocked it will suffocate the engine.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Brittany,
I thought I had responded to your previous message but I cannot see your response so, just in case, I will respond again.
Great news your Freelander is running amazing now.
With regard to the CD player, try resetting it, this usually does the trick. I cannot give you the instructions to do this as different systems have different procedures, so check your user manual.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi, my 05 2.0 TD4 is blowing a large amount of white smoke at first startup lasting for about 20 seconds. Additionally, during the initial start up the engine idles really bad and produces bone shaking engine vibration. I have approached my local mechanic who has said that it is likely to be an injector but this will involve removing the injectors and sending them away of inspection. I have also tried injector cleaner recently, as advised, but without any success. This has been occurring consistently, during cold start up, for about 3 months but my local mechanic recommends just keep driving. Look forward to any assistance or advice you can offer!!
Hi Steve,
This does sound like it could be one or more of the injectors. A quick test to determine which, if any, of the injectors are causing a problem is to unplug the wire from each of the injectors one at a time whilst the engine is running. If there is no change in the way the engine runs then you know that injector has a problem.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks, I will give this a try at the weekend and let you know how It goes. Will it cause any further damage to continue driving with a leaking injector?
Hi Steve,
It is not advisable to drive too far with a leaking injector as ultimately it will not do any good, but there should not be any immediate damage.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
thanks sue thats my problem subframe loose at front mount rear drivers side no cracking of chassis bolt tight unable to tighten or undo any suggestions thaks martin great site
Hi Martin,
A common problem I’m afraid. Good news is it is an easy fix, just a bit of welding and it will be as good as new – should not cost more than £50.
So pleased you have found our site useful.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi All,
Nice site full of info you got here 🙂 bonus that youre in Norfolk too, i’m on the coast at GY
I’m just about to take the plunge on an Orange 2007 2.2 Td4 HSE 80k on the clock
what should I make sure has been done?
Cheers
Steve
Hi Steve,
Thank you for your kind comments. How is GY, warmer than Norfolk I imagine.
Congratulations on your decision to purchase a Freelander 2, 2.2. At 80k, other than the alternating A and B services, you should have seen the brake fluid being changed at 45k or 3 years, whichever came sooner. Be aware that the next service (90k) will require the brake fluid to be changed again as well as the flexible brake hoses.
When test driving listen out for any unusual noises, particularly anything that may sound a little like a wheel bearing coming from the rear. This would most likely be the rear differential. If the rear differential is whining you are looking at £750 for the reconditioning and fitting.
Generally these vehicles are very reliable and are great both on and off road. If there are any quirky electrical issues fitting a second earth strap can often solve the problems.
Best of luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
re rear subframe welding wish i lived near you up north quoting min 4 hours £200/£300 pounds to do job may try hire welder and have a go myself thanks martin
Wow Martin, that is expensive. It certainly does not take that long for somebody who knows what they are doing. We do not do welding ourselves, but when we have a customer with this issue we take it to our local welder and stand and wait for it, usually 30 mins to 1 hour max.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
sue update finally got subframe welded up 2.5 hours £75 cost of job got a back street mechanic to do it rather than big garage hope thats end of my problems thanks for all your advice and great forum site thanks martin
Excellent news Martin, it took a long time but the price is much more reasonable than your previous estimates.
You can enjoy now!
Sue
0780 9575 421
2001 td4 how do you know turbo is working properly/ i have driven other vechiles and usually feel turbo respond// not overloaded about 1 ton/ had caravan on plus 2 vintag mowers/ seems sluggish fully serviced turbo vent replaced/ may just be me /car ok runs fine thanks martin
Hi Martin,
You should be able to feel the turbo kick in with a surge forward at between 1,900 and 2,200 rpm. To check it you can also rev up the Freelander and see if the intercooler pipes expand.
If the turbo seems to be working try unplugging the MAF and see if this makes any difference. If it does then you might want to consider changing the Bosch MAF for the Pierburg MAF and Ron Box which are very effective and can give more power or fuel economy depending on which settings you use on them.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Martin,
If the turbo is working you should feel it surge forward between 1,900 and 2,200 rpm.
You could also check by revving the Freelander up and seeing if the intercooler pipes expand.
If the turbo is working correctly try disconnecting the MAF to see if this makes any difference. If it does then you may want to consider changing the Bosch MAF for the Pierburg MAF and Ron Box – these can give you better responsiveness and / or fuel efficiency depending on which settings you put them at – definitely worth the little extra from the cost of a replacement Bosch MAF.
All the best,
sue
+44-780-9575-421
where is maf censor
where are intercooler pipes
what are prices
Hi Martin,
The MAF sensor is on the air intake duct for the turbo (on the rear of the camshaft cover).
The intercooler pipes are the two large black pipes which are not coolant hoses.
What did you want the prices of?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
the maf sensor
Hi Martin,
The Pierburg MAF with Ron Box and a dashboard switch is £270 plus VAT (£324).
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Im Mandie Im looking to buy a freelander 2L diesel but when I had it at idle there was a rattling noise but as soon as I put the clutch in it went away and The car would also pull away in 3rd gear is this normal please
Hi Mandie,
This is likely to be the release bearing in the gearbox. Unfortunately to replace this you need to remove the gearbox, hence can be a good idea to replace the clutch at the same time. Worth checking the dual mass flywheel at the same time. So if you do buy it factor this into the price – not a cheap fix I’m afraid.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi thank you so much for that as I had a bad feeling it was something not good the guy was trying to say it just been where it seen standing for just over a week but I may be a women but im not stupid so thanks again Mandie 🙂
Hi maddie…these freelanders are a money pit.best go for a estate..been looking at freelanders…ird boxes..vco joints…need be replaced at 70k…500 quid a go..the prob u said…new clutch..dual mass flywheel..1200 quid..not worth it
Hi John im gona leave that on well alone now 🙂
Very wise…i had about 7k to spend but to be honest ..money pit..so ive gone for a skoda octavia diesel…58 mpg..freelander..30 local…max 40 on run….tax on freelander..286 year..i was looking at freelander 2…do not touch freelander 1..thats upto 55 plate..
Im looking at a 2001 Y 2l TD4 ES AUTOMATIC full service history 152k very good condition only thing the sunroof been sealed now as it stopped working
Hi Mandie,
I must admit if you are not bothered about the sunroof it is usually best to remove the fuse and leave them closed if they are playing up. If the sunroof is important to you then try getting a good used one from the Dismantlers (new ones are pretty expensive), but once you have it working make sure you open it regularly as lack of use is often the reason for the failure.
If you are any where near us (IP26 4RH) we have a beautiful TD4 coming up for sale.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
This td4 for sale…details please an price..
Can pay cash or on debit card…cheers
Hi John,
It is a 52 plate TD4 in black with cream leather interior. It has front spot lights, light guards and roof rails. Lovely looking Freelander in fantastic condition (some body marks commensurate with age). Price £2,995.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi..cheers..whats mileage sue..any pics and warranty ..cheers john
Hi John,
Mileage is 118,000 miles. We do not have any pictures as it is not yet up for sale – it’s a looker though! If you are interested I will see if I can get some photos for you in the next few days.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
It’s a pleasure Mandie. I hope you manage to find the right Freelander soon, they are great vehicles when they are looked after properly.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Iv got my self a lovely Y reg one this morning went to see it the other day went over it all that was wrong with it was sunroof it is 2001 Y LANDROVER FREELANDER TD4 ES AUTOMATIC picking it up tues 🙂
Fantastic Mandie, congratulations. From the way you have obviously been reading up about them it is going to be a well cared for Freelander – have fun!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue im picking the freelander up tomorrow and i was gona book it in to have the timing belt checked but been told the that my 2001 Y reg diesel 2L TD4 has a chain is this correct please
Hi Mandie,
Congratulations, you must be excited.
That is correct, the TD4 has a timing chain not a belt, so you do not need to worry about this. With the TD4 just make sure the crankcase breather filter has been changed.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue,, ive brought a 2002 td4 .2.0l….freelander..72k…..1 owner..the garage has voluntered to replaice the propshaft fluid joint..vcu..on basis it comes with a 3 month warranty and its in there interest..now the car drives fantastic..super smooth …question i have is clutch bites about a thied from the top..on my laguna that swys plenty life in clutch ..but ive heard a few say it should bite soon after a fully depressed clutch is released…your view please…john
Hi John,
That does seem a bit high up although it is very difficult to tell as different makes of clutches will have different biting points.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
back again sue 2001 freelander td4 3door on drivers side back have a klicking noise not all the time replaced all diff mounts taken prop off jacked up wheel and it klicks when wheels rocked backward and forward but noise sounds to be coming from chassis/ diesel tank area all suspension joints good and drive shafts ok wheel bearings ok sounds like a rachtet klicking pass something any ideas hopefully this is my last problem thanks martin
Hi Martin,
This sounds like an issue with the bolt on the rear subframe to the chassis. Welding this should sort the problem out.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi im john.. was about to buy a 2003 td4 2l but after reading how unreliable and cost of repairs im keeping well away…even car reliability chart slates them.
the fact that 1.8 petrol needs head gasket doing because ..quote the single layer is not upto the job is terrible and should be paid for by the maker.
it seems not asingle part of this car is failsafe
sorry but not good enough
john
Hi John,
I must admit I am in agreement with you that Land Rover should have replaced the head gaskets for the multi layer gaskets. However, generally the Freelander is a fantastic vehicle. It is very capable and if you understand the vehicle it is very reliable. Most cars have some issues which are common to the particular model, and the Freelander is no different. Many of the issues you hear about though are down to not being given the information required to look after them properly, such as changing the viscous coupling every 70,000 miles etc.
We can certainly respect your decision not to purchase one as I am sure you also respect the many owners who love their Freelanders.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi …shame freelanders are not as good as this site…ide have 2….best site ive seen.
Question…if you remove Propshaft and make it a 2 wheel drive…does it still need the ird or transfer box or does it run solely from twofront drive shafts …does running it as a 2 wheel drive improve mpg…still tempted as its ideal for fishing and camping gear ..but that 700 quid ird box a worry plus the coupling at 400 quid fitted.
Cheers…brill site well done
Hi John,
Thank you for your kind comments.
If you remove the prop shaft you do still need the IRD to be in situ. However, if no damage has occurred to the IRD from the VCU you should not get any problems with it when the prop shaft is removed.
Removing the prop shaft and running it in front wheel drive does improve mpg as there is quite a lot of weight and resistance you have removed.
Without the prop shaft you get rid of the worry of the VCU and IRD. They are brilliant vehicles and we are always here for any advice.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I got a fright of my day when I heard that left for a long time, there would be some issues to the Freelander. I have a 2.5L petrol 2002 freelander and spend 8 weeks away from home – so most of the time I leave it parked with handbrake on.
Just recently when I came back for my short 3 weeks leave, I tried to start the vehicle but failed. I thought it was the battery. I tried like 6 times. I never had this problem before as the vehicle would start for the first try. Yesterday, I tried a heard a sort of a click. Not even the starter engaging. After a third try, it went on. Is that related to the same issue you indicated to one of the commentators? Or fuel quality? Lubricant? I am due for next service in 5,000 kms but have done around 2,000 is more than a year. Any advice?
Kind regards,
Lefranc
What a wonderful site this is, thanks so much for providing it!
I have recently bought a freelander 1 1.8 and all is well, a great car! However, I am moving it to my second home soon, where I will leave it in the garage of a building for up to two months at a time between visits. How do you suggest I do this without causing problems? I used to do this with an old vw golf, I would disconnect the battery, reconnect it on my return, no problems! However, this car has more electrics than I am used to. Will this same method have issues, eg with the odometer, Central locking or things like that? I know I may have to do something with the keycode form the radio, I have that code just in case. But grateful for any tips you might have to stop the car seizing up. Thanks!
Hi Matthew,
Thank you for your kind words on our site, we are pleased you are finding it useful.
Disconnecting the battery is certainly a good idea. It should not cause any issues and you will just need to enter the radio code and reset the clock when you reconnect it.
An important thing to do is to make sure the hand brake if OFF when you park it. If you leave the hand brake on you are likely to find the rear wheels seized when you return.
If you are not going to use the Freelander for many miles it is worth doing an interim oil change between services to keep it in tip top condition.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
i have had my 2001 freelander td4 a couple of month the passenger door lock only unlocks if you reach over and do it manually wont unlock on fob locks ok/ drivers door tailgate work ok great site thanks for advice getting minor problems sorted with your advise
Hi Martin,
This will be an issue with the door latch – £63.02 + VAT, or if you are in our area (IP26 4RH) we can repair it for £50.
Good to hear you have found the site useful.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi is the Freelander XEI 2..0 di bonnet the same as aLAND ROVER FREELANDER GS 1.8 01 REG BONNET thank you colin
Hi Colin,
Yes, both the bonnets are the same.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
thank you very much sue great news
Hi Sue
I am looking to buy a Freelander TD4S 5 door 100k on the clock, says it has air con, i thought the S was an entry model with no air con ? 2005 plate.
Many thanks Chris
Hi Chris,
The entry level for a 2005 is an E model, which has driver and passenger airbags, ABS and EBD, ETC and HDC, single disc CD double DIN and 6 speakers, 15″ steel wheels, cloth seats (ES Premium style), front mud flaps, green tinted glass, and 5 seats. The S is the next level up, which also has air conditioning, loadspace cover, alloy wheels 195×15 Adventurer (x4) (steel spare) and illuminated vanity mirror. The S was the entry level for earlier models.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for the reassurance Sue. I have found this site very helpful and will be checking the service history before committing to buying for, the VCU replacement, Tyre’s and leakage in boot along with the electrics to the back window. What was the significance of pink coolant ?
Best wishes
Chris
Hi Chris,
The pink (red) coolant has OAT (organic acid technology) which is much better for the engines and ensures they do not rust the head gaskets from the inside.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
my name is patrick. I’m a volvo main dealer MEC. I have been toying with the idea of get myself a freelander diesel. Need a jeep. I have a good budget £2000-£6000. My question is the td4 or a good low milage fsh rover 1999cc. Ive read all your freelander comments. My v70 1999 volvo has 480000 miles and going good 12 years of ownership. As you see i like to keep my vehicles for the long haul. Will the perkins/rover or the bmw engine last the test of time? Do you think. Patrick from ireland
Hi Patrick,
If you are good at looking after your vehicles, as you obviously are, then either engine will last. We have one of the BMW engines on 470,000 miles. The Rover engine is noisier, a bit more agricultural, than the BMW engine, but is more forgiving for those who do not take such great care of them. The BMW engine has more to go wrong on them but they are certainly good solid engines. I don’t think you can go far wrong with either of these.
All the best,
Sue
+44 780 9575 421
hi, I have just purchased a 2000 Freelander XEI 2 previous owners ,all seems great with it , drove it home after purchasing it reverse parking it on a slope ,stalled it went to restart it pushed in the starter button and the whole button went into the dash I retrieve the components reinstalled it all but now nothing happens when I turn key and push the button, any suggestions as to what may be the problem before I visit a garage!! thank you …….
Hi Chris,
We have never seen a Freelander 1, which yours must be if it is a year 2000, with a push start button, they all start on the key, could it be an aftermarket fitted button?
If nothing at all happens when you try to start it try wiggling the small wire which goes into the starter motor, this can often come loose and causes the Freelander not to start.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
thankyou, will give it a wiggle and let you know how it goes, Chris
hi I have a 2003 1.8 petrol it starts first but when you drive it seems to be sluggish up to 50 mph after this it speeds up a bit its as if its holding back it drives lovely apart from this
Hi Anthony,
It sounds like an issue with dirt in the fuel canister. The fuel canister is in the fuel tank located under the rear drivers seat. Remove the canister and clean the mesh filter inside it – hopefully this will cure your problem.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
i have a freelander td4 ,2004 ,manual ,diesel estate .lovely to drive but i get water in the boot .the seals round the door seems fine and the window closes fine .the well where the jack is kept is where i get the puddle .any ideas please
Hi Jenny,
It is actually an issue with the tailgate door seal, and a common issue! They have now developed an uprated door seal which stops this from happening – it is not cheap though, you are looking at about £300 for the parts and fitting. The other alternative is to drill a hole in the bottom of the jack compartment so the water drains away (a little cheaper option!)
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, I have recently purchased a freelander td4, it is making a loud noise when I accelerate. Like a ambulance siren is approaching. Took it to a garage and they said I need to replace the propshaft bearings, would these cause this noise?
Hi Emily,
Yes, it could be the prop shaft bearings. What mileage has the Freelander done? If it has done over 70,000 miles and you have not changed the viscous coupling unit (VCU) then this will also need changing and the bearings going will be your early warning sign that the VCU is stiffening up.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
It has done 129000 miles and came without any service history as previous owner had lost it.
There is a good chance the VCU has not been replaced then as it is not part of any service schedule. If the VCU bearings have gone this is likely to be because of a strain from the VCU itself. When you turn on full lock, particularly in reverse, does it feel a bit “tight”, a little like the brakes are on?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi,
many thanks for providing such expert support and having read through it I have a question.
I have bought a 1998 XeDi Freelander 1 with 104K miles on it.
Service history is poor and no idea if VCU was changed at 70K miles.
When I go round right hand corners I too get a more or less of a knocking sound from the front nearside of the car depending on my speed, its not a clunking noise and I think it sounds like a CV joint rather than an IRD, although this may be wishful thinking of course!
I have tried the 2 suggested tests
1. Reversed with full lock on and it doesn’t feel like the brakes are on,
and
2. the VCU isn’t getting hot after a couple of miles.
Would I be right in thinking that if I pass the 2 tests above its unlikely that the VCU is faulty and as such unlikely to have damaged the IRD / Drivetrain. Therefore the knocking is likely to be CV and not the IRD unit.
I am already starting to accept I need to change the VCU.
Thanks
Andy
Hi Andy,
Congratulations on your purchase, you have bought a great model, the L-Series diesel Freelander engines are very reliable.
A knocking sound when turning a corner tends to be an indicator for issues with the IRD / transfer box.
It can sometimes be difficult to notice the holding back on corners, so do not assume this means all is fine.
The VCU not heating up means your tyres are not causing you an issue, it does not mean your VCU is in good condition overall.
With no evidence of the VCU being changed we would recommend you change it, or leave the prop shaft off, it is rare for it to have been changed when there is no service history of it being done.
If you want to check your IRD unit try draining a bit of the oil from it and checking for metal bits in the oil.
The problem is the VCU can do such catastrophic damage it generally is not worth risking leaving it beyond the 70,000 miles.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I have a 2003 Land rover Freelander. It have over 100.000 miles on it. It was making a knocking sound in the right turns. It seems to have a rumble feeling from the bottom. Later the knocking sound started coming from everywhere. To avoid the knocking, I was driving it carefully by letting it go slowly without pressing the accelerator. It has now been parked for 3 months. I was starting it everyday to let it run a while. After not starting it for about a week, it now won’t start. It has a high pitched sound in the engine when try to start it. I hooked it up to a battery charger for hours and it still won’t start. The radio and lights are strong but it won’t start. I will be ready to get it back on the road as I am saving some money to get it fixed. I’m sharing my son’s car. He is a teen and always has some place to go so I am not so independent anymore. Please help.
Hi Rose,
Which engine does your Freelander have? Is it a 1.8 petrol, a 2.5 V6 petrol or a 2.0 diesel?
Have you ever changed the viscous coupling unit (VCU)? This is the bulbous piece half way along the prop shaft. If this has not been changed it is highly likely, at 100,000 miles, that this has damaged your drivetrain and your IRD has been knocking. You would need to have your IRD reconditioned and your VCU changed or left off to sort this problem out. The rest of the drive train would need checking to ensure no other damage has occurred.
With regard to your Freelander not starting, is it trying to crank at all? If not, try wriggling the small wire which goes into the starter motor, it is possible this has come loose.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I am looking to buy a car and have seen a 2003 53reg freelander Serengeti se 1.8 petrol which looks really nice.The price is £675 and has done 69,000 miles.I am not much clued up with cars and was wondering what I should ask about it or what to look out for.Your help would be much appreciated.thanks
Hi Colin,
The Freelanders are great vehicles, I’m sure if you get it you will love it.
The things you need to check are:
1. Has the head gasket ever been replaced? If it has not then budget for doing it, the original head gaskets were a single layer gasket which will blow at some point. We would charge £545 to do a standard head gasket replacement. It is cheaper to get it replaced BEFORE it blows rather than wait for it to blow and cause other damage.
2. If the head gasket has been replaced do they know if a modified multi layer head gasket has been used? If it was replaced by another single layer head gasket refer to point 1.
3. Be aware, at 69,000 miles you are about due to replace the viscous coupling unit (VCU). These should be replaced about every 70,000 miles to avoid damage to the rest of the drive train. To replace the VCU with a reconditioned VCU, genuine Land Rover bearings (the cheap ones are not worth fitting!) and fitting is £560. (Make sure the Freelander has the prop shaft fitted, it is amazing how many people have sold Freelanders without the prop shaft and it becomes very expensive to source all the parts required to put it back to four wheel drive.)
4. Check that all four tyres are the same make, model, size and appear to have been fitted at the same time. If there is a mismatch in tyres this will need addressing as it can cause damage to the drive train.
5. Check that the coolant in the system is red (looks pink) and not green or blue. If green or blue coolant is being used you will need to drain this out, flush the system and replace it with red coolant.
6. When test driving the Freelander listen for any unusual clonks, knocks etc. Some can be minor issues whereas others can signify major issues. If there is an unusual noise listen for the type of sound, roughly where it appears to be coming from (front, back, centre, right, left etc.) and when it happens (on changing gear, acceleration, braking etc.), then come back to us and we may be able to identify the issue for you.
7. Check all the electrics, particularly windows, central locking and sunroof. If it does have a sunroof which does not work be prepared to take the fuse out and pretend you don’t have one!
These are the main issues to check for on the 1.8 petrol Freelander. If there is anything which concerns you when you go to test drive it just let us know and we will try to identify whether you should be concerned or not.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for the help will be in touch if I need anymore help
hi Sue, will it be okay to use gasket sealing fluid such as blue devil as a precaution after 78000 kms ?
Hi Rahul,
No,no,no,no, please DO NOT do this. The problem is this can block some of the small pipes. particularly things like the oil coolers, and cause massive damage.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi I wonder if you can help me, I have a landrover freelander petrol 54 plate.. The prop shaft has been banging for sometime I took it too the garage after calling the aa who said it was the baring… The garage where I’ve took it said he would change both barings for £120 including labour and vat… Then he contacted me and said the part between the barings was loose when I asked what it was called he said he didn’t know later getting a txt from him saying in these words “it’s the doughnut or summit cheapest I’ve found so far is 400+vat” am I right to sence some lies does this sound about right?? Thank you so much for any help you can possibly give.
Hi Nicola, Sue I’m sure will correct me if I’m wrong, I have had the same problem myself, Banging noise pulling away from 1st or 2nd, It was only the rear diff centre mount and 2 propshaft bearings needing replacing, Local mechanic done it for £80 (Cornwall)
Hi again Nicola,
Chris is correct (thank you Chris) that a banging when pulling away in gear is a symptom of the rear differential centre bush needing changing. As Chris says that is just an £80 job. However the banging, if not just when pulling off, could be the VCU damper, so if you have done over 70,000 miles and not changed it you will need to.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Nicola,
The item he is talking about is the viscous coupling unit (VCU), it is the heart of the four wheel drive system. The VCU’s need replacing about every 70,000 miles before you start risking damage to the rest of your drive train. So if your Freelander has done over 70,000 and you have no evidence the VCU has been changed we would strongly recommend you change it. What is probably banging in your case is the damper on the VCU (this comes with the VCU unit). If the bearings and the damper have gone it sounds as though it is the tightening of the VCU which is causing the damage so changing it or leaving the prop shaft off is crucial. He would also need to check no damage has been done to the IRD or the rear differential whilst he has the prop shaft off.
If the £120 quoted included the bearings, fitting and VAT the bearings which he will be supplying will be aftermarket bearings. Please be aware that most of these are not very good and often go again within a few months. We would recommend either GKN (£140 for a pair but unfortunately are difficult to get at the moment) or genuine Land Rover bearings (£180 for the pair).
We can supply a reconditioned VCU for £275 including VAT or a new VCU for £395 including VAT – NEVER fit a used VCU unless you can be sure of the mileage it has done. We can ship these or fit them for you.
Where are you located?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, My name is colin. Have a freelander td4 04 plate, which i picked up at auction, problem is on start up from cold heavy white smoke till warm then no problem, no water leaking, engine oil clean no overheating any sugestions THANKS
Hi Colin,
Try changing the glowe plugs, that should solve it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, Thanks for the suggestion about changing the glow plugs, got away with a tin of injector cleaner, will keep in contact. CHEERS from colin
To all td4 owners I recently had problems with engine cutting out but when mechanic connected laptop no faults showing it has also cut out on the motorway bit frightening. So I started to investigate myself the solution is a bit expensive but works first discard egg valve and fit a blank then fit the new BMW crank breather filter then replace air filter with the k&n air filter which is reusable you just wash it I also changed the oil and filter and use only castrol magnatec oil it helps keep engine clean the result is no more engine cutting out as its breathing better more miles per gallon and quicker acceleration most competent diyers should be able to do all this at home good luck to all and smooth motoring. Tony
Good advice Tony, thank you.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi my name is Chris, Could you tell me which tpms sensor i need for a 2005 td4 sport, 433 or 315 mhz? Many thanks in advance.
Hi Chris,
My apologies for the delay in responding. The Freelander 1 does not have a tyre pressure monitoring system, only the Freelander 2 (2006 on) has this system, which is 433 mhz.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks very much sue, I asked because on my last mot certificate it was an advisory that tyre pressure monitoring system was faulty, Maybe they meant abs sensor? I was confused.
That is very strange, because there is no system for the Freelander 1, no wonder you were confused. As you say, perhaps they meant the ABS sensor.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hie my name is Vie. I have a 2000 freelander v6 petrol and my problem with it is when its changing to gear number two there is a disturbing sound( goo sound) it is jumpy. I really don’t know how to explain it, it is really scary. What could be the problem. Thanks
Hi Vie,
This sounds as though it could be a problem with one or more of the solenoids in the auto gearbox.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks Sue. If we want it fixed how best should we go about it.
Hi Vie,
If you would like to bring it to us we can sort it out for you. It is quite a long job but it can be completed within a day.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi, I have an X reg Td4 which seems to run great even with 188k on the clock. the only problem is with the drivers electric window. i have seen relulators on ebay and feel confident about doing this repair myself. when pressing the window button i’m not hearing and sound from the motor (with door card removed)
do you think i need a regulator with a new motor fitted to it.?
thanks in advance, andy
Hi Andy,
Unless you are looking at using one of the repair kits for the window (which require a lot of patience!!) then the window regulator will come with the motor. Before you buy a new window regulator have you checked the problem is not just the fuse?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, thanks for replying,
I have checked and all the window fuses are okay (no breaks in them)
on ebay I have seen regulator repair kits which are really just the cables for around £15, then replacement regulator for around £30, then replacement regulator with motor for £40.
I think to be safe I’ll go for the £40 option.
£40 for a complete window regulator is a very good price. It certainly would be the safest option.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a Freelander 2 petrol, year 2006. When the car is idling with the air conditioning on the fan noise becomes very loud until the air conditioning is turned off. If I do not turn the air con off, the engine over heating light comes on and the gauge goes to maximum heat. Once the engine is turned off and I wait for 10 minutes to gauge goes to normal and all seems fine – until the next time! When the car is moving all is fine. As at today I turn the air con off when idling but this is very inconvenient especially as we live in Spain for much of the year and it’s very warm out here! The local Land Rover dealer in Spain scratch their heads in bewilderment and the UK dealerships I call don’t know what the problem is, only asking me to bring the car in – not easy as I’m in Spain until Christmas. Can anyone help with advice please – especially if you consider it important enough to have it looked at urgently rather than wait until I’m next in the UK….pretty worried right now
Hi Andrew,
Is your Freelander the Freelander 2, 3.2 litre petrol model, the Freelander 2.5 litre V6 petrol model or the 1.8 petrol model?
It sounds as though you possibly have a faulty thermostat. When the fans are running does the bottom radiator hose get cold? If so then the thermostat is switching off and you should get it changed sooner rather than later.
The air conditioning (A/C) fan should be coming on and off intermittently. if this is not happening it could be a problem with the A/C relay.
Also check if the coolant is bubbling in your header tank (and whether you have any hairline cracks around the neck of the header tank), if so, try changing the header tank and cap – only use genuine Land Rover parts for this, the aftermarket ones are not very good.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi
This site is amazing! I am looking at a 2004 Freelander TD4 diesel 2.0 at the weekend – I’ve read all the posts and have thoroughly confused myself about what to look for! I know cambelt at 70000 but what else? (Current mileage 100,000)
Thanks
Emma
Hi Emma,
Thank you, we are so pleased you like the site.
There is no cambelt on the TD4 Freelander, it is a timing chain, so you do not need to worry about that.
There are three main things you need to consider on the TD4 Freelander:
1. If it has done over 70,000 miles, has the viscous coupling unit (VCU) been changed. If it has not then you need to budget for changing it as past 70,000 miles you are risking damage to the rest of the drive train. Depending on whether you opt for a new or a reconditioned VCU you will be looking at in the region of £500 – £700. If it has done over 70,000 miles and has not had the VCU changed check for any strange noises coming from underneath as you drive. Also try reversing on full lock, if it hold back on you a lot, a little like the brakes are on, you would be best to have the drive train checked before you purchase it as it may have been put under excessive strain already and damage could have occurred.
2. Check the tyres. Are they all the same make, type and size? Were they all replaced at the same time? If you can, take it for a test drive then go underneath and check the temperature of the VCU (the bulbous piece half way along the prop shaft). Be careful, it could be hot. If it is too hot to hold your hand on comfortably then there is a mismatch in the tyres and the tyres would need changing as a matter of urgency. Really, if the VCU is getting too hot to hold your hand on, you should walk away from the Freelander as the VCU has been compromised and it may have done damage to other parts of the drive train.
3. Check the service record. If it has been serviced by a Land Rover specialist then you should not have any problems. If it has been serviced by a generalist garage try to find out if the crank case breather filter was changed at the last service. If it was not, or you are at all unsure, budget for getting it changed as soon as possible – circa £80. Some garages do not realise this filter exists and hence do not change it. If it does not get changed regularly it can suffocate the engine.
I hope this helps. If you have any questions after you have seen the Freelander please ask away.
Freelanders’ are brilliant vehicles, best of luck, when you get one I’m sure you’ll love it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks so much Sue – this is really helpful
Thanks
Emma
Hi Sue
Me again sorry – I was just wondering if you could advise me on the differences between a 2002 (Old shape) TD4 and a 2004/05 TD4 – as I am finding both for similar prices and mileage although the 2002’s are slightly cheaper – so I am trying to work out if they are worth looking at?
Thanks again
Emma
Hi Emma,
Fundamentally they are both the same, some slight mechanical differences, such as the location of fuel pumps etc., but the primary difference is the shape. They have exactly the same engine and drive train system.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi there, i blew the head gasket on my 2003 TD 4 Freelander, at the same time i did damage to the turbo as well. I have had the head gasket replaced, turbo reconditioned, head skimmed top and bottom and new valve stems (i think). Im not that mechanically minded, but thats what the mechanic said. After 400 kms the head gasket blew again?? The temperature gauge displayed a normal reading and if it wasn’t for me monitoring the water level and checking the dipstick a lot more damage would have been done im sure. Why did the head gasket blow again after only 400kms? I see in your comments that a red coolant/anti freeze must be used? Please note that i live in South Africa and my Freelander has been fitted with the BMW 320 turbo diesel motor by the agents here.
Any reason as to why this has occurred?
Hi Antony,
It is not common for a TD4 to blow the head gasket at all. What are the symptoms you are getting that make you think the head gasket has gone? Is your Freelander mixing oil with water? Have you checked the oil cooler to oil filter housing gasket?
Yes, you should be using the red coolant if at all possible, although the TD4’s are more robust than the petrol models.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I have a problem in starting my TD4 2003 Freelander. Garage checked it and replaced the in line fuel pump. This did not solve the problem. They checked the injectors and said that one of the injectors may need replaced at some point but felt that this was not the issue. They showed me a photograph of the injectors. Can you shed any further light on to the problem.?
Many thanks
Chris
Hi Chris,
Could you please give us a little more information on the problem you are having with your Freelander. When you say it has a problem starting does it take a long time to start? does it refuse to start? does it crank? is the problem only when it is cold / hot? With a little more information hopefully we will be able to help you.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for coming back to me. Two problems really.
1. Difficult to start in that it usually takes 3 or 4 turns of the key before it starts even then not a positive start
2. Then for the first few miles the engine does not idle smoothly ( a bit like as if it was running on 3 cylinders, then after this it is ok.
However just a few days ago it was loosing power on acceleration and the engine was trembling as if on 2 cylinders. Just about started after about 12 turns of the key.
Hope this helps you.
Look forward to your teply
Hi Chris,
The things you need to check are:
1. the fuel rail pressure sensor – there is an uprated wiring harness for this which is worth changing at the same time.
2. The low pressure fuel pump.
3. The glow plugs.
You should find the problem is with one or more of these.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Sue. Will follow this up
Chris
Hi Sue
I have a 2003 5 door TD4 with sunroof.
Sunroof has rusted through and is letting in water. how much would a replacement sunroof cost?
Thanks
Liam
Hi Liam,
For a new sunroof you are looking at £695 including VAT for the part alone. The other option is to get a second hand sunroof, not something we have at the moment I’m afraid, but would be easy enough to get from eBay.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks…I’ll check it out
Liam
Hello ,looking to buy a freelander 1999 ,the selber has had the gasket replaced and recommends to have the starter motor fixed /replaced. How much could this cost us ?
It’s done 100.000 miles and is a 1.8 petrol.
Hello Natalie,
To replace the starter motor with a new one will be £210 including parts, labour and VAT. If we replace it with a good used unit it would be £100. If the Freelander has done 100,000 check if the viscous coupling unit (VCU) has been replaced. If it has not then we would strongly recommend you replace this or remove the prop shaft and run in front wheel drive to avoid damage to the drive train.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I’ve owned one n never again, head gasket VCU, clutch, bearings the list goes on buy a Toyota rav or a proper LANDROVER a defender
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with your Freelander. This is why we have tried to put plenty of information on our website, as many of the issues owners have with their Freelander’s are avoidable if they are given good advice on how to maintain their Freelander.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
It is such a shame as it is a lovely car, inside and out and in excellent condition with fsh (which I understand doesn’t mean much!) They have offered a 12 month warranty on both parts and labour in this price but I am still concerned. Can you send me the spec on yours via email and do you take p/ex? And where are you based? Thanks. Julie
Hi, I am about to buy a 1.8se 04 petrol freelander but have been shocked at the numerous bad reviews online. I am now seriously thinking of not proceeding with it and losing my deposit. It does drive fine, no noises or lights but it has done £71k miles, no head gasket repair and no Vcu repair – from your comments, it would seem that it is inevitable that both must be fixed before serious problems occur – is this the case that all of these models will fail, regardless? I really don’t want to pay £3500 for it and then have to spend loads more just for piece of mind – any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks and great site by the way
Hi Julie,
The Freelander’s are fantastic vehicles, and certainly worth owning. However you have totally understood the issues.
With the 1.8 Freelander their original head gasket was a single layer and not really up to the job. Once this is replaced with a multi layer head gasket you no longer have the issue. At 71,000 miles it is just a matter of time I’m afraid, it could possibly last until 100,000 miles, but it is cheaper to replace it before it goes rather than after, as it can cause other damage once it has blown.
With the VCU this is a replaceable part, although not on the service schedule it should be replaced about every 70,000 miles to avoid any damage to the rest of the drive train. Again, it could last 100,000 miles but in our experience past 70,000 miles you are living on borrowed time.
So you would be looking at over £1,000 extra to get the head gasket and the VCU changed, and we would strongly recommend doing this.
For the same money as your 04 plate we do have a 54 plate Freelander 1.8 which has had the head gasket changed and has just had the VCU replaced if you were interested.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue, I have until Friday to decide 🙁 it’s a shame because it is in excellent condition, inside and out, not a mark anywhere and fsh although this doesn’t seem to mean a lot apparently! the price does include a 12 month warranty on all parts and labour but I am still unsure. can you let me have the spec on the one you are selling and do you offer any warranty? And do you p/ex cars? And where are you based? Thanks Julie
Hi Sue.
i have just bought a 02 freelander and within 2 days the aircon stopped working,i have replaced the fuse but still nothing.worried there might be a bigger problem lurking in the back round.also what could be the problem ?
Regards
William
Hi William,
Is it that it is not switching or or not getting cold? If it is not getting cold it may have run out of gas. The best thing is to take it to an air conditioning specialist, we tend not to deal with the air conditioning systems I’m afraid, as they are better handled by a specialist.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
It will not turn on
It could be the motor if changing the fuse did not help. Pop it into an air con specialist and they should be able to pinpoint it fairly quickly.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a 2004 petrol v6 freelander and the external temperature display/ gauge has disappeared from the instrument panel. Can you advise how i can reset it to get it back please?
Also also whenever i fill up at the petrol station it takes about 3 minutes for me to be able to restart the vehicle. What would cause this please?
Regards
Dave
Hi Dave,
Where are you located? Where on the Freelander instrument panel do you see the external temperature? This is not something which is normally displayed on the instrument panel in Europe.
With regard to restarting your Freelander after refuelling it could be an issue with the fuel pump or filter. Do you stop filling the Freelander at the first click from the pump or do you continue filling after this?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
The freelander was built for the american market but ended up in Spain. The temp was always displayed and you could change it from F to C if desired. It has disappeared off the panel. As regards the petrol in Spain its dispensed by the attendant and in values of 10 euros so the fill until the desired euro value is met. Any idea why it wont start until 3 mins after you have tried to start from refuelling? Thanks Dave
Hi Dave,
To solve the problem with starting after refuelling try cleaning the fuel canister pick-up filter. If this does not solve the problem it may be an issue with the fuel pump itself.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, this is Roy from Singapore and I own a 2005 1.8 Freelander. The fan goes into overdrive and is extremely loud when the aircon is on. After I turned off the aircon, the fan does not come on and car seems to drive normally. Temp at all times with the aircon on or off is normal at 12 o’clock position. The loud fan when aircon is on is driving me bonkers as I am worried the engine might be overheating although the temp is normal according to the instrument guage. I had a look under the bonnet and the bottom fan (smaller one) does not seem to be working? Can you let me know what is the likely problem?
I just noticed also that my coolant is green in colour and not red. Will this damage my engine? There seems to be some coolant loss but I can’t be sure.
Lastly, there was a loud clunking sound from the passenger side yesterday when I was driving and becomes even louder when I brake. The sound disappeared today but I am worried there might be an issue with my brakes or drive train?
Please let me know possible solutions, thanks!
Hi Roy,
The fan is designed to come on when you turn the air conditioning on but it should not be extremely loud. It is possible that you have an issue with the air conditioning regulator switch.
There are two fans on the Freelander, the cooling fan and the air conditioning fan. When the air conditioning is on then one fan will be operating, and when cooling both of them will turn. To get the fans to kick in for cooling purposes (i.e. to check the fans) you would need to leave the car idling for 30 minutes or more. Alternatively unplug the coolant temperature switch and both fans should come on.
Yes, you need to flush the green coolant out and replace it with red. Green coolant can damage your engine by corroding the head gasket.
The loud clunking sound could be an issue with your brakes so check these. Has your VCU been changed? If you have done over 70,000 miles make sure you get this changed to avoid damage to the drive train.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Freelander TD4 , have recently had drivers side cv joint changed due to clunking, and now have lights on on the dashboard, hilldescent, abs, traction control, what is the reason for this?
Hi Lucie,
It could be that the wheel speed sensor got damaged during the repair, or has dirt on it making it not read properly.
It could also be the brake light switch located under the brake pedal – are your brake lights working? The other possibility is a loose connection or a breaks in the wires under the gear stick boot.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I got this error on rand rover freelander 2:
“Engine running at reduced performance” and engine very noisy. What does this mean? How can it be fixed?
Hi Kama,
If the engine is running noisy then you have a mechanical fault rather than an electrical fault. It has been known for the flaps of the inlet manifold to collapse and fall into the engine, this could mean you will require a replacement engine. Does it sound as though it is running on three cylinders?
If yiou would like us to take a look at it you are welcome to bring it to us.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello,
I bought a 2005 Auto TD this year. The steering wheel has recently started shaking at around 30mph. Is there a problem with the steering or with the tyres? Also I’m getting the car ready for winter, I’ve never used the yellow downhill button before, can I try it out before it snows to make sure it works or do I have to wait for bad weather? Anything else I need to do to get the car ready for winter?
Hi Lorna,
With regard to the shaking it is worth checking the drive shafts for excessive play.
The yellow button is a hill descent control button, you can try it whenever you have a steep hill, it works in 1st and reverse gear. It is not something you would use very often, only in extreme steep conditions.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue, were looking to buy a freelander 1999 1.8 xei, were just wanting a run around, the seller states it doesnt start with the key but bump starts and also it is stuck in 4wd should we stay away? Its reasonably cheap and i know a few mechanics who can fix bits and bobs?
Hi Emma,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
The fact the Freelander will not start on the key could be the ignition switch or the cable to the starter. This should not be a big problem.
The Freelander is permanent four wheel drive, it is operated with a viscous coupling unit that transfers drive to the rear wheels when one of the wheels slips. Hence it is unclear why they would say it is stuck in four wheel drive. Be aware however that the viscous coupling unit should be replaced about every 70,000 miles to avoid damage tot hte rest of the drive train.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
03 freelander v6 I have a clunk sound coming from under my feet from front when I go over bumpy roads I think it may br the rear control arm bushing but when I jack it up and move things around nothing seems to have play but driving over bumps is very loud any ideas?
Hi Nolan,
If it is the rear control arm bushing you would not be able to see it shake unless you dismantle it.
Check the lower tie rod end (lower engine mount). Jack it up, remove the undercover and shake the engine, you should be able to see the lower tie rod end moving if it is a problem.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thinking about buying a v6 2002 vintage. But I hear the auto boxes are fragile. – is this correct? I need a freelander which is as reliable as possible. Which first generation model would you recommend?
Hi Gavin,
The manuals are more robust than the autos. One issue with the autos is that there is a reverse gear plug which is sometimes undone by mistake, thinking it is the oil level check plug, This then causes the gearbox to lose reverse gear and require reconditioning. We have had a number of the gearboxes requiring one or more replacement solenoids.
The Freelander we see the least of is the L-series diesel (pre 2001), all of these are manual and they have less sensors than the TD4, V6 and 1.8 models. They are a little more “old school” diesel, but are reliable.
The V6 tends to be better with the drive train, the auto gearbox seems to give the VCU a longer life span, so for owners who do not know to change the VCU if they have a V6 they do not tend to do the damage the other models do. With a V6 you need to keep a close eye on the coolant level and if it starts losing coolant get it sorted out quickly. Often this can be a cracked thermostat housing, but if it is ignored it will result in a head gasket issue.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi,
i have been looking at purchasing a 2004 Freelander HSE with the 2.5 V6 engine and approx. 73K miles. The vehicle itself seems to be in great condition. However, researching problems on the internet is turning up quite a few horror stories about cooling system failures that eventually lead to engine failures. Several quotes basically say “not if, but when” you will have an engine failure of the 2.5L model sold here in the United States. Any ideas on the actual failure rates? Is this a case of a relatively low failure rate resulting in a lot of bad press, or is an engine failure more likely than not? Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve,
With the Freelander 2.5 V6 it certainly is not the case of when it fails rather than if. The “not if, but when” does apply to a great extent to the 1.8 petrol Freelander as the original head gasket was not really up to the job, and if it was not replaced by the modified multi-layer head gasket it would fail at around 70,000 miles. The 2.5 V6 petrol is a totally different case. One of the biggest problems with the V6 Freelander is the thermostat which is situated in the V of the engine, and hence is subjected to the intense heat of the engine. Being in a plastic housing means the housing tends to crack and leak. If it is not noticed that the Freelander is losing coolant then eventually it will blow the head gasket, and potentially eventually the whole engine. If, however, it is caught early, then it is just a case of changing the thermostat. Unlike the issue with the 1.8 Freelander it is by no means definite that the thermostat on the 2.5 V6 will ever give you a problem. If it is of great concern it is possible to change the thermostat housing to a metal housing, which makes it much more robust.
The most important thing with the Freelander is to keep a regular eye on the coolant and oil levels and if you see it using more than usual get it looked at before it becomes a much bigger issue. If you look after the engines it will last and last.
Do remember that the viscous coupling unit on a Freelander should be changed about every 70,000 miles to avoid any possible damage to the rest of the drive train.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I have a Freelander Xei (1.8 Petrol) year 2000. I have a problem of something like fuel starvation or vaporisation . My normal running is of journeys of no more than 20 miles/30 minutes between engine switch-offs and I have no apparent problems , running seems to be normal . If however I make a journey involving running for around one hour or longer and which involves higher continuous running speeds in the 65-75mph bracket , without stopping or switching the engine off ,the car will without warning die as if running out of fuel . No warning lights show and the engine is not overheating. Lights are not affected .Everything is as if it has stalled . I then have to pull over and halt the car and switch off the ignition . If I then wait about 5 minutes I am then able to re-start the car as if nothing had happened and continue the journey , the car running normally . The fault will then re-occur relatively soon after , followed by the same procedure , until end of journey. I have had the crankshaft sensor replaced but this has not solved the problem . Your advice would be very welcome.
Hi David,
This sounds like a problem with dirt in the wire mesh in your fuel canister. If you clean the mesh filter this should solve your problems.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
A little while ago I asked how many hours it should take to replace a head gasket in my 2003 KV6 Freelander. You indicated 6-8hrs by a professional used to doing it. If the oil pump gasket was replaced, oil sump removed and radiator removed for flushing (by a radiator specialist) all these done at the same time, what would be a reasonable total time to expect?
Hi Ed,
Adding all of this on could put another 6 hours on – please note, Nobert is not good at estimating times and Land Rover times are always under estimated!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Many thanks Sue, and I really appreciate your advice. I am getting closer to locating the cause of the abnormal cooling fan operation in my 2003 V6 petrol Freelander. Autologic diagnostics was absolutely useless for identifying the fault in my age of vehicle. I now think Test book 4 may have been better. The workshop manual states that the ECM adjusts the fan speeds using inputs from the ECT, A/C and EAT ECU (Electronic Automatic Transmission ECU). I have been told that this last input source is disabled and not required in our country (New Zealand) as it is only used in hot regions of the world. Is this correct? Do Freelanders in the UK have EAT ECU’s installed that communicate to the ECM as the workshop manual describes?
Hi Ed,
Yes, any automatic Freelander has an EAT ECU.
The automatic transmission has a temperature sensor which sends a message to the ECM about the temperature of the ATF. Combine the temperature for the ATF and the ECT (which are sent to the ECM), and the fan is adjusted according to these readings. When the air conditioning is on the fan is adjusted by the ECM to maintain the cold temperature.
If the Freelander is automatic then the EAT ECU reading to the ECM is not disabled.
The EAT is located in the ECM engine compartment, hence it will be connected.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello again Sue. When the new head gasket was fitted in my 2003 V6 Freelander recently, the radiator was removed and work done on it that I did not request. It had previously been removed and serviced twice before in the last two years. I am now aware that it may have been removed to fit new seals that had been displaced during an excessive vacuum bleed. Do you vacuum bleed cooling systems? and How common is this problem with this method of bleeding?
Hi Ed,
No, we do not vacuum bleed the V6 cooling system. We would not, however, have thought there should be any problem in vacuum bleeding the system.
All the best,
Sue
hello , I have a 07 freelander 2 should the rear wheels splay outward at the base please
Hi Lloyd,
No, the rear wheels should not splay outward a at the base. Check your rear suspension.
All the best?
Sue
0780 9575 421
hello sue thank you for advice my freelander is going in to landrover workshop on Thursday and I will let you know the outcome lloyd
hello sue, landrover main agents service manager say that all the freelanders have their rear wheels splayed out at the base , so what can we do. lloyd
Hi Lloyd,
Are your tyres wearing on the sides?
All the best,
Sue
About rear door disconnect battery for 30 sec reconnect window will go down let it then with button put it up and down door will open
Hi, we have just recently purchased an 07 plate Freelander 2. all was fantastic until earlier this week, a fault has shown on the dashboard… the dashboard is showing the fault sign for the Terrain response system with the message “Terrain response system faulty” none of the little lights are on by the dial to switch the system to “snow,Mud etc” and when you switch on the ignition to start it gives two beeps before showing the fault message .it then tells me the “terrain response system is normal before going back to the fault message.
we bought a warranty for a year so the warranty company recommended us to take it to Halford auto repairs to do a diagnostic,.. have done that but they could not find any fault on the computer and recommended i take it to a landrover dealer as their diagnostics would be able to find the problem, before i go splashing tons of cash… any idea what the fault may be?
Hi Graham,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
This sounds like an issue with the Haldex pump sticking. You would need to replace the Haldex pump.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Freelander 2004 tdi hse on moving gear lever to side or when changing into gear a metal on metal sound only occurs when in motion no problem going into gear just this sound when lever moved
Hi David,
Check the gear linkages if it is just a metal on metal rather than a gear crunching sound.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Yes metal on metal doesn’t happen when cars running and stopped or when
Engine is reved car has 67500 on clock new cutch fitted by landrover at 56k
Purchased a used 2003 freelander about a week ago. Haven’t driven it much yet as we aren’t sure of all the past service / history. What should we check so we can be certain it is good to go? It has a little over 97,000 miles, and is the 2.5 v6. It drove home fine the day of purchase and also around town for rather short trips. We just are new to land rovers and not sure what may or may not need checking at this point. Thanks.
Hi Teresa,
Congratulations on your purchase!
The main things to check are:
– the Freelander has red coolant NOT green or blue, if it is not red, flush the system and replace with red;
– there are no hairline cracks around the neck of the coolant reservoir bottle, if so get the bottle and the cap replaced for genuine Land Rover ones (do not use after market, we have had a lot of trouble with them in the past) ;
– check that all tyres are the same make, model and size and appear to have been changed at the same time;
– check the tyres are not causing issues with the VCU or rear differential. Take the Freelander for a few miles drive, when you get back get underneath and touch the VCU and rear differential (be careful, these can be very hot). If either of these is too hot to hold your hand on comfortably then you have a problem with mismatched tyres.
– check if you have any history of the VCU being changed. If there is no history then at 97,000 miles you should think about getting it changed (although the V6 VCU’s do not wear as much as the other models). The best way to check if it appears to have a problem is by reversing on full lock; if it appears to be holding back on you, a little like the brakes are on, then get the VCU changed;
– Do you know if the timing belts have been changed? This should have been done at 72,000 miles.
I hope this helps. The main thing is to go out and enjoy your Freelander, I’m sure you’ll have loads of fun!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a 2003 freelander v6 I originally had the engine management light on during a long journey had it plugged in came up with misfire cylinder 3 changed the coil pack, it was fine for 15 mins dwn the road then the fault came bk with misfire cylinder 1 replaced that coil misfire remained present cleared the diagnostic faults and cylinder 1 returned, so I checked the compressions in cylinder 1 came up with 150 psi (normal) so naturally I turned to the injector I swapped injector 1 with 3 to see if it moved the fault, it did but it came up with misfire cylinder 6 whilst displaying the fault code for misfire cylinder 1?? any ideas would be appreciated
Hi Jay,
What we would recommend you try is to clear all the fault codes. Take the Freelander for a drive then plug in diagnostics and view the misfires in live data, then you should be able to pick up which cylinder is misfiring.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Sounds like someone’s had problems with the drive train then they have removed the prop n sold it on to u, very dishonest 🙁
Hi – I have a Tdi Freelander and bought it as a 4 wheel drive.
Upon closer inspection, it has no prop-shaft. Does this mean its now a 2 wheel drive and it is safe to use?
Also, any advice about how to remove the propshaft would be good. Could this have been stolen from under my car?
And the rear diff is leaking too now. I have been advised that’s its quite safe to drive it locally like this as a temporary measure, is that right?
So many questions. I apologise!
Thank you for any help.
Hi Julie,
Yes, if there is no prop shaft on your Freelander then it is running in front wheel drive only. It is perfectly safe to drive it like this.
The prop shaft is a very heavy item so although it is just bolted on it would take about 30 minutes to remove and is a big weight and very bulky to transport, so we would not expect it to be stolen. In fact, we have not really known one ever to have been stolen.
If the rear diff is leaking then you really need to get the seal replaced, if it is leaking from the front seal you are looking at about £80 to replace it. Providing you check there is an adequate amount of oil in the rear diff you will be safe to drive it, however if you do not know how much oil is in there it could be safer not to.
I hope this helps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have recently bought a 2005 Freelander 2 Litre Automatic Diesel with 60 K Miles on the Clock.
The coolant reservoir was a bit low so I topped it up with Green Coolant bought at a filling station, I did not know at the time to only use the pink coolant.
Will there be any consequences, can I remedy this.
Secondly though it was serviced at 45 K miles it was not with a LandRover dealer any suggestions.
Lastly can fit it with 16 0r 17 Inch alloys, the ones on it are 15 inch
Hello Dr Singh,
Congratulations on your purchase.
Fortunately the TD4 Freelanders are not as sensitive to the coolant issue as the petrol models are, so a short time with green coolant should not do it any irreparable harm. What you should do now is have the system flushed of the green coolant and refilled with the pink / red which has OAT technology.
With regard to the non Land Rover service, check if the receipt state that the crank case breather filter has been changed. If it is not clear then you could be as well to replace this filter, as not replacing them in a timely manner can cause the engine to be suffocated.
You can change your alloys to 16 or 17 inch alloys. Ensure that the alloys you purchase are for the later Freelander 1 – if there is a one or two digit number embossed in the centre of the wheels then these will be the correct ones for your Freelander; if there is no number then they are for the earlier Freelanders.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I’ve had two head gaskets
3 water pumps
3 manifold gaskets
A new clutch
Header bottle
IRD o ring
3 rocker gaskets
2 oil crank seals
Master cylinder
And now looks like my VCU is on its way 2004 1.8 XEI I also get a burning water smell after 10 miles n my temp gauge is ok my engine is hot as hell, I get a burning clutch smell sometimes when reversing in my garage though no signs of clutch wear any help pls
Hi Michelle,
A few questions:
Are you losing any coolant?
Is the bottom radiator hose getting hot?
When the engine is hot is the coolant bubbling in the coolant reservoir?
Do you have any dampness / traces of coolant inside the Freelander in the passenger footwell?
Has the engine ever been changed or is it the same engine which has had two head gasket replacements? When they replaced the head gaskets did they check the cylinder liners for signs or cracks or if they had sunk? If the cylinder liners have cracked you should see some white smoke from the exhaust.
With regard to the VCU, if you have done over 70,000 miles since it has been changed then we would strongly recommend it is changed. They are a bit like the cam belt, should be on a service schedule at around 70,000 miles as after this time you risk damage to the rest of your drive train which becomes very expensive.
If you have no signs of an issue with your clutch it could be worth checking the burning smell is not the brake callipers seizing.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I own a 2003 2.5 petrol freelander. I have just been through my second head gasket failure over two engines and have spent a lot of money trying to identify the cause of the overheating episodes. Just about everything within the cooling system has been flushed, checked, tested or replaced and most done more than once to locate a cause for the HGF, without success. I am now finding fans on high (not screaming) during a long trip and they will not slow or turn off unless you turn the key off. Temp gauge, coolant level normal, upper and lower radiator pipes hot to hold(not touch), no warning lights on. Is this normal or could there be a problem with the electronic system? Your advice would be appreciated.
PS: Our country requirements do not require us to have the thermostat monitoring sensor in the lower pipe and I have replaced the sensor in the block.
Hi Ed,
How hot was the external temperature during your trip? Did you have the sitcom on?
If it was very hot and you had the air conditioning on then this could be normal behaviour.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Outside temp was 15 degrees C. Air con was not on. Windscreen demisting was also not being used (I actually disconnected the auto air con connection from this after the first overheat in the first engine, thinking that this was overloading the engine). There were only two adults in the vehicle it was not overloaded and I was not towing anything. We had travelled over hill country but had covered 40-50km on flat road after the hill country. Our speed ranged from 60kph-110kph and probably averaged 90kph. The travelling was all on a rural sealed state highway and not off-road. Under normal travelling I would have expected to arrive at our destinations with the fans only on low. I did another trip yesterday to try an replicate the high fan operation. This was open highway travelling with some hill country. After two thirds the way through the journey (approx. 100km) the fans were on high and stayed on high all the way home. The last part of the journey covered 40km flat road. My speed was 100kph all the way and the vehicle was unloaded and not towing. Outside temp was 16 degrees C. I left the vehicle idling for 5mins after arriving home and the fans did not change speed until I turned the key off when they stopped altogether. I immediately turned the key back on and the fans did not come on again. During the trip I periodically stopped to check the fans. When they were on high the upper radiator hose was warm to hot to hold and the lower one was cold to warm.
Regards, Ed
Hi Ed,
There are two main things which this may be, the first is a fault with the thermostat, and the second is a fault with the cooling fan control unit on the radiator. Worth checking these out.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Many thanks Sue,
I presume you suspect the thermostat may not be opening when it should be. Before it was fitted to the engine I tested the thermostat three times in boiling water using a digital probe thermometer and each time it started opening at 87 degrees C. I note that the workshop manual indicates opening at around 88 degrees C. I shall now focus on the electronic controller on the radiator with an auto electrician. On another topic, how many labour hours is usual for removing and replacing a head gasket in my model freelander?
Regards, Ed
Hi Ed,
We would appreciate it if you could let us know if the problem is with the cooling fan control unit.
To replace the head gasket on a 2.5 V6 Freelander you are looking at 6 – 8 hours by a professional who is used to these vehicles.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Will do Sue,
I note your recommendations to stick to the red OAT ethylene glycol (no methanol) in our petrol Freelanders and report that my service garage who specialises in Land Rover has been filling mine with a green glycol called Amtex Heavy Duty. I contacted a technical advisor in the company that manufactures this glycol and he informed me that it is a hybrid OAT (HOAT) and performs similarly. I actually contacted this company to find out what additives were in the Amtex glycol as the garage had fitted a copper pipe in the upper radiator hose to replace an in-line thermostat that they trialled and was too cold. I not only thought they had fitted the thermostat into the wrong hose but I was alarmed that copper in association with aluminium was inviting electrolysis. The Amtex representative assured me there were adequate additives in their glycol to prevent electrolysis from occurring. Do you still think I should change back to the red OAT glycol?
Hi Ed,
Personally we would recommend you change your coolant to the red OAT glycol. HOAT coolants typically mix an OAT with a traditional inhibitor, such as silicates or phosphates. It would be better to use a pure OAT coolant.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
In regard to checking the cooling fan ECU, I today had a scan done using the Omnitec hand held diagnostic scanner. It could not actually read the ECU as such but relayed the coolant temp as indicated by the ECT sensor (which is brand new) and a voltage reading which decreased as temp increased. With the vehicle idling, the coolant temperature rose to 105 degrees C. before the fans switched on and they only ran on low at this temp. According to the workshop manual these fans should have kicked in at 90 degrees C. and be up to maximum speed at 102 degrees C. A further check of the top and bottom hoses using an infrared digital thermometer also confirmed temps over 100 degrees C. before the fans kicked in. Is there any diagnostic scanner that you are aware of that can communicate directly with the 2003 Freelander ECU to indicate a problem or test run the fans? I am aware there is already one available (Hanotec) that can do this for later models but not the 2003 model. Is the scan I have done sufficient to confirm that it is the ECU that is malfunctioning?
Hi Ed,
In our experience the fans on the V6 do not come on until 105 degrees, both the one for the cooling system and the one for the air conditioning. Also, when they come on at 105 degrees they come on low, and only come on fast if it raises to about 108 degrees. When the fans come on at 105 the temperature should drop to 90 – 95 degrees with the fans on. The fans will then shut off and come back on at about 103 – 105 degrees. So it sounds as though your fans are coming on normally. What is happening to the temperature after the fans have come on?
Check your wiring to the ECT sensor for damage.
Autologic and TestBook 4 diagnostics are the best in the market for this type of diagnostics.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I note that the workshop manual states the ECM not the radiator ECU adjusts fan speed through input from the TMS, AC system and the transmission ECU. So the lower temps I quoted would obviously be read at the bottom hose by the TMS which would be lower than in the block. The manual only mentions input to the ECM from the ECT sensor whilst in the power down mode to turn fans back on again after shutdown. However, as I do not live in a North American State I do not have the luxury of the TMS and only presume that correct programming has been done to allow non NAS vehicles to get adequate communication between the ECT sensor and the EMS in the absence of the TMS, hence the higher temps 106 degrees C (fans on low) to 115 degrees C. (fans on max) at the block. My garage assures me there is no way the ECT sensor wiring was damaged. So we did another scan with the Omnitec. I drove 25km on open highway to the garage. On arrival fans were off but I left vehicle running. By the time the scanner was plugged in and operating, the fans started at 105-106 degrees C. The temp dropped to 103-104 and fans stopped. The temp increased to 106 degrees and fans started again and stayed on low. Temp then dropped to 90-93 degrees, fans stayed on. Temp then maintained 90-96 degrees with fans on low (5-8minutes). I then took the vehicle for a 15km open highway run and returned to the garage. I left it idling and did not reconnect the scanner. Fans remained on low. I shut the engine down but left the key on, fans ran on low for about five minutes and then turned off. Later that day I took the vehicle on the same (over 100km) open road trip I did a week ago. On arrival home the fans were almost screaming, in fact my wife commented on how noisy my vehicle was when I arrived home. I considered they were one level off screaming as if in an extremely overheated situation. Top pipe was warm to hot, bottom pipe was cool. I left the vehicle idling. After 5-7minutes the fans dropped to low speed then one fan increased slightly then dropped back to low. Upper hose was warm to hot, lower hose was cool to warm. After a further two minutes idling top hose was hot to touch, bottom hose was hot to hold. Fans stayed on low speed. I then shut the engine down but left the key on, fans remained on low speed. After 5 minutes or so the fans stopped completely. Now, a lot of this sounds normal to me but the high fan speed after open highway travelling at 110kph in ambient 15-16 degrees C temperature, unloaded, seems abnormal. I am pleased now however, to see the fans actually slowing and turning off automatically. Due to the significant variation in fan operation, I have now booked it in for an autologic diagnostic scan next week. The owner of this landrover garage commented that he has never found a failed radiator ECU yet.
Regards, Ed
Hi Ed,
It does sound pretty normal apart from the screaming of the fans – although even this is nor unheard of. Have you tried changing your expansion tank cap? (If you do make sure you use the Land Rover ones and not an after market one).
Please let us know what Autologic comes up with.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Yes I replaced the original one at the time of the first overheat and first engine with a good conditioned second hand 2004 model tank and new cap. On this second engine I have replaced it with a brand new 2004 model tank and cap. Unsure if it was aftermarket though. Also we were able to set up a pressure test in situ and it was releasing around 14-15psi which according to the manual is correct. At the time of fans running very high, coolant level had risen from max level to just above the centre line of the tank, which I would have thought was normal. Prior to all overheats and when the vehicle was running well the fans never came on high unless the vehicle was under heavy load (fully loaded, towing, or during summer with A/C on). In the test runs I have recently done the vehicle was unloaded and had travelled 40-50km after easy hill country highway at 110kph. Even if the fans were required to be on over the hill country, I would have expected them to have shut down to low on the long flat highway travelling at high speed.
Regards,
Ed
Hi Sue,
The Autologic test did not find fault with the radiator ECU. I am a little concerned about this test as the scanner was set on the 2001 model and I was not given any report of the readout. I presume the scanner operates on a vehicles model series rather than the actual year of its manufacture. Do you use this diagnostic tool and can you scan a 2003 model Freelander by using the 2001 model data? The expansion tank cap I had was changed and there is a difference. Even though I pressure tested the old cap (cold) and it performed okay it must not be able to maintain sufficient pressure once hot. I compared the two caps and the only difference was the 110kpa on the old cap was in smaller print than on the new cap. All the other information on the inside of the cap seemed to be similar. So I am unable to confirm if the old cap was an aftermarket one or not.
Regards,
Ed
Hi Ed,
We use Verus rather than Autologic, however we would always use the same year as the vehicle, so I would have expected them to scan on a 2003 model.
Good to hear the cap seems to have made a difference.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
I see you are getting a few enquiries from owners of the 2003 V6 petrol Freelander exactly like my one and I feel I need to keep you updated with how I am going. I originally thought the change of my old expansion tank cap to the landrover cap may have remedied the incorrect operation of the fans but unfortunately it did not. However, while I was doing a test run with the old cap (just to see if there was a difference in caps) the old one failed before my eyes which I could not believe. Fans were not on. Vehicle was idling after a 80km highway including hill country run and coolant was overflowing from the expansion tank. I had this old cap in the back of the vehicle for about 4 days prior to testing it, so it may have dried out but I am unsure if that caused it to fail. I was very pleased I had the landrover cap there.
Back to the incorrect fan operation. The autologic scan did not detect a fault with the fans even-though the test was conducted at the very time they were operating incorrectly. The Autologic agent and the garage service technician both believe the problem was fixed by fitting a new cap. This is certainly not the case and I haven’t ruled out possible damage to ECT sensor wiring as you suggested. I have since purchased an infrared digital gun thermometer to measure the cooling temperatures at the pipes where I had previously been feeling by hand. I would like to email to you a spread-sheet of the monitoring I have done on trips to show what I believe to be faulty operation of the fans. How can I send this information to you for your comment?
Regards,
Ed
Hi Ed,
The failure of the aftermarket cap does not surprise me at all, we have had big problems with these caps and will not touch them now.
You can email a spreadsheet to me at sue@freelanderspecialist.com.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
My Freelander 2 56 plate – 2.2HSE has a knock on the steering when you rock the steering wheel more so when it is cold. I tiok it bk to the garage and said something about fluid and this is normal (it dosent seem normal to me) any advice? Thanks
Hi Joe,
No, this is not really normal, I think it is something to do with the fluid needing flushing out, but I will have to check with Nobert who is not available at the moment. I should be able to give you more details on Thursday.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Joe,
Just found the technical service bulletin regarding your issue with the steering on your Freelander 2. The bulletin number is LTB00272v3. The problem is caused by weld splatter contamination in the steering gear piston tube at manufacture. To correct it you will need to flush the power steering system and renew the reservoir to clear the contamination. If this does not fix the issue then you will also need a new steering gear.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Just got a 02 Freelander and am outfitting for winter in Fairbanks Alaska. We regularly drop to -40C in the coldest parts of winter and have local adaptations to permit vehicles to continue to operate. In my checking the Freelander factory spec engine oil is synthetic and we normally run 0W40 Mobile1 synthetic all year – any problems with that?
Second, I prefer to run synthetics in the transmission, transfer case (where applicable) and differentials that are rated to use at -40C; any recommendations on that?
Third, most vehicles here have engine block heaters installed so when the vehicle is parked it can be plugged in to an outlet available in many parking lots. Is there a preferred way to do that on a Freelander?
Lastly, how much will the VDU viscous fluid thicken up at low temps and is this a potential problem? We already have a common ‘Flat Tire Syndrome’ at -40C where some brands of tires deform due to vehicle weight after sitting overnight and don’t immediately return to round making for a bit of a bumpy ride – will the VDU bind up more at low temps or wear out more quickly?
Thanks,
Craig
Hi Craig,
My profound apologies for the delay in responding, somehow your message was not brought to my attention.
Congratulations on your purchase. Could you let me know which engine your Freelander has then we will be happy to help you, as the oil is different for the different engines.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi
please help, our 99’freelander 2.0 diesel struggle to start first thing in the mornings (smoke), but no start ploblems during the day. We replaced glow-pluggs,installed non-returned valve and a new battery.
Hi Heln,
Have you had the cam belt changed lately?
How many of the glow plugs did you change, 3 or all 4?
Have you checked the injectors?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi all
Firstly I am really pleased I found your site. I would have gone in blind buying my first Freelander. I will be looking at what seems to be an immaculate 2000 1.8 ES. It has 80k on the clock and according to the dealer it has just had a full service including the cam belt. am I correct in saying that I need to check if it has had the head gasket changed and to the multi layered one? Is there anything I have missed? Thanks in advance and thank you for a great forum.
Hi Matt,
Congratulations on your decision to buy are Freelander, they are such great vehicles I’m sure you are going to love it.
Yes, you need to check it has had the head gasket changed to the modified multi layer one. Also make sure the coolant in it is red and not green or blue.
At 80,000 miles you also need to check if the viscous coupling unit (VCU) has been changed – it is not part of the service schedule so having full service history will not tell you this. The VCU’s are generally good for about 70,000 miles before you need to replace them with a new or reconditioned unit, otherwise you risk damage to the rest of your drivetrain. If the VCU has not been changed you need to budget for changing it. We charge £445 for a reconditioned VCU, so try to get this amount off the price!
The other thing to check is if all the tyres are the same make, type and size, and look as though they were all changed at the same time. When you take the Freelander for a test drive, give it a decent run, then come back and try touching the VCU (this is the bulbous piece half way along the prop shaft). Be careful, it could be hot! If the VCU is too hot to hold your hand comfortably on it then your tyres are mismatched and will need changing, so if this is the case you need to budget for it.
Good luck with the purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi i have a 1998 freelander xdi the other day the speedo decided to stop working and found out that it may be down to tthe speed transducer, i have replaced this tonight and yes my speedo and trip now works but it is now doubling the speed ie doing 35mph it will read 70 mph and also on doing a 2 mile journey my trip reads 4 miles any ideas what may be wrong and how i can fix it please?
regards Tracy
Hi Tracy,
Good to talk to you today. You certainly have an odd issue there. Please do let us know if disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes gets everything to reset itself and communicate properly again.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue/All,
I still have a problem with my Freelander ES 2002 and do not have a clue what it might be. The vehicle starts normally on first ignition and runs properly. But once I switch it off, it sometimes fail to start. When it does this, I have to wait for 30 min to 3 hours before the vehicle can start again.
Some days, it works normally and on others I feel just unlucky.
Anyone with a clue what it might be? I was told it might be the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor? Can these lead the vehicle to behave this way?
Kind regards,
Hi Lefranc,
Your crank shaft sensor is responsible for the ignition timing, so it certainly could be the problem. It may just fault when the engine is hot (hence your Freelander starts first time but requires the engine to cool before it will start again thereafter).
A cam shaft sensor generally will cause poor idling or stalling, and if left can cause starting issues, so worth checking.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, great page. Bought an 05 reg 5dr 2.0l TD4 (97k on clock) a few weeks ago. After a week or so, started getting a squeaky noise that starts about 20mph/1,500rpm after being on the road for 5mins. Must be a drive shaft problem? Maybe unrelated but I have had several occasions when the engine turns over but won’t fire. I’ve got an almost complete service history and receipts for some work. Most concerned about the drive shaft.
Hi Richie,
Thank you for your kind comments and congratulations on your purchase.
With regard to the squeak, where does it appear to be coming from, front or back? Left, right or central? Once it starts after 5 mins does it continue the whole time you are driving?
The non-firing could be the heater plugs or an injector.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, thanks for the reply. Someone has said it looks like the oil leak is coming from the rocket gasket? Is this an expensive job to get done? Thanks.
Hi Paula,
For the rocker gasket you could be looking at up to £250, depending how stubborn your injectors want to be!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Guys, I have just brought a freelander 2ltr de 5 dr 2001 and have noticed a very small oil leak. The little puddle is in the centre, slightly back from in between the two front wheels. It recently had a service about a month ago. Any idea what it could be?
Hi Paula,
It is very difficult to tell as the puddle may not be where the oil leak is but it may be it has run down and dripped from there.
Since it is in the centre check the area around the IRD / Transfer Box, it could be one of the seals leaking.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi. I have a 98 L series 134k. Its been bullet proof for years but I now have a water leak on what appears to be the bottom hose rad joint. Is this commmon? I have a heavy duty sump guard on and just want an idea before wrestling it off.
Cheers
John
Hi John,
Not a particularly common problem, but just general wear and tear so nothing to be too concerned about.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I am back again and request your expert assistance. I was out on leave and when I got back home I tried my 2002 Freelander ES. I started the car and took it to the garage for the normal inspection. Before doing anything, one of the mechanic tried to start the vehicle which refused to start. I am not sure whether he touched something on the door.
Is there any advice you can provide so that I can start the car again? By the way, which country are you in? I would wish to call you and explain more.
Kind regards,
Hi Lefranc,
We are in the UK, telephone +44-780-9575-421. By all means give us a call and we will help as much as we can.
When the mechanic tried to start the Freelander was it cranking or doing nothing at all? As far as I am aware there is nothing on the door which could stop it from starting, so it is unlikely to be related to this.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Caroline,
Make sure the vehicle is still four wheel drive and not adapted to two wheel drive as some people do to save on repair bills, check when the head gasket was done if a 1.8 petrol and make sure the double layer gasket has been used if not walk away this will cost you, check history of the car, when was the VCU last maintained then the usual Cambelt change and service, check underneath for oil and water leaks, they can leak from manifold gasket, water pump and header units usually crack, and the biggest test run the car turn off and take off the oil filler cap if their is a white mayonnaise substance in their then walk away.
Good luck
This is amazing, everything and more on this web sight. Iam actually thinking of getting a freelander and looking at one tomorrow and I am a female which I actually feel more confident what to look for. Massive thank you for this page, I can actually go to sleep now. 🙂
Hi Caroline,
Thank you for your kind comments, so pleased you have found the information here useful.
Good luck with your hunt for a Freelander. If you have any concerns or questions when you go to view one please do not hesitate to contact us and we will advise as much as we can.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Your welcome their are many other company’s that do this on eBay etc
Hope it helps
Hi Daz/Sue,
Many thanks. I did managed to get a remote key for my Freelander and I am feeling much safer now.
However, I have a navigation system (I am not sure that’s how it is called but it is a sort of small TV) but since I have no manual, I do not know how to use it (information is displayed in a language I don’t know – probably Japanese or Chinese). Can you assist?
It also have a DVD or VCD reader below the passenger’s seat.
Kind regards,
Hi Lefranc,
If you go to http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document/view?id=98441&groupId=364 you will be able to download all the manuals for the navigation system.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Many thanks Sue,
I will hook up with this link.
Kind regards,
Lefranc
Hi Lefranc
In that case try this company they ship to anywhere.
http://www.remotekey.co.uk/cars/land-rover/freelander/
Thanks
Daz
Many thanks Daz,
Much appreciated. I will consult the website and hopefully my situation will be solved. Thanks for your great help!
Kind regards,
Unfortunately you will need to go to a main stealer with your documents they will then by reg look up the code for your key this wont be cheap though.
Thank you Daz,
I am not worried much about the cost. The main issue is that there are no many dealers around my area (Central Africa, Eastern DRCongo).
Kind regards,
Lefranc
Hi Sue, Hi All,
I have an issue here and I hope you will be able to help me out. I purchased a Freelander petrol 2.5 V6 and only when the vehicle arrived, I realized the master key (with remote control) was missing. The only key available can start the vehicle but is not able to open the door. So I have to leave the door permanently open which presents lots of risks of robbery.
What should I do? Any hint?
Please assist!
Kind regards,
Hi,
I have an 02 Freelander 2.5 5dr. The rear tailgate door will not open. It is impossible toreach the screws to remove the trim to investigate. Any suggestions please.
Hi David,
It is very difficult when this happens. You need to pull out the top part of the panel and then check for any broken wires behind it – this is the most likely cause of it not opening.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have an 03 Freelander td4 which is very sluggish when starting and often takes two starts to get it revving properly. Any suggestions?
Hi Barry,
This sounds as if it could be either the MAF sensor or the glow plugs. Try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if she starts any better, if she does then you have found your problem and you can replace the MAF sensor. If it makes no difference then it is worth replacing the glow plugs.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
After Hill descending using HDC with my Freelander 2001, when driving it gives a jerk and the speed reduces. Its very uncomfortable, what can be the cause and how can it be controlled?
Hi Paul,
Is your Freelander automatic? If it is, when it does this does it flash the error “F4” on the dash board?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
thinking of buying a 98 xedi 1o5k..whats to check on the test drive/inspection
Hi Russell,
Good choice. The L-series engines (which is what is in the XEDI) are very reliable. Check around the engine for oil leaks – you will probably see some. The main thing you are checking for at this mileage is the drive train. If they have not replaced the viscous coupling unit (VCU) then you will need to change it as soon as possible or drop the prop shaft and run it in two wheel drive. To give you an idea of the cost of the VCU we charge £445 for a reconditioned VCU, bearings and fitting. To test if the VCU is a problem drive the Freelander on full lock, particularly in reverse, and if it feels like it is holding back, a little like the brakes are on, then it is urgent that you get it changed. Also check if the tyres are matched – all the same make, type, size and tread. If they are not then drive the Freelander for a few miles then get underneath and touch the VCU (it is the bulbous piece in the centre of the prop shaft). Be careful, it may be very hot. If it is too hot to hold your hand on comfortably then your tyres are mismatched and you are risking damage to the rear differential. You should always change all four tyres at the same time on a Freelander.
Hope this helps. If you have any further questions when you go to see it then do get in contact.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
what are compatable engines and gearboxes for the 2005 freelander
Hi Mark,
Compatible engines are not something we tend to deal with as we believe the original engines are very good if they are maintained correctly, so we do not really know what other engines you could put in your Freelander. It would depend on which engine your Freelander has currently, petrol 1.8, petrol 2.5 V6 or diesel TD4. Is your engine giving you problems?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
My 2004 1.8 has developed an intermittent rubbing noise at the front I think left hand side car drives fines as it should do but the noise is annoying almost sounds like a train chugging any ideas please ?
Hi Daz,
This sounds as though it could be a problem with the strut on the shock absorber.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I’ve got a 2.5 auto the gear change is slow how can I improve it,thanks julie
Hi Julie,
This could be a problem with one or more of the solenoids in the gearbox, possibly the shift solenoid. The best thing would be to have diagnostics done on the gearbox to determine where the issue is.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, Hi All,
I am interested in buying a 2002 Freelander ES but I am told it often displays electronic problems. Considering the fact that in my area there are no specialists with diagnostic units, I would be grateful if I can get advise on same. If electronic problem there is, how can it be fixed? I have noted already the need for changing the VCU ever 70,000 miles (miles or Kms?) and the cam belt every 72,000 miles.
Kind regards,
Hi Lefranc,
We would not say the Freelanders have specific electronic problems, although, like most modern vehicles, they are much easier to diagnose a problem by using diagnostic equipment. If you have say a sensor problem with your Freelander, and you do not have any access to diagnostic equipment, generally somebody who knows the vehicles well enough could give you a good idea what the problem is. It may be a little longer process but it is possible to diagnose issues without the diagnostic equipment.
If you do purchase the Freelander and have any problems with it, do get in touch with the symptoms and we will do our best to help – let us know at the time that you do not have access to any diagnostics otherwise we may come back and advise putting it on diagnostics!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
am buying 02 land rover freelander and i need to replace the transmission cooler and the Transmission fluid i call to check on Trans cooler but the cheapest was the universal transmission cooler , is that good for my car?
Thanks.
Hi Liza,
We have never used a universal transmission cooler so it is difficult for us to say if it would be any good for your Freelander. However, it is not something we would ever use, it is much better to use something which is specifically manufactured for your vehicle, it can be a false economy to take something which is universal.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421