There are three common signs of a failing/malfunctioning Freelander fuel pump, and in fact any vehicles fuel pump, these are:
1.The Engine Sputters at High Speed.
The most common early sign of a problem with a fuel pump comes when driving a vehicle at a consistent high speed. While traveling down the road the car will run well for about 10 miles and then begin to jerk around, or sputter, for a mile or two before returning to normal.
Many people will mistake this problem for simple “Dirty” fuel or something similarly fuel related. While that could be the problem, it’s not uncommon for a fatigued pump to sputter as it struggles to supply fuel in a constant stream at the correct pressure.
2. Vehicle losing power while Accelerating
Losing power feels very similar to the first symptom, however, instead of experiencing a sputtering from the engine while driving, you will experience it while accelerating from a stop. Usually you’ll find your vehicle will initially move before making noises and jerking around as if it was about to stall, only to then continue accelerating smoothly.
The process of acceleration creates an increased demand for fuel by the engine. A malfunctioning pump cannot maintain the required pressure to deliver this fuel in a steady manner, thereby causing the engine to improperly mix fuel and air and lose power. Once pressure is restored, the engine is able to run smoothly and the car takes off.
3. Vehicle surging
The opposite effect of the above symptoms, surging, can also be a sign of a malfunctioning fuel pump. A car that surges will be moving along normally at a consistent speed, then, with no driver interaction, will pick up and “surge” forward as if the accelerator had been depressed.
Surging is created by normal wear and tear of the pump as the pump develops inconsistencies within the motor. This creates a situation where the pump cannot take enough electricity to maintain the pressure needed for steady speeds and may surge or jump forward with a sudden increase in pressure.
So if you have one or more of these symptoms check your fuel pump, and remember, depending on which model of Freelander you have, you could have more than one pump, a high pressure and a low pressure fuel pump, so you will need to check both of these.
Hopefully this has covered the issue you might have with your Freelander fuel issue, if however you have not managed to determine what the problem is please give us a call on +44-780-9575-421 or drop us an email to sue@freelanderspecialist.com.
hey mate i have a freelander gs.
when i try to start it will only crank not start intill i pull a L shaped hose of the pump under the benet after i do taht fuel comes out the pump and the car will start but will still cut off somtimes and i wil have to do it again. what can i do about this?
thank you.
chris.
Hi Chris,
What engine does your Freelander have and what year is it?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Sue,
I have a Freelander 2 SD4 2011 auto with 54k miles on it. Since purchasing it, it’s had an issue with stuttering when pulling away. Although this isn’t my car, it sounds exactly like the stutter in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMVtjQG0igc&feature=emb_logo
I’ve noticed the problem is worse on warmer days. I was wondering if you knew of this problem and if you could fix it if I brought it in?
Cheers
Peter
Hi Peter,
From the video this sounds like an issue with the turbo boost solenoid which is part of the turbo. Have you pout it on diagnostics? Although the turbo boost solenoid does not always bring up a code it is worth checking what the diagnostics are saying.
It is certainly something we can check for you and fix if you would like to bring it to us. We could see it on Monday 29 June or Tuesday 30 Jun if either of these are convenient.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, i gota problem on my LR 2 2007 3.2L ,
it says
steering column locked
HDS terrain système faulty
The car won’t start, the only way is to disconnect the + battery for a sec with the key in ignition , after that you can hear a clicclic noise coming from the glow box the car start and show terrain system faulty , everything work and i can drive.
I notice that if you leave the key in ignition after shut of the engine and restart it after a while 10 minutes or 10 days doesn’t matter the car start straight with no one fault.
i dropped the car the range rover dealers they charge me 330 euro for a diag and tell me that they need to change BCM 1330 E and steering column module for 300 euro with labour that make 2800 euro. they explain me that the BCM had water on it due to the windshield cracked , but it a bit hard to understand as the vehicle is working with no fault once your restart it .
Can you help me ?
i have checked all the earth cable and cleaned them
disconnect / inspect the BCM with no water signs or burn signs inside
when a put the OBD2 scanner from AUTEL it found ABS module data not readable
from the HDC terrain system faulty data not readable from the ABS module
Have you ever had that bug on the LR 2 ? could you help me the car is from UK and a live in France .
best regards
CARL
Hi Carl,
If, when the Freelander starts, there are no issues with the functions which the BCM controls then it does not sound like the BCM has an issue. It sounds more like the steering lock issue – I will email you some instructions on how to check this.
All the best,
Sue
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Hello,
Please apologize for my poor english.
I Have got Freelander 2 Sd4 Year 2011 with automatic gear box.
I have done more then 300.000 kms and the car started to have some problems like sputtering at cold engine etc… I have changed the EGR valve and now it runs better but still sometimes engine sputter like when I push the accelerator it just shut down but after a while it run better …. what could be this sputtering of the engine ?
Thanks,
F.gala
Hi Fraancesco,
When did you last change the fuel filter?
Does your Freelander have a diesel particulate filter? If so, it may need a regeneration.
Have you put it on diagnostics? Were there any codes?
All the best,
Sue
I have 2003 1.8 k series freelander runs a bit lumpy more when up to tempreture rev needle slightly bouncing sometimes smell of fuel.and car is sluggish could this be fuel pump I had code multiple missfire but changed plugs and leads to no improvment
Hi Lee,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
It could be the coil packs – did you change these?
Have you checked the catalytic convertors and oxygen sensors – both pre and post cat?
Check for a vacuum leak and make sure there is no coolant leaking into the cylinders (this would cause white smoke from the exhaust).
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue I hope you can help me. I have a freelander TD4 2005 facelift, I keep getting the engine managment light on and get power loss also noticed that turbo make a louder noise at around 3000+ revs then car starts to sound rough and goes into safe mode, already changed low pressure fuel pump, low pressure filter, airflow sensor the one found in the intake pipe of turbo, air filter and crankcase breather, oil filter, oil and pollen filter and problem is still going, we did a diagnostic run and I had 2 errors one was about the air/ temperature sensor, and one was about security, any tips what I can do next.
Thanks in advance 😊
Hi Ian,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
Do you have the OBD fault codes associated with the errors?
When does the error tend to occur? Is it just when it has reached 3000 rpm? Does it reset itself if you turn it off and restart it?
Try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if you still get the same issue.
It could be worth checking the fuel pressure on the low and high pressure pumps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue,
Here is what I changed so far, fuel pump, fuel filter, changed all turbo vacuum pipes and turbo hoses, MAF sensor, turbo solenoid, air/ temperature sensor, new crankcase filter, new air filter, new oil filter and new engine oil, now it drives fine for a few minutes until it warms up then out of the blues it just cuts power completely and when you press the throttle pedal nothing happens it’s like its disconnected some times if you keep the pedal floored or you let the pedal go it comes back but as soon I touch a bit the pedal it cuts again, most of the time if i stop the engine for 10 or 15 minutes it would drive again for a few kilometres until it starts again, sometimes if I just rev the engine hard while on neutral the engine managment comes on and cuts any input from the throttle pedal, on cold start the engine feels and sounds good but just before the problem starts again I can feel the engine becoming rough and starts to misfire at around 2000 and 2200rpm, there are a few things that can still make this happen 1. High pressure fuel pump, injectors and injectors wire harness, high pressure fuel sensor, or stuck turbo, not sure if there is any throttle sensor attached to the accelerator pedal but anyways I dont think that is my issue, when I got this car it needed a good service because as soon I removed the crankcase filter I noticed it was torn and really sticky same was with the oil filter. Any idea what could trigger this issue, this issue is driving me crazy and I cant think of anything els to try.
Hi Ian,
Check the wastegate actuator on the turbo is moving freely.
It is possible the problem is the high pressure fuel pump, but unlikely it is the injectors.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I have a 2011 freelander 2 SD4, my fuel gauge is defective. When it is almost a quarter of a tank, it will fall to empty, than after filled the tank, it will go back to give a reading.
What is problem exactly and the defective parts need to be replaced?.
Regards
Djoubir
Hi Djoubit,
The fuel tank in the Freelander 2 is a saddle tank and there is a fuel sender with a float in each side of the tank. It is generally one of these which has the problem – the trouble is trying to determine which one. Since it is a long job to get into the sender units it is often best to change them both whislt you are there.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Thank you for your help, my second question: do I need to change the fuel pump also with these senders?
As I mentioned in the previous email, the fuel gauge starts giving wrong reading (fall to empty) only when it is almost a quarter of tank, otherwise no issue at all.
Best Regars
Djoubir
Hi Djoubir,
No, just the sender units.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
Firstly let me say that this is an incredibly kind service to offer. Thank you for being such a wonderful person who puts time and effort into helping others.
I’m having an issue with my 2004 Freelander 2.5L SE. Where the throttle becomes unresponsive and the idle starts surging from 800-1200RPM. Typically if this happens at start up (which it mainly does) I can turn the engine off and the problem doesn’t re-occur for a bit. Unfortunately this problem got more and more frequent to the point where it was occurring more often than not, causing me serious issues. So i replaced the electronic throttle body which I thought to be the culprit. but after two weeks with the new throttle body the problem is starting to return!
Could the new throttle body be faulty? is it the fuel pump? Something else I haven’t considered? Help!
Also the problem occasionally occurs while driving often causing it to go into limp mode showing the TC and ABC lights.
Hi Ryan,
Thank you for your kind words.
It is unlikely to be the throttle body at fault as you would not expect it to have exactly the same fault you had previously.
It is worth checking / changing the camshaft and crankshaft sensors.
When was the fuel filter last changed? It could be worth changing this.
It could also be worth getting a diagnostic reading done.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Thank you for your website.
I have a FL2 2.2 I love the car but for the past few weeks I have been experiencing problems.
It first started with a jerk /sputter when accelerating at high speed. with a lot of black smoke.
a fews days later the car cut off on me on the highway and refused to start immediately. I eventually got it to start after about 15 minutes. It has done this 3 times since and behaves as if there is no diesel in the lines.
Any suggestions?
Hi John,
My apologies for the delay in responding, we have just returned from vacation.
The black smoke could be a split or hole in the intercooler pipes. Particularly check the short one from the throttle body and the one to the intercooler.
With regard to the cutting out it is worth checking the throttle body as this may be sticking open or closed.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hope you guys can help 🙂
06 Td4 Auto L314 (aka FL1)
I am aware of at least 3 others with a similar problem
What are ALL the possible causes of a fault code, read using a Hawkeye Total, and based on your experiences the actual fault and solution:
DTC No: P1190
Fuel Pressure Plausibility. Governer Deviation versus Engine Speed to High
Only comes on after engine is thoroughly warmed up (4-5 miles) and go over 2500 revs, resetting it and it quickly comes back, Leave it long enough and the MIL comes on.
Let it cool down, and the it repeats as above, i.e. problem only when warm. driven 5 miles or so. It will hold the higher revs when cool.
Changed the Fuel Pressure sensor, same
Changed the fuel filter, same, (rear offside wheel well)
Checked low pressure pump,
A) plenty of flow,
b) maintains a consistent 320-350Kpa (3.2-3.5 bar)
Changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator
Cleaned the not dirty or clogged Fuel Pickup (Sender) in tank filter.
New Air Filter, New Oil Filter, modified crankcase breather
Still has the problem – what is left ?
Hi Mike,
This sounds like an internal / external leakage of the seals on the high pressure fuel pump.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Replaced the High Pressure Fuel Pump and Regulator with a Bosch Warrantied Refurbished one,
Now the problem appears after about 1hr plus of driving, less than that and it’s OK….
Once it’s triggered needs to rest for a while (thoroughly cool??) until it will run clear again (for an hour..)
Hi Mike,
Do you have the modified fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom fitted?
All the best,
Sue
Hello Sue,
My Frellander 1 year 2005 did not start the engine and the problem was the fuel pump. The car was stopped for 10 days disconnected from the battery, after changing the fuel pump (not OEM), idling became very irregular and turned on the engine light on the panel with the following faults P0302 / P0304 / P1300 (only measuring with engine idling). Could you help what could be the cause of these failures?
Hello Alexandre,
Which engine does your Freelander have? If it is the 2.0 TD4 diesel then we have found the aftermarket fuel pumps not to be very reliable, it is much better to use a genuine Land Rover one.
However, the fault codes you have, with multiple misfires, seems to indicate an issue with either the crankshaft sensor, the camshaft sensor (check the sensors and the wiring to them), injector 2 or injector 4.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi, hoping I may be able to get some help. My Landrover Freelander 2 has been lagging on acceleration every now and then – usually when I am taking off on an incline after sitting idle (traffic lights, drop offs). When it happens (not every day, and not consistently in the same spots), it seems to get progressively worse until I get home, then it is fine the following day. Have had the fuel pump replaced, also had Land Rover run a diagnostic – they said there is nothing wrong. Any ideas on what the issue could be?
Hi Anna,
Try putting the Freelander in neutral when you sit at traffic lights etc. and see if this stops the issue happening. There is what they call a “Neutral Idle Exit” which is a mode entered when the car is in drive and held with the brake applied for a period of time (approx. 6 seconds). The transmission then releases clutch pressure to effect a neutral condition; “Idle Neutral”. When the brakes are released again the transmission will re-engage drive; “Idle Neutral Exit”. It may be an issue with this system.
Otherwise it could be an issue with the turbo boost solenoid – once the problem has occurred once is it as though you are now in limp home mode, i.e. you cannot get any power boost from the Freelander for the rest of the day?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for your reply. That’s right – when it happens there is minimal power for the rest of the day. It is back to normal the following day though. Should that problem have come up in the diagnostic at Land Rover though?
Hi Anna,
It sounds like it is going into limp home mode. This could be the electronic turbo boost solenoid which does not always come up on diagnostics if the engine management light does not come on. Unfortunately the electronic turbo boost solenoid is part of the turbo itself and so it would be a case of replacing the turbo.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Guys
I have a 2013 TD4 that originally on occasion would idle funnily like pickup revs every few seconds while stopped at the lights. This would happen maybe once a week if that.
Then once on a large drive it put itself into limp mode for 30 minutes then was fine again. Recently the idling has gotten worse and even tends to stall. Do you think this could be a faulty fuel pump or something else?
I took it to the mechanic about it and he couldn’t find anything wrong.
Thanks!
Hi Christian,
When did you last change the fuel filter? This would be the first thing to try.
It would be worth putting it on diagnostics and seeing what codes come up since it went into limp home mode.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue was wondering if you can help have a 2005 td4, problem I have is the coolant gauge reaches halfway the fans dont seem to be coming on and the car goes into limp mode then cuts out altogether, once called down drives with no problems again till temp rises, last time happened slave cylinder gave way lost all gears having complete clutch kit put in next week as long as can sort this limp mode out ,could a drop in hydraulic pressure kick in limp mode therefore 1 fix clutch will fix all thanks kev
Hi Kevin,
No, the hydraulics have nothing to do with the electronics.
When was the fuel filter last changed? If it has been some time then try changing it.
Otherwise it sounds more like a fuel pump issue, check the pressures of the low and high pressure fuel pumps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks didn’t think it would I’ll give it a test
Hi Sue,
First of all thank you for taking your time to help others, very kind of you.
I bought a 2000 Freelander 2.0 D. when I pick it up, started fine and drove well. I was told by the owner that the core plugs need replacing because it was leaking a lot of water.
When I got home checked the core plugs and all of them needed replacing they were completely gone!!
So I got a mate that is mechanic to changed them all, and also replaced the cambelt, all filters, oil, diesel,air filter, all new filters,etc. Now when it starts, it blows a lot of white smoke and when the temperature gets to more or less half way it cuts out completely and have have to wait awhile before we can try to start it again. The mechanic is convinced that is the high pressure fuel pump. Im a bit confused because before it drove fine with no smoke… Not sure if I should spend money on a new pump.. What else could it be?
Thank you in advance.
Kind Regards
Hi Ricardo,
It sounds as though the timing is out.
Did you change the fuel injection pump belt at the same time as the timing belt? It is always worth doing this at the same time.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi sue been a while right this td4 still off road, turns out someone down the line had cut wires disconnected hoses fitted a dump valve all to bypass a problem been trying to put back to original, the 3 feed wires from I think mechanic said the ecu should be 1 x earth , 1 x 5v and 1 x 12v ,there all showing 12v and runs like a bag of s***e , diagnostic shows ecu ,tried 2 different 1s all does same, so guess pointing to 1 of the wires incorrectly put back any ideas to save hours checking every wire thanks getting close to scrapping it but looks better then landies half its age thanks kev
Hi Kevin,
What is the diagnostic code that you have?
The feed wires you talk about, where are they coming from and where are they going to, and what colours are they?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi Sue,
wondering if you could help. I have a 2006 freelander. the problem is that it refuses to start after short drives and wont accelerate its gets worse even after a small hill. Now what has happened to day it does start but wont go into 1st gear only have to force it to 2nd gear for it to take off. and that is a major strain. please can you help. I have had to cough a lot of money on this car every month.
Hi Ciki,
My apologies for the delay in responding, we have just returned from vacation.
Which engine does your Freelander have?
If it is diesel 2.0 TD4 then it could be an injector issue or the low or high pressure fuel pump.
The issue with getting into gear sounds like a separate issue with the clutch hydraulics.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi ,
I have a freelander S 2002 V6 petrol 5 doors.
Here are my problems
1. On the road, the car suddenly goes out.
2. The water is pushed back by the jar.
3.In my sight or table. it is written service engine soon, then the symbol TC in yellow. then a sloping car with an exclamation point in yellow.
4. Then my air conditioning, I must put three on the bottom to get fresh air
5. During air conditioning, water dripping.
Can you help me I am in Haiti. Thank you
Hi Mael,
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Freelander.
If the water is bubbling from the header tank then you either have air being drawn into the system, perhaps from a cracked thermostat housing or a blown head gasket, or you have a blockage in the system. Once the Freelander has reached full running temperature is the bottom radiator hose getting hot?
The overheating of the engine could be the cause of it cutting out to stop any further damage. The best thing would be to put it on diagnostics and see if you are getting any error codes.
The warning lights, TC and HDC, could just be caused by the cutting out rather than a different issue.
The problem with the air conditioning button is the control switch which might need replacing.
Where is the water dripping? If it is underneath the Freelander then this is normal.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue ,
thanks for your reply.
The mec told me that he removed the thermostat, it does not correspond to the climate of my country.
then he told me it’s the fan’s thermal switch that does not work (to change).
He will look at the fuel pump and the oil filter.
In my sight, it is written service engine soon.Is this normal?
I live in Haiti. How can I buy parts on your side?
Thanks Sue
Hi Mael,
You need to put it on diagnostics to see which trouble code the service engine soon is bringing up.
It is not a good idea to remove the thermostat. The thermostat operates on the temperature of the engine and is not affected by climate. Are the fans operating?
You can purchase parts through us. We take payment by card (through Paypal) or by bank transfer.
All the best,
Sue
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Hi Sue ,
the fans is not operating because the thermo switch is not good.
can you give email for any contact please ?
many thanks SUE
Hi Mael,
My email address is sue@freelanderspecialist.com.
All the best,
Sue
Im driving a freelander landrover diesel engine,manual transmission..im having a problem with this car..the idling is perfect but when pushing or pressing the accelerator pedal the engines shuts off..it only started when i changed a crankshaft sensor.plz help,what coul be the possible cause?
Hello Mpaphi,
My apologies for the delay in responding, we have just returned from vacation.
Check the pressure of the low pressure fuel pump, which should be at about 3.5 bar. What caused you to change the crankshaft sensor?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi have a freelander td2 auto 2007…it’s displaying no codes at all but is running really poor….it jerks whilst gears are changing and a whistling noise….I have had it fully serviced and also had the inter cooler pipe changed due to it having a split in it….ran great for a week now back to its normal jerking …once accelerated to high speed runs fine but when slow down starts again please help
Misfire coming up on diagnostic machine
Hi Kelly,
The whistling noise could be the turbo, so it is worth checking this; or it could be a vacuum leak from the EGR or the turbo pipes.
For the jerking it is worth checking the reluctor wheel on the front end of the crank shaft. This gives a message via a sensor tot he ECU about crank shaft position. Check the wheel for damage or roughness.
Was the fuel filter changed during the service?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Egr valve
Hie Sue
My name cliff from Zimbabwe I brought a Freelander 2 td4 2007 model . Yestarday when driving it to go to work it just cut off . The previous day I driving it on step road then it jeck but later cum to normal I thot maybe it was contaminated fuel I called a Mec to check on fuel filter but he said it was fine also I just did a service of the car 3weeks ago pliz sue help me
Hi Cliff,
It is worth checking the throttle body. When you did the service did you change the fuel filter? If so, was it primed from the tank into the filter?
All the best,
Sue
Hi sue,
I had a problem with my freelander 2 2008 TD4, when I filled up at the garage I somehow lost all diesel in all the fuel lines, the filter is new and I had 1/4 tank at the time I filled up, this has happened a few times and when I suck the fuel from the tank back to the filter to fill the filter it goes straight back to tank.
Is there a non return valve somewhere.
Many thanks
Mark
Hi Mark,
It sounds like you may have a leak in the fuel system. Check the fuel feed pipe.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue,
I had a problem with my freelander 2 2008 TD4, when I filled up at the garage I somehow lost all diesel in all the fuel lines, the filter is new and I had 1/4 tank at the time I filled up, this has happened a few times and when I suck the fuel from the tank back to the filter to fill the filter it goes straight back to tank.
Is there a non return valve somewhere or has my lift pump failed in the tank.
Many thanks
Mark
Hi sue wondering if you can help me I have 2012 Land Rover free lander 2 190bhp. And I am having a error code come up B100A-15 fuel pump authorisation.
Hope you can help thanks
Hi Joe,
Are you getting any symptoms? If not then do not worry about it, Land Rover call it a “ghost code”.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for the reply sue.
I am having some problems when I am stationary in the car at idle the revs are hunting dropping below as if it was going to stall I don’t know if this would have anything to do with the code thanks again
Joe
Hi Joe,
B100A-15 Fuel Pump Authorisation – the description is circuit short to power or open Fuel pump authorisation circuit – short to power, open circuit.
Check the electrical circuit diagrams for the fuel pump authorisation circuit and check for a short to power or open circuit.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue I have the same fault code for fuel pump authorisation open circuit to power changed fuel filter no better had fault code for map sensor but hasn’t come back car is flat till it gets to boost is it definitely a wire fault and do you know where the wire loom is located ?
Many thanks in advance
Hi Jonathan,
Which Freelander do you have – year and engine?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Joe
Did you manage to sort this as I have the same error code and the same issue as you described
Thanks
Pete
Hi
I wonder if you can help?
Recently my FL2 TD4 2007 has had some starting issues…
It normally starts on the button! Very quick to start, always has been… was never an issue.
However now quite regularly it takes a longer time to start….
I press the button and it cranks over but takes double the amount of time to start, an almost worrying
amount of time to start but it still starts always… it has never failed to start…
I read the fault codes and threw up Code B108D start circuit c (intermittent)
I understand this was a LR TSB in 2007 but I’m still not sure what to do.
Does anyone happen to have a definitive fix on this issue
Very grateful for any assistance
Regards
Roly
Hi Roly,
It sounds like it could be a fuelling issue, so the first thing to try is to change the fuel filter.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I have been reading through the posts and find them all very interesting. Just wondering if you could give me some advice. I have a 2011 Freelander 2 HSE Auto. I’ve had intermittent reduced power – no msg on dash. Resets when left a while. But last week car was driving fine, went on course and when went back to car it wouldn’t start. AA sprayed easystart into air intake and car started and drove well. When I stopped again to fuel up – car wouldn’t start again. AA again and car started and drove home without issue. Was checking fuel to and beyond fuel filter and now car won’t start at all. Fuel doesn’t seem to be coming up to fuel filter and when I primed it, got fuel up to HP pump but won’t actually start – only code we can see is B100 fuel pump authorisation. – completely lost ;(
Hi Colin,
It sounds like you have air in the fuel system. Prime it from the main fuel feed into the filter with a hand priming pump.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue. Finally found the problem. The ‘cross’ piece (link between HP fuel pump and camshaft) has split! According to LR cannot be bought separately. Cost of Fuel Pump £1100 !! Got cross piece through Bosch – should be here tomorrow. £17.50 including delivery 😉
Fantastic Colin, great that you have sorted it out, even better that you have not had to pay the Land Rover complete fuel pump prices!
All the best,
Sue
Thanks for replying Sue
Sad news sorry….
Don’t be in a rush to get back to me.
Basically the dtc are the latest ones read about a week ago.
Have had the fault for 3 months now.
Was advised to change the senders and do the wiring mod. This has been done but no change.
Have checked the wiring back to the BCM from the fuel tank which is fine.
Second earth has been fitted from battery to the starter motor securing bolt.
Regards
Pete
Hi Pete,
Check if the pump on the Haldex is operational when the message on the dash board comes up. It sounds like either the pump or the Haldex ECU.
All the best,
Sue
Thanks Sue
Any pointers how to check the pump is running?
Thanks
Pete
Hi Pete,
If you turn the key on you can hear it prime. If the engine is running you can feel a little vibration.
All the best,
Sue
Thanks Sue
I down rated the fuse from 15a to 5a and it didn’t blow so I figured the pcb and pump might be ok.
I will try a listen for it though.
Going to fit a new battery today as u nor sure the age of the present one
Regards
Pete
Escuse my bad typing
“As I’m not sure the age of the present one”
Excellent Pete, let us know how you get on.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
New heavy duty yuasa battery fitted but no change. I can hear a wiring noise from the Haldex on post ignition check. 5amp Haldex fuse still intact.
Is it worth changing brake pedal switch ?
Still giving various pedal faults and sender B low circuit.
Can you clarify which sender is B I thought it was the tank eject sender without the built in pump.
Regards
Pete
Hi Pete,
Yes, try can try changing the brake pedal switch, although it could be that your problem is with the body control module itself as this is where most of the errors are coming from which then cause a knock on effect to the other systems. Probably worth getting an auto electrician to test the BCM.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue wondered if you can help.
I have a 2007 freelander 2 that has a fault. Drives fine until I have travelled 4 miles or so and the following happens I get terrain response system faulty message on the dash that shuts down terrain response functions and within a minute the fuel gauge drops with warning light and beep and low fuel message on sat navigation. After a mile or so car goes into limp mode.
The fault will reset if I stop the car for half an hour or so.
Codes read:
BCM
P1348-00 fuel level sensor B circuit low
C1108-01, C1108-12, B1029-21 pedal sensor faults
ATM
U0401-94 invalid data
PCM
P0222-00 TPS low input
Thanks
Pete
Hi Pete,
My apologies for the delay in responding but my father was taken ill and passed away.
It could be an issue with the Haldex although you have quite a number or codes showing. It would be worth clearing the codes and then seeing which reappear.
Do you have a second earth strap fitted? If not then it is worth fitting one from the battery to the gearbox bell housing as it could be that some of your issues are electrical gremlins.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue wondered if you can help.
I have a 2007 freelander 2 that has a fault. Drives fine until I have travelled 4 miles or so and the following happens I get terrain response system faulty message on the dash that shuts down terrain response functions and within a minute the fuel gauge drops with warning light and beep and low fuel message on sat navigation. After a mile or so car goes into limp mode.
The fault will reset if I stop the car for half an hour or so.
Thanks
Pete
Hi sue, just wondering if you could help me please.
I had just filled up with diesel in my freelander 2 TD and was driving at approx 50 miles an hour accelerating up a slight embankment when all of a sudden with no previous symptoms my engine died and said reduced engine performance . There are no fault codes showing at all, and there have been no symptoms of stuttering or anything at all it was running fine and then it just stooped accelerating , showed reduced engine performance and would not start again? Any help or ideas would be very much appreciated thank you Sean
Hi Sean,
The best thing would be to put it on diagnostics to see if there are any codes logged.
When was the fuel filter last changed?
Have you checked that it was diesel you put in – I have done this myself before and the Freelander just stopped at a roundabout with no real warning!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi I have a 2012 freelancer with fuel pump authorisation circuit-short to power ,open circuit could you push me in the right direction
Cheers Andy
Hi Andy,
Do you have any symptoms or just the fault code?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue, thanks for all the nice things you are doing, and I want to say sorry for my bad English
I have a FL 2 2.2 td4 hse with 282000 kilometers on the dash, when I start the engine everything is well, the problem begins when I start moving I loose extremely the power for about 15 to 20 minutes while still moving the car start surging and the acceleration become normal with some surging from time to time, and when I reduce the speed to zero the car start surging with unstable idling in the dead weight
I have got a check engine light with many codes p 1102 p2290 p068A p0183 p0100 p1103 p0203 p1196
I will be very grateful if you give some ideas for what it is coming
Best regards
Karim
Hi Karim,
Thank you for your kind words.
Could you please clear the codes, take it for a drive, then read the codes again and let us know the codes and description that come back. This will get rid of all the historical codes and show only the ones relevant to the current problem.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue, thank you very much for your quick reply
The last codes were p 2196 and p 1102 and I forgot to tell you that when the car retrieve its acceleration and speed with some jerk from time to time there is some smoke and the fuel consumption seem to be higher than it should.
Regards
Karim
Hi Karim,
We would recommend you start by changing the MAF sensor as it may be a fault with this which is affecting the O2 sensor.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
Thank you very much for your help, I am terribly sorry but in addition to p2196 i forgot to state the p0134 fault, do I have to change the MAF sensor anyway? If yes, what if I remove the MAF and take the car for a quick drive to check the performance? Thank you in advance.
Regards
Karim
Hi Karim,
You cannot just unplug the MAF on a Freelander 2, it will just bring the engine management light on.
The P0134 code can be caused by:
– Faulty O2 (oxygen) sensor
– Faulty heater circuit in the O2 sensor
– Wiring or connector to the sensor chaffed, broken or corroded
– Blown heater circuit fuse
– Exhaust system leak
– PCM faulty
So check these, but you will also need to change the MAF.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
Hope you are ok, well i have changed my MAF today like you asked me to do, and guess what, it worked perfectly and the car is as new as it was, thank you thank you thank you ? I really appreciated your help, now I am going to check with the scanner if the faults had gone, I will keep informed.
PS: is it normal that I didn’t have the REP message on my dash?!
Regards
Karim
Hi Karim,
That is excellent news. The REP message does not always come up, it depends on exactly what the fault is.
Enjoy your Freelander!
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
Hope you are ok, 02 days ago, I filled my FL2 td4 tank (not sure if it has a relation)and after few miles ( 80 k/h sport mode)I have had rep message, I shot off the engine and restarted it and same thing, when I did an OBD scan it showed 0error code, I have cleared it anyway and the rep message has gone and the car went as smooth as usual, I have been driving it for more than 200 kilo(separate time) and the day after while I was in motorway (120k/h sport mode or manual I don’t remember) the rep appeared again, when I was home I did the same thing with obd and same result, nothing, I cleared it, and the message has gone, although no smoke, no strange noise, nothing to mention except the limp mode, could you please help. me with that
Hi Karim,
It sounds very much like the turbo boost solenoid, it does not always bring up an error message but if you clear the Reduced Engine Performance message you get the power back. It will gradually do it more and more often. Unfortunately the turbo boost solenoid is not sold separately and is only available as part of the turbo itself.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Thank you for your quick reply, is there any chances that it could be a fuel filter, egr, throttle body or valve especially that it happens just after few kilometers out of the fuel station.
Best regards
Karim
Hi Karim,
It certainly could be the fuel filter, if you have not changed this recently that is the first thing to do. You could clean the EGR. The throttle bodies can be an issue but normally bring up a fault code.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
I have just had a code after a scan on my free2 and it says p0234, hope you could help me
Regards
Karim
Hi Karim,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
It sounds like the issue is either with the turbo itself or the turbo boost control actuator which is situated on the turbo.
All the best,
Sue
hi my auto freelander 1 v6 .is getting sluggish up hill . n the rev is high but km remai n at 40 then it changes after a long time.pls assist thk u
Hi Imraan,
This could be a number of issues but sounds like a fuelling issue.
When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? it could be worth trying this first.
There is a wire mesh filter in the bottom of the cream canister inside the fuel tank, it would be worth cleaning this filter as it can cause this type of issue when it gets blocked.
It is possible it could be a fuel pump issue but these are not common on the V6. It could be worth popping it on diagnostics if the above does not cure it.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi there I have a 2011 freelander 2 with a fault code of b100a-15 I can’t get rid of I’ve changed the fuel pump at the camshaft end with new locater washer and the fuel rail and t??
Hi Kris,
Are you getting any symptoms with the B100A-15 code or is the Freelander running as you would expect?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue now i have
B108D start button circuit C – intermitent
U0401 invalid data received from engine control module/power train module
C2002- odometer – intermitent
Can you please help me with these please?
Hi Finca,
These codes often come as glitches – are you getting any issues? If you do not have any issues just clear the codes and see if they come back.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,nothing that i can notice,only if any of these can bring that limp mode at constant speed over 110km/h…can one from this errors to bring the limp mode over 110km?
Hi Finca,
Have you tried clearing the codes? Do they come back?
All the best,
Sue
That B108D i think is that the key or keyfob is dirty and sometimes doesn’t come out from first,and that u0401 i didnt see it till now now i clean them and i will write tonight if they come back..and that odometer error i see it in the past but we will se tonight if and what they return…but any of these is poasible to put the car in limp mode at speeds over 110km/h but only at constant speed?
Hi Finca,
The U0401 invalid data received from engine control module/power train module could come up if the car goes into limp home mode, however it is not likely to be the cause of it going into limp home mode.
All the best,
Sue
Hi, hope you can help. This morning my freelander 2, 2007, felt like it had reduced power but it then drove ok. Later a warning came up saying reduced engine power, I cut the engine then started again and it was ok. 30 minutes ago I started the car and engine management light came on, the car feels like it’s driving ok. Any ideas?
Many thanks
Julie
Hi Julie,
The first thing to do is to take it for computer diagnostics. Get them to give you a print out of the codes and let us know what they are. Then ask them to clear the codes (this way if some reappear you will know they are current). It could be a number of things and the computer diagnostics should help to pinpoint the problem.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,unfortunately my problem is still here…at high speed over 110 km/h i got reduced power engine…with p0299 and p0380(this is new)glow plug/heater circuit…i changed intercooler hoses,Maf sensor,o2 sensor,diferential presure sensor and temperature sensor from DPF,air filter,fuel filter…i have this error only when i drive over 110 km/h till this speed car runs ok..what to look anymore…? its possible now if all 4 glow plugs to be burned and get power engine reduced and turbo error?
Hi Finca,
No, the glow plugs should not cause this issue, but it is worth changing them if you have the fault code.
It is still sounding like the turbo boost solenoid.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,first i want to thank you for all the ideas and help you give us,thanks for all your answers!
The turbo boost actuator (solenoid)VGT was tested in land rover special service and under my eyes ;)) and was ok at 800rpm and at 3500rpm test…where to look don’t know any more…
Hi Finca,
If you are confident the turbo boost actuator and turbo are working correctly then you need to go back to the other possible issues. Check:
– for leaks and air restrictions on the intake;
– for a fault on the EGR valve;
– for low oil pressure.
Please note that the turbo boost actuator tends to be an intermittent fault on these vehicles, and can be particularly prone to happening once the vehicle has warmed up and is on a longer higher speed journey. It tends to start by putting the Freelander into limp home mode occasionally, and over time it becomes more frequent.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,it is possible to be turbo boost actuator fauty?even they tested on original tester at 800 rpm and 3500rpm(test conditions) if i go and accelerate i can get even 160km/h but the problem is over 110-120 km at constant speed for 10-30 sec i got limp mode…till at 100-110 speed the car runs splendid no problem…and no engine light only error on display power engine reduced …at low oil pressure i dont think so no light at oil nothing,all hoses checked again…
Hi Finca,
Did you check the inlet manifold flap arm?
Did you do a smoke test on the turbo hoses?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,that inlet manifold arm it is there where is that 4 holes?or… amd what to see there?amd how to make a smoke test to turbo hoses?
Hi Finca,
You need to remove the top engine cover, and the arm, when you are facing the engine, is on the left top end of the intake manifold, and that is what operates the flaps. Check this is not broken.
You would need to go to a garage which has a smoke machine to do the smoke test.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,flap arm mainfold arm is ok it is working,check,and smoke test and computer hoses test check they are ok…
Hi Finca,
Unfortunately without seeing your Freelander we are at a bit of a loss for what else to suggest. If you fancy a trip to the UK we would be happy to take a look and see how we can help!
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,thx again for the help and the ideeas…it is strange…if i acelerate i can go with my foot on acceleration till 160-170 with no problem untill i keep the speed constant when i m over 110 km/h…then i have turbo error..the car dont like to go with constant speed but only over110km/h..in rest if i accelerate to 150-160 km/h no problem if i deaccelerate imediatly..
Hi Finca,
Could you please go back to when the problems started. Did these symptoms come on gradually or all of a sudden? Did they occur after some other work was carried out?
All the best,
Sue
First was when i was in a jurney and i receive power engine reduced(probably that splited hose) but till i found the splited hose i recon the turbo,changed the lambda sonde(bank 1 sensor 1) and take some time about 2 months i was driving in town and delete code,driving delete code…that was the cause i think because the dpf was 68% full …i send away the dpf and catalytic converter to full clean them..i was to land rover oficial repair store they found that splited intercooler hose and change,rewrite the car soft,after that test ok,and measage dpf full..i trip over 80 km away but no begin to dpf cleaning and got the presure sensor particle filter error…delete the error then ans after that i begin to get p0299 turbo error,i changed the presure diferential sensor from dpf and temperature sensor from dpf,but..is a big but i dont reset the computer after that ..it is possible that i got only once diferential presure sensor erorr delete error..and car computer to isolate that defect sensor and begin to get p0299 turbo error? And because i dont reset the computer car after that i change that sensor to be the prob?the cat maybe dont see that that sensor is changed and to not damage the dpf to cut the turbo?
Hi Finca,
Yes it is possible that the system is not registering you have changed the sensor, so put it back on diagnostics and delete the codes then see what happens.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,back with lr 2008hse 2.2td engine , when is loaded and try to accelerate and i go on hill i get power engine reduced…on straight road i can accelerate …and when i have same speed over 110 again power engine reduced..but now seems to get it even when the car is loaded and try to go up on hill..turbo changed,vgt tested,maf changed,diff presure sensor changed,sensor dpf changed,all hoses changed….the errors i have is p0299 turbo and glow plugs..
Hi Finca,
Classic signs of a problem with the turbo boost actuator.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,i put a dedicated diagnostics on car and i got MAP error LOW at idle speed and 3500 rpm test and MAF only at 3500 rpm LOW…all hoses there from intercooler all 3 changed it is possible that the sensor is gone? Vgt turbo ok,it is tested..and if MAP sensor defective to put my car in limp mode at constant speed over 100 km/h and when is loaded and try to go up on roads?,else wverithing it is ok,i check
Dpf test all ok
Hi Finca,
If the diagnostics are pointing to the MAP sensor then it is worth trying to change this, although we have never known the MAP sensor to put the Freelander into limp mode in this way.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,the diagnosis dont say that the MAP sensor is defect…just got that is LOW…and the diagnosis help says to check all the damage to sensors and all hoses,between maf and turbo,and turbo to inlet manifold…but all is checked…
Hi Finca,
There is clearly something that has been missed, it is going to be a case of checking it all again, especially the turbo boost control actuator.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,the turbo boost control known as VGT it passed bolth tests even idle at 800rpm and fast at 3500rpm…i think that the diagnosis was pointed if something with vgt was wrong…i think
Hi Finca,
It sounds like you have tried everything and without seeing your Freelander we are struggling with a solution. If you are ever in the UK we would be happy to look at it for you.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,the car running great now but just until i pass over 90-100 km/h speed..and then again i get p0299 turbo error…:(( my hose from intercooler to throtlle body is new original,MAF sensor new…what to look anymore don`t know..again…this week i will change the temperature sensor from DPF and the differential presure sensor from DPF…if will not working after that well again i will not know what to seek anymore…
Hi Finca,
Check the intake manifold flap arm.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,again…:)) again getting p0299 turbo but now only when i m driving at over 130km/h … when i was at land rover service at one test to MAF sensor show us at 3500 rpm the test show LOW…at 800rpm was OK ,it is possible to be MAF sensor and at high speed to get turbo error not MAF sensor error?
Hi Sue,an hoses between intercooler and throttle body was splited…so stupid,was splited to outside to front of the car,verry hard to be seen…no noise no black smoke nothing…pfff,finally…now
I have some problems it show me dpf full and a error to differential pressure sensor,if i change this and the temperature sensor from DPF will be ok?
Hi Finca,
If the DPF is full then it needs to be regenerated to get rid of the particulate matter in it. You can do this through motorway driving or using computer diagnostics.
Yes, it is possible the MAF sensor is an issue and you get the boost error.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue , i can t get to dpf to regenerate i got the message that dpf is full but no regenerate , i was on highway more than 30 min and nothing , when i first stop after more than 50 km i got diferential presure error (power engine reduced) and dpf full was gone but the diferential sensor presure error was there,i think or the temperature sensor is not ok or the diferential presure sensor is not ok and dpf not begin to regenerate
Hi Finca,
Change the sensors that the diagnostics say is the issue.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,same error p0299 turbo…but i don’t understand turbo is ok…but i get the p299 error only when the car is under boost conditions like foot on acceleration down continuously for 4-5 sec…
Hi Finca,
This sounds very much like the turbo boost actuator – this is what we would change at this stage given your symptoms and codes.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,I understand you perfectly but my mechanic called at the company who repaired the turbo and they said that they tested the turbo with actuator and the actuator it is ok …I don’t know what to say and do anymore…:((
Hi Finca,
Just to make sure everything is clear, contact the company who repaired the turbo again and ask them if they did any work on the actuator and how they tested that the actuator (not the turbo) was working correctly. Ask them if their warranty includes the actuator.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue , they said they tested the actuator ok bank probe with the turbo and the actuator is ok no need to change…but if it is ok what you looking to do after that?everytime that i have the error is the same p0299 …permanent but it alowes me to delete the error
Hi Sue,let’s say that we trust that the actuator was tested and it is ok,what do you try to do after that?
Hi Finca,
Check the throttle body.
Check the turbo hoses for leakage – you will need to do a smoke test on them.
The P0299 is turbo related, so it has to be something to do with the turbo or associated parts.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,it is possible to be the MAF sensor?if i put new one she needs to be reset from computer to see that this is new?the old one was changed but no efect,but I didn’t reset it from computer,the throttle it is working,open,close,clean i hope the sensors are ok…but i have no errrors from the throttles sensors
Hi Finca,
Yes, you would need to reprogramme the MAF sensor to the car.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,and if u pull out the connector engine will stop or he just give me the power engine reduced?
Hi Finca,
The engine should run with the MAF unplugged, however we would expect the engine management light to come on (not necessarily immediately) and possibly the power engine reduced message.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,I’m done…i have enough..tomorow at 12 i have an appointment at Land Rover special service at 115km from me…i m tired to look around i go and make special analysis and we see what is wrong , i m tired and I don’t know what to do anymore
It is a good idea to go to Land Rover, their diagnostics can read deeper than others. Please let us know how it goes.
All the best,
Sue
Check turbo solenoid. may be stuck open.
Thanks again sue put my mind at rest, again sue thank you for everything cars running well after your advice.
Kind regards
Mark
It’s a pleasure Mark.
All the best,
Sue
Hi sue,
I have a freelander 2 2.2 td4 2008 and I’m wondering at what point does the low pressure pump starts, the car is running well after a fuel filter change but I can not hear the low pressure pump, dose it cut in and out or runs all the time, I’m worried my HP pump is doing all the work.
Kind regards
Mark
Hi Mark,
The low pressure fuel pump will prime when you turn the key to the on position. If the pump was not working the Freelander would not start.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
And Sue,it is strange because my engine light dont light up..i cand see the error only on display where it says power engine reduced…no engine light on…
And is normal to get p0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 if that actuator is defective? I mean sensor circuit low voltage at o2 sensor if that actuator is not working well?and how about that we plug out the conector from turbo actuator what will happening or what needs to happen..how will see if its working or not…thanks again Sue in advance…i depend alot from your answers because we dont know what to so anymore..
Hi Finca,
The turbo boost actuator is electronic so you cannot see if it has a problem in it or not, so it either needs to be sent away for testing or replaced.
The O2 sensor fault may not be the sensor itself, it may be the wiring going to the sensor, or it could be the catalytic convertor, so check both of these.
All the best,
Sue
Dear Sue,thanks again for answering,the actuator is hard to believe that is not good,turbo was send to specialists and they changed inside turbo everything and test it with actuator on bank probe and say thats no need for actuator change that this is good,they send pe paper with turbo passed tests in parameters…it is a common issue with aome wires at o2 sensor?if the turbo with actuator is indeed good what to do…we perform a manual cleaning to DPF with special solution and the dpf was clean…it is so strange because we can’t do anything because we dont know what to do more….
Hi Finca,
If you are confident the turbo boost actuator and turbo are working correctly then check:
– for leaks and air restrictions on the intake;
– for a fault on the EGR valve;
– for low oil pressure.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue , yes the turbo is good with actuator,tested,now i take your advice and my mechanic take out the catalytic converter and Particule filter and send it yesterday to a special company to clean them up,the Particule filter was clean at finish on pipe,maybe to clean but in the other side when it is coming from catalytic converter is black,and the catalytic converter was black inside full of black..i hope this will be the problem..we check the EGR on computer it is working,opening,and no leaks,we check all the pipes
Hi Finca,
The engine light does not always come on even though there are faults on the diagnostics. Hopefully you have solved the problem with the catalytic convertor.
All the best,
Sue
I received the answer…the catalytic converter was ok,it is clean now , but the DPF was 68% full..and now it is clean,i hope that was the problem,my mechanic will do the job and put them back and will see…i hope will be ok after that
Hi Finca,
We hope it does solve your issue. Let us know how it goes.
All the best,
Sue
This is unbelievable…same…power engine reduced…error p0131 … turbo is ok,catalytic converter and DPF are like new,egr working,airflow sensor new,o2 bank 1 sensor 1 new…dont know what to do…i m tired and frustrated….
Hi Finca,
You need to go back to your codes:
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0299 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition
Are both these codes still showing, or just the P0131?
If it is just the P0131 you need to check the O2 sensor wiring, if the O2 sensor is new and the catalytic convertor is fine. Can the diagnostics read the data from the O2 sensors?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,now we have only the p0131 error and power engine reduced no engine light on only on display,the o2 is new,bosch,i think i can see the voltage or something from 02 sensor,but i dont know what values must have…it is possible to be from fuel filter?,but i change it last year in august..
Hi Finca,
You need to focus on the error code. Check both of the sensors on live data on diagnostics and check the wiring for each.
All the best,
Sue
I will,but i write again how is doing maybe we missed something..when the car is still u can accelerate how much you want it goes to 4000-5000 rpm no problem all day,but when I leave i can go around 100-200 m till rpm goes 2 or 3 times between 2000-3000rpm when is automatic changing gea and then power engine reduced..but if i go on highway and put engine quickly after 3000rpm lets say in 2 gear/3500rpm/60km at hour is going ok if i can carry same speed same acceleration..it is bad because i dont have an exactly electric scheme from o2 sensor..from electric o2 connector till..i dont know where it goes the wires…
Problems with sensors can cause all sorts of issues as they revert to a default value (which may be good for normal driving but not for starting for example). You can get the wiring diagrams from the Haynes manual – https://haynes.com/en-gb/land-rover-freelander-nov-06-14-haynes-repair-manual.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,so we change the fuel filter and the air filter(last change was in august 2017) only around 5000 km from then…but surprise now i have p0299 turbo underboost condition-and error power engine reduced ..but we found if we unplug the conector from acceleration i have this error power engine reduced when i plug it back error disappeared,and now it is interesting —— when i pull out connector from acceleration under egr,if i try to delete error power engine reduced is not working…when i put back the connector the error disappears..it is possible that valve to be stucked???now receive the error only when the car is under acceleration for a time after 4-5 seconds
If the acceleration is more than 4-5 sec i get the error,but now sometimes disappears sometimes not..but if i unplug the acceleration conector from that valve i have same error no more than 3000rpm when i put it back no errors
Now even if i plug the connector out and in nothing…the error still here….
Maybe because the error is already stored in computer and it is impossible to delete himself ?
Hi Sue,same error p0299 turbo…but i don’t understand turbo is ok…but i get the p299 error only when the car is under boost conditions like foot on acceleration down continuously for 4-5 sec…
i have a Freelander 2 HSE 2008 2.2 engine diesel 112KW with 147k km..and i m verry disapointed and dont know more what we can do…here is my problem
If the car stay still there is no problem at all,we can accelerate from 100rpm to 4000 rpm all day no problems at all but when i go with the car somewhere between 2000-3000 on automatic i receive power engine reduced,the gear is changing but i cant go far and i get power engine reduced..if i go on manual and pass over 3000 rpm lets say in 2 gear and with 3500 rpm is going ok …
first i receive p0131 error i changed with 0281004564 part no bosh o2 lambda sensor(i hope this one is ok because at the store they told me there are 2 sensors same thing one longer one shorter i mean the wire and i was buying the expensive one…)
the turbo i send it to specialists they changed all inside,test it all is ok
we dont know what to do more…
now i have 2 errors
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
and p0299 turbo…but this one is like new…
Hi Finca,
This sounds like an issue with the turbo boost actuator which is situated on the turbo. When they replaced the innards of the turbo did they also replace the boost actuator?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,thanks for your promt answer but i have been told that the turbo from my lr freelander 2 hse 2008 2.2 diesel have some electronic thing..i dont know mine have boost actuator?…sorry i m just asking i dont know so much about cars…expecialy mine…:)) but i m so sad i payied so much money on car and i was using only 6 months…and i like this car so much…i trying to help mechanic to find what is wrong….my turbo have a boos actuator or is only electronic ? or …
Hi Finca,
It has a turbo boost actuator, which is an electronic actuator, on it. This is the part which is most common to cause an issue. Unfortunately it only comes as part of the turbo itself. So if, when they reconditioned the turbo, they only replaced the innards of the turbo and not the turbo boost actuator which is attached to it, then this could be what is causing your issues.
All the best,
Sue
but how about that error? p0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 …i replace the o2 sensor and i see i got the same error…and if that actuator boost it is ok what to do?what to search?:(( it have only 147 000 km…im so upsad i dont know what more to tell the mechanic to search ..
And they said it test the turbo with actuator on bank test…can they mistake?its possible to not see the actuator error on tests?
Hi Finca,
Do you still also have the P0299 fault code? This is a turbocharger underboost condition, which could be a turbo boost actuator fault, since this is fairly common on these vehicles. If you have already replaced the O2 sensor and are still getting the same error then it makes sense to look at the turbo boost actuator (a more common issue than the O2 sensors).
All the best,
Sue
Yes,i changed the o2 sensor,bosh new…my mechanic asks if we pull put the electric conector of actuator from turbo what will happen?or…how we can see if the actuator is working or not?thank you so much Sue for promt answers …thanks so much for you try to help us
I asked the mechanic about this and he said that the company who rebuild everithing in turbo said the the boost actuator doesnt need to be changed,they send me an paper where was turbine tested and was passed …it can be that actuator and they didnt notice that?if this is malfunctioning is possible to have this simptoms?when car is still you can accelerate at different rpm and have no problems and when i go to receive this problem?
but how about that error? p0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 …i replace the o2 sensor and i see i got the same error…and if that actuator boost it is ok what to do?what to search?:(( it have only 147 000 km…im so upsad i dont know what more to tell the mechanic to search ..
Hi sue,
I have a problem with my freelander 2 2.2TD4 2008, I was driving to work and It went sluggish and died on me, when I got towed home I noticed there was no fule at the mechanical pump, could this be the fuel pump in the tank gone? Or is there something more simple that can stop the fuel getting to my high pressure pump?
Mark thanks
Mark donoghue
Hi Mark,
First try changing the fuel filter. If this does not work you will need to remove the pump and check the camshaft that drives the pump has not sheared off.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks sue,
What dose the pump in the take do is that just a low pressure pump?
Hi Mark,
Yes, the pump in the tank is a low pressure pump.
All the best,
Sue
Hello team..
I have 2012 freerander 2 and as I drive it marks and then stops as if diesel is finished. When I start again it has a hard start and I I’m forced to pump on the accerelator several times before it finally picks.after a few Miles that same happens all over again.please advice
Hi Moses,
This sounds like an issue with your fuel filter. Change this and make sure the fuel system is bled after changing it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hey guys I have a 2003 2.5l v6 gas engine! When I turn it on It has no problems at all but when the temperature start getting warm I press the gas and the car won’t hold the Rpm goes from 1000 to almost 2000 and drops again and again ! After couple minutes just turn off ! No problems turning the car on again ! Just changed the fuel filter and work fine for 5 min and it does it again! Did the scanners d shows P0102 and P0123 what should I do ?
Hi Franco,
The possible causes of the P0123 are:
Faulty Throttle or Pedal Position Sensor or Switch;
Dirt or carbon in the Throttle Body;
Obstruction to throttle pedal;
Chafed or corroded Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor, wiring, or connections.
The possible causes of the P0102 code are:
Faulty mass air flow (MAP) sensor
Intake air leaks
Dirty mass air flow (MAP) sensor
Dirty mass air filter
Mass air flow (MAP) sensor harness is open or shorted
Mass air flow sensor (MAP) circuit poor electrical connection
The MAP is on the throttle body.
Issues with the MAP can cause the stalling, and a faulty throttle position sensor can cause the surging, so you should check out these parts and their associated wiring.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thank you so much for your help ! I’ll check everything and I’ll let you know ! Awesome ??
It’s a pleasure Franco.
Hi Sue.
My Freelander was recently involved in a minor crash where my airbags from the dash and steering popped. I have had the airbags changed. The vehicle was difficult to start, but could be started by connecting it to another running vehicle through jump cables. We thought its the battery, so we got a new battery. But it doesnt start now and keeps cranking. The diagnostic tool is showing two fault codes:B10A2 (Crash Signal) and B100A (Fuel Pump authorization). It keeps cranking, but doesn’t start. Can you please help and guide us? How can we clear the crash code and also the fuel pump authorization code? Its not the immobilizer as I have locked it and unlocked it before trying to start. Any help will be highly appreciated.
Many thanks.
Regards,
Jay
Hi Sue,
We recently got a Freelander 2011 which had minor damage to driver side with the main front dash airbags deployed. The car initially started using jump cables connected to another vehicle. We thought it’s the battery causing it to not start. The freelander doesnt start not. It keeps cranking. I used my Delphi 2014 tool to check for fault codes and could see two codes mainly:
Hi Jay,
The crash code cannot be cleared by a standard diagnostics. If you can get it to your local dealer they should be able to clear the codes.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue.
I work on most Land Rovers and I must admit Freelander V6 is the most difficult car of all. Engine issues are tricky but we can manage.
However, we can’t contain transmission issues. The highest mileage the gearbox seems to achieve is 127,000 kms then transmission jerks and shows the usual F4 on dashboard display in mornings.
We’ve only managed to solve the gearbox that has harsh gear changes by changing some solenoid valves but not F4 issue.
How do we sort this?
Hi Steve,
Often the F4 is also connected with the solenoids, so the first place to start is testing all the solenoids to see which are out of range. It is worth doing a diagnostic check on the transmission ECU as the F4 should bring up a fault code. Most of the time with the Jatco gearbox it is a solenoid issue, very occasionally it is a cracked cup.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Have 2007 freelancer TD 4,car cut out,replaced tank,pump,sensors,now when it reads oater tank,cot out,why
Hi Tony,
Has the fuel filter been replaced? Have you checked the throttle body?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
Gauge reads 1/4 ,but cuts out,replaced pump/sensors,can it be a faulty gauge,as everthing has been checked,apart from pump/sensors what could problem be?When i open to refuel then seems to have lots of air in tank
Hi Sue.
I have been reading through some of the comments on this page and some of them have been a little help, but I’m still not sure on what to do.
I recently purchased a Freelander 2001 Petrol 6cyl series. It was running perfectly through town, but my partner and I were on a highway trip and suddenly I’m having problems. The revs in the car limited and the car started jerking down through the gears until the engine died and the check engine light came on. At first we thought it was because the intake hoses to the throttle body had been zip tied and the ties snapped causing the hoses to slip off the throttle body. We got new clamps for them and the clamps are tight and holding nicely but we’re still having the same issue. We replaced the air filter and while my partner was doing that we noticed the there is a black sludge substance leaking from my throttle body into my intake hoses. We thought we had cleaned it out and the car was running fine for about 2 weeks until it did it again. The black sludge is inside the throttle body and intake hoses again and we can’t seem to figure out what is happening with it.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Zara
Hi Zara,
Your Freelander would run fine even without the air duct pipe, so it is not this which is causing the problem. The sludge in the throttle body and intake hoses is also normal, so this is not what is causing the problem. The problem sounds more like a fuelling issue. Since the check engine light came on there should be a fault code stored, so it is worth putting it on diagnostics to help point you in the right direction. Check if the fuel filter has been changed recently, it is also worth cleaning out the wire mesh which is situated at the bottom of the cream canister inside the fuel tank.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello Sue,
This has to be the longest comment thread I’ve ever seen on a Web pase. It’s really very kind of you to answer all this questions. Thanks so much.
I have a 2007 freelander 2,TD4, DIESEL, MANUAL. Today when towing a loaded trailer over a hill I lost all acceleration. Engine was still running but no revs from pushing accelerator pedal. I turned it off for a few minutes was fine again. But after a few minutes it did the same thing. I had a friend take the trailer on their car, and I made it cautiously over the mountain range. Once down on the flat I tried accelerating hard and again it lost all power.
I suspect it’s the fuel pump dieing. I gather there’s at least 2 if not 3 pumps. Do you have any suggestions? If it’s obvious a particular part needs replacing, can you please give me an estimate of what it might cost for parts? Plus the shipping to New Zealand,.if it’s a part you can supply.
Thanks very much,
Jonathan
Hi Jonathan,
We are here to help, so no problem answering any questions.
The problem with your Freelander 2 sounds like the turbo boost control solenoid which is situated on the turbo. If you put the Freelander on diagnostics it should confirm this. The problem is the solenoid is part of the turbo and not generally sold separately (I believe some companies are repairing them now but we have not tried any of these services), hence, to replace the solenoid you have to replace the whole turbo. We can supply a turbo for £666.67 plus £95 shipping to New Zealand.
There is only one fuel pump on your Freelander 2.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Hi Sue,
Thanks very much.
So am I understanding correctly that a faulty turbo solenoid will cause the accelerator to completely fail? I had no idea! I am glad I asked. Does that mean for the carburetor to receive gas it depends on the turbo solenoid functioning?
It’s an expensive repair. Once that solenoid starts playing up, is it something that’s more likely to occur when the car has been running for a while (working and getting hot) , or can the fault just kick in at any time?
Regards,
Jonathan
Hi Jonathan,
It is not a complete fail of the accelerator as such. What it does is put the Freelander into limp home mode, which limits the acceleration and just gives you enough power to drive gentle. It will not be very responsive at all, but you can often get some speed up by just very gently pressing on the accelerator. This is to protect the Freelander from any additional damage.
There is no carburettor on the Freelander 2.
Once the solenoid starts to play up it can go into limp home mode at any time, especially when put under load.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
That’s good to know. It’s quite a major limp when it happens s. As far as I could tell there was no acceleration happening at all when the issue occurred. Turning car off and then on made it go away. Would the dash give some kind of indication car is in limp mode? Nothing at all showed up each of the three tim it occurred.
I gather there will be some error codes, even if no error or issue was indicated whilst driving. So I’ll see if one of the local mechanics has the means to read them. The only other time I had them read was on the other side of the abovementioned mountain range I almost failed to cross. 🙂
Hi Jonathan,
When was the fuel filter last changed? If it has been a while it could be worth doing this first.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
It’s due for its 10 year service, so fuel filter would have been changed whenever that was last scheduled.
Does limp home mode not display any indicator on the dash?
If the issue is the solenoid, will that show up in the diagnostic codes?
Thank you… Jonathan
Hi Jonathan,
Usually you would get a reduced performance message when it goes into limp home mode, but we have known it nor do this.
Yes, the solenoid should show up on diagnostics. have you had it on diagnostics?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
I’ll be having someone do the diagnostics this week.
Coming back to the fuel filter question. Looking at receipts, I gather it was last replaced in August 2013.
How often do they need replacing?
Also, I notice the issue seems to occur only after quite a bit of driving. For instance, if I just get in from cold, and drive a little, and then push it fast, the issue doesn’t seem to occur. When it has occurred is after I have been driving some distance. Having said that, I’ve only got four instances to based that assessment on. 1) The first failure when towing the trailer over the hill; 2) Accelerating hard at the end of the trailer towing trip (without trailer at that point), when almost home; 3) Attempting to (gently) cross back over the hill, it stopped once things got steep; 4) Driving to my mail box (about 1.5 km) and accelerating hard on way back, the issue did not occur (this is the one instance where the car was relatively cold due to short slow drive).
Thank you,
Jonathan
Hi Jonathan,
The fuel filter should be changed every two years on a B service, so it would be worth doing this now.
When we had the turbo boost solenoid issue with our Freelander 2 it only seemed to do it after driving for some time. Most of the time using it locally we never had any issues, but when we did a long trip it would go into limp home mode.
Let us know when you get the codes from the diagnostics.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Please let me know how much it cost to replace the whole fuel system of a 2004 Td4 auto 88000 on the clock. One time, petrol was put and since then there has been problems. Could replacing the entire fuel system be the solution?
Hi Solomon,
The things which are generally affected by putting petrol in the TD4 are the low pressure fuel pump, the high pressure fuel pump and the injectors – so these are the things you would change. Unfortunately these are not cheap items and the parts alone will be almost £2,000.
If you send me your chassis number I can get you a precise quote – are you looking just for the parts or for fitting too?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, I have FL1,td4-2005 and about 160k miles, everything started with prob.that motor wouldn´t start neither stop issues. until it won´t start at all…they changed startmotor and it started poorly after that as well…didn´t noticed any missfunktion when driving…one of the days it stopped on the highway and it leaked diesel as hell and it won´t start..it seemed to leak from diesel highpressure pump..so it they changed it..after fixing that it did not run perfectly only with 3 cylinder..so they open the cylinderhead and changed the whole cylinderhead to new but,the latest symtom is that she runs 10 minutes and suffercates and dies…you will wait a moment and start again goes 10 minutes and dies..and so on…What can cause this?
new start,new highpressure dieselpump,new cylinderhead… but it runs only 10 minutes 🙂
Hi Rami,
This sounds as though it could be the low pressure fuel pump situated under the rear right hand wheel arch. When was the crank case breather filter last changed? If it has not been changed in the last 12 months then this could also cause the engine to suffocate.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
I have a 2000 TD4 auto that’s covered 65,000 miles. The car seems to run fine until it’s doing around 70mph when going uphill. The car just loses power (and speed) and even with foot flat to the floor, it will not rev any higher. Once on the flat, it all goes back to normal.
Having done some research on the Internet, it could be one (or more) of several things. What’s the best order to start changing things?
Many thanks,
Trevor
Hi Trevor,
Check the small vacuum pipes first.
It could be worth putting on diagnostics as this may help to point you in the right direction.
It could be the low pressure fuel pump or the in-tank fuel pump, so it could be worth checking the pressure from these.
These are the most likely causes. If these do not solve it please get back to us.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a 2003 Landrover Freelander TD4. After driving for about 30 Miles, the car loses power. If I stop the car for 30 minutes, the car will drive fine until it gets warm – then it loses power. I have changed the high pressure pump, low pressure pump, EGR, fuel sensor and diesel filter and yet the problem is still there. What could be the problem?
Hi Danson,
Try disconnecting the MAF and see if it runs better, if it does then the MAF is your problem.
If not then it could be the turbo boost solenoid.
All the best,
Sue
From what u wrote about your ride I would have to say it’s ur catalac converter bro still some holes in it but first disconnect it if u can some were between motor and catalac converter u should know right then if you found the problem I hope this helped
Hi. I have a 2004 1.8 petrol Freelander. It has always been a bit sluggish on the hills but recently even worse especially when not warmed up. The Engine management light comes on and I have to drop a gear to stop it flashing (or sometimes it stays on). When warmed up it still feels a bit lumpy (almost as if not firing all cylinders) and fuel consumption has gone down. Have checked plugs, HT leads and replaced air filter and recently had timing belt changed. Any ideas?
Hi Chris,
Have you tried changing the fuel filter/ It is also worth cleaning the wire mesh which is in the bottom of the fuel filter / pump canister inside the fuel tank as this can make it very sluggish, particularly when under load (i.e. up hills or on hard acceleration).
With regard to the engine management light coming on it is worth putting it on diagnostics to see what error code is being recorded.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have 2001 Freelander 1 V6 Auto which is having trouble when cold starting. runs rough for about 5 seconds then clears up and runs normally. It is only happening when the car is parked for the night and start-up in the morning. Any idea what this could be?
Hi Ray,
If the rough running is like a misfire then check your spark plugs, coils and HT leads.
If the rough running is a rattle then it could be your inlet manifold.
If the rough running is a tapping noise then it could be the hydraulic lifters.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue
– not like a misfire
– not like a rattle
– not like a tapping
I’m probably not explaining the symptom clearly enough. It’s like the idle drops almost to the point of stalling then resumes to normal. This all happens in about 3 to 5 seconds. The rest of the day is fine, never happens again and the car runs normally.
Hi Ray,
It could be the throttle body or one of the sensors, potentiometer or idle control valve.
All the best,
Sue
Hi, Sue!
I have a 2003 Freelander 2.5 and can was working fine but for half year I haven’t touched it, just parked and now I when i try and start it, the rpm won’t hold, it drop to zero and shut off by itself. Just put new battery also. Could that be something related to the fuel pump that is underneath the rear seat?
I also made a video of this: https://youtu.be/FssA_Z6noc8
Thank you
Igor
Hi Igor,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
This could be the idle control valve or a failing fuel pump.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thank you for this write-up Sue. Hope you are still monitoring this thread. I have these exact symptoms in our 2002 HSE FReelander with the KV6 motor. The only troubling thing is that it is wildly inconsistent. Sometimes it works fine. But usually it occurs under duress such as when towing though not always. It seems flakey so I wanted to replace it.. Anyway, you mention this is located under the rear seats. Does that mean it is accessible from inside the vehicle? Also, I see that there is a tank seal that should be replaced as well. Do the new pumps come with this? Lastly, should the fuel filter also be replaced at the same time and where is that located on our car? I have also heard that the multipoint injector assemblies go bad on these cars as well. Our gas mileage has been getting steadily worse and the car starts kind of rough.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank (which is accessed from inside the vehicle under the rear seat – lift up the seats and pull back the carpet and you will see a plate for access to the fuel tank). It is a canister which houses both the pump and the filter, so it is worth replacing the whole canister. The tank seal is not included with the fuel pump and filter canister.
We have not had common issues with the multipoint injector assemblies, what mileage have you done? Sometimes fuel consumption rises if your viscous coupling unit (VCU) is at the end of its useable life and is putting a strain on the drivetrain. If you do a full lock turn, preferable on a loose surface, does the Freelander feel like it is holding back on you, a little like the brakes are on? If so then you need to change the VCU, and this will be causing the increased fuel consumption.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks Sue. Car has about 100K miles. 2 more for you – is the fuel filter located inside the pump housing or is that in a different location? I presume that it is recommended to also replace that when the pump is replaced.
Off-topic question but I cannot seem to find information on how to change the units from km to miles in the dash. Holding down the tripometer reset button as someone suggested does not work. Any ideas?
Hi Jeff,
The fuel filter is inside the fuel pump housing, so both can be replaced at the same time.
Unfortunately, as far as we are aware you cannot change from km to miles on the Freelander 1’s unless you take it to Land Rover to do it.
All the best,
Sue
my freelander td4 2001 rear fuel pump taken out filter cleaned working fine front pump checked and cleaned new filter plenty of fuel to outlet on filter new cam sensor fitted td4 works perfect pulls well no missing turns over wont start saving up for new sensor and wire how much thanks martin
HI Martin,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
It does sound as though it could be the fuel pressure regulator wiring loom or the sensor itself – it is worth changing the wiring loom first. If it is not this then it is likely to be an injector.
The fuel pressure regulator wiring loom is £48.19 + VAT (£57.83). The sensor is £220.28 + VAT (£264.34).
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
error code p1260 cam and crankcase sensor fit aa says only error code still wont start
Hi Martin,
This sounds like the fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom (or sensor itself). If you do not have the uprated wiring loom fitted then you should change this and clean the sensor – hopefully that will solve the problem.
All the best,
Sue
hi ,I have a 2000 model freelander 18 petrol,it was running fine but yesterday start knocking and went off ,today it started and it would not take gass then it went off and doesn’t want to start again ,I changed the fuel pump but still the same ,can someone help pls tnks
Hi Godwin,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
Where does the knocking appear to be coming from? Is it the top of the engine or the bottom?
Have you checked the rotor coupler and arm?
Are you getting spark and fuel to the engine?
It could be worth doing a compression test.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi
I’m getting this jerking on my Freelander TD4 (140,000 miles)
It jerks on harder acceleration or when going up inclines and the engine warning light flashes on and off.
If I take it easily, light accelerator etc it runs smoothly.
Could this be a fuel pump problem too – or is it more likely to be turbo-related?
Cheers
Mick
Hi Mick,
It does sound like a fuel pump problem. Normally it would be the low pressure fuel pump but it is also worth checking for leaks on the high pressure fuel pump.
All the best,
Sue
Thank you so much for your advice.
Much appreciated
Mick
hey i have a 02 free lander that is gas engine (v6). I has no codes but it has a sputter and it will get worse at times..(idle for a long time, or climbing hills).
Hi Dustinr,
Try changing the fuel filter. If this does not solve the problem try cleaning the wire mesh situated inside the canister which is located in the fuel tank.
All the best,
Sue
thank you for the reply… i have took the fuel pump out and cleaned the filter that is attached to the pump..(is that the wire mesh?).
by what i understand this model only has 1 filter and it is located in the fuel tank attached to the pump and is was very clean.
Hi Dustinr,
No, the wire mesh is in the bottom of the canister, it is not a fuel filter.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I have a Freelander 2,5l v6 from 2002. I had hard time to started
every morning. After first start no problem to start all day long.
But first time I need to try 6-7 times before I succeeded to started.
But is starting in 3-4-5 cylinders not 6 and at the exhaust in
smelling at petrol. I change the IAC (inlet air control valve) but
still same problem. Same time I can her some noises coming from the fuel pump but I tested and is doing correct pressure.
I will like to inform that I’m using GPL in my car but is starting with petrol not GPL. I stop the GPL to test the engine but same problem.
Please help me to solve the problem. I’m living in Romania and I will
try to coll you tomorrow morning
Hi Dumitru,
Thank you for your call to Nobert this morning. If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
All the best,
Sue
Hi
I have a 2004 freelander TD4. Lastnight then engine cut out whilst driving aling – almoat like when you stall an engine.
No warning lights came on. RAC came out. Tried to turn it over – was very sluggish and would not go. Put a boost pak on, had a bit more get up and go but would not fire.
There first thoughts were seized engine but oil and coolant both spot on. Took oil filler cap off and said engine was turning over.
Any ideas? The RAC man said he was stumped in the end as he had seen nothing like this before, and said the engines are pretty bulletproof.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Hi Peter,
Is the low pressure fuel pump priming when you turn the key on? If not then it is the low pressure fuel pump. If not then it could be the high pressure fuel pump (check for any leaks around this).
Do you have the uprated fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom fitted? If not then this could cause these types of issues.
It is also worth checking the camshaft sensor although we would expect this to cause a warning light to come on.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
mytd4 diesel cranks but won’t start at first I took off battery teminals and it started now it wont.i noticed some fuel diesel on injectors .it was diagnosed but no problem was detected .its 2litre diesel year of manufacture 2000 js received it from uk
Hi David,
The low pressure fuel pump is on the right hand side, just below the L-shape ECU housing, can you hear this priming when the ignition is on? If not then this will be your issue.
All the best,
Sue
Hi everybody!
I have a problem with my 2004 TD4. When cold, the engine would have almost 30 seconds with fluctuating revs, after that will run smoothly. After running for 20 miles and stoping the engine for 10 minutes at least, the engine will not start, after trying to start( 5-7 fails )the engine will start only if I push the throttle pedal to the metal. The engine runs smoothly, it has power, no error code, the car runs even with 100mph on the motorway. Thank you in advance! Kind regards, Alex!
Hi Alex,
It sounds like your low pressure fuel pump is failing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi I have a hippo on an 02 plate with a td4 in it I am having problems with it loosing power after about 5 minutes running on the road the problem started after I took it off the road to change the transfer box and rear diff .when I stripped it to remove the box there was a lot of oil in the turbo pipes so I replaced the turbo with a new one. Once back on the road the problem started loosing power I have changed all the filters,the maf sensor the boost solinoid the turbo vac pipes and both fuel pumps the one on the wing and the one in the tank I tried removing the maf sensor wires this just puts the engine management light on and does not improve any thing but there are no codes and no management light on when it looses power it will accelerate to about 50mph but very slowly and won’t pull away.if I stop and let it tick over for a second it is fine again but then comes back any ideas
Hi David,
Have you got the uprated fuel pressure sensor wiring loom fitted? If not then it is worth trying this first – this is a good upgrade even if it is not directly attributable to this issue. If this does not work then we have known problems occur when replacing the MAF with another original one and it can usually be sorted by fitting a Pierburg MAF and RON box.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello sue
I have freelander 2006 v6 petrol, it a started when I refuel full tank. Its started loosing power and jacking in hidling. I changed spack plugs and breaks stopped working normal. It is indicating a code of misfiring a cylinder 3 and 5. The car some times goes off itself when come a stop, the other code is fuel bank reach limit. What can be the solution please?
Hi Simon,
It sounds more like poor fuel or even diesel in the Freelander. If you are confident the fuel is good then try changing the crankshaft position sensor.
All the best,
Sue
Please help me. I have a FL2 2008 2.2 td4, 47000 km. Four times I’m walking normally and simply cuts off the engine and the performance reduction fault appears. After the problem, alone, twice, a few days later it works normally and doing nothing.
I already changed fuel filter, engine oil, throttle body and once scanner showed failure in the crankshaft sensor (I have already replaced), but the fault came back to happen. Normally after about 5 or 10 minutes of operation.
When the car is running it is perfect, good performance and no noise. But suddenly it stops working. The scanner does not show any deflection. The repair people are specializing in LR, but have never had a similar problem.
I do not know what else to do …
Best regards, Adriano from Brazil.
Hi Adriano,
Have you checked the turbo boost actuator and the turbo itself? These are known to cause issues and can put the Freelander in limp home mode and bring up the reduced engine performance message.
All the best,
Sue
Dear Sue,
My vehicle is a Freelander V6SE 2004 LHD LF53TYW engine# 25K4FP68267921 – about 62,000 miles
Happy to find your site as I am in the South of France and driving back to UK in 3 weeks with a trailer and a little apprehensive with an issue that is manifesting itself.
Reading your notes I suspect the fuel pump could be failing as the engine stutters in the range 48-55 mph and is a bit sluggish from time to time going up inclines. It does not seem to be electrical/plugs or dirty fuel.
Where is the fuel pump located?
Would you be able to ship one to France – she has been an amazing work horse for the 3 years I have owned her.
My other concern is that it could be a timing belt issue given the mileage/year.
Many thanks for your guidance.
Anthony
Hi Anthony,
The fuel pump is situated in the fuel tank underneath the rear seats. A new fuel pump is £234.16, shipping to France is £20.
It is possible that it is the wire mesh inside the canister in the fuel tank which has become blocked so it could be worth cleaning this out and fitting a new filter (although if you are going to purchase a new fuel pump then it will come with a new filter).
The timing belt is supposed to be changed every 6 years or 72,000 miles, whichever comes first. Since your mileage is low you would be going by time, so it should have been changed in 2010 and 2016, if it has not been changed in the last six years then it is certainly overdue for a change. The timing belt going does not normally give you any warning, it just snaps.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi I got a1.8 freelander it starts and wont keep runing can you hellp
Hi Mark,
Does it cut out immediately or only when you put your foot on the accelerator? Are there any other symptoms? When did it start, had anything been doen to it?
This could be a sensor issue. The best thing to do would be to put it on diagnostics to see if there are any codes.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, great site i just stumbled across. seems you really know your stuff.
We noticed a shudder a few times as if my FL2 2008 td4 was going to cut out. Later last night she just cut out while driving on the highway. ignition still on.
When i pulled over she started but ran really really rough and then cut out. she didn’t start after that.
Towed home and wondering where to look first.
Please help :((
Thank you so much in advance.
Hi Garth,
When was the fuel filter last changed? Check this first. It is possible the camshaft on the fuel pump side has broken as the fuel pump is driven by the exhaust camshaft. This can be checked by removing the fuel pump and checking the camshaft.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I have a 1800 petrol freelander1 on a 03 plate I have a problem with the code for misfire on number 2cyl I have changed all plugs new coils new filter the car runs great and has done for the last 3 years its just that I can’t get rid of the management light
Hi Vincent,
Even though the Freelander is running fine if the error code will not clear there must be an issue of some form there. You could try doing a compression test on the cylinders, also check the injector for that cylinder. The other thing which could cause this code is the O2 sensor.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thank you sue will try
Hi!
Please help us with the problem with my dads 04 freelander td4 with bmws M47 engine.. When the vehilce speed goes over 60 mph or if you drive with constat high rpm for about 10 seconds, the engine check light with exclamation mark in the middle comes on and car looses power, it feels like the turbo doesn’t spool anymore (the turbo was refurbished a good year ago, and normally works fine. If you than turn the car off and on again, it works fine, until you do one of the two thing mentioned above.
My mechanics has no idea what the problem is (yes I know, I should probably change it…) so I just want to make sure it isn’t one of the pump… One of them was allready replaced a few years ago, I can’t remember which one, but I believe it was the one in the fuel tank… The car also has 183k miles on the clock…
Looking forward to your advice!
Hi Timej,
This sounds like an issue with the low pressure fuel pump situated under the rear wheel arch. When you changed this was it for a genuine Land Rover pump? If it is not the low pressure fuel pump it could be the high pressure fuel pump situated in the engine bay.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Dear Sue, thank you for your reply.
As far as I know, the low pressure fuel pump was allready replaced, it was either genuine Land rover or with something the same or better quallity.. I spoke to my mechanic today, I mentioned the pump, and he told me that the yearly service is comming up and that he was going to replace the fuel filter anyway, since firstly it’s time to do it and secondly, to see if it makes any differenc… After that, we will have to do further investigating.
I also read on some other forum, that the problem may some vanes that go into the turbo get dirty and stuck and something about map sensor and some flap staying open all the time and it than gives full boost when it’s not suppose to (on highway), the car than goes into limp mode and limits the amount of the fuel.
Best regards and thank you for your help
Hi Timej,
There is no MAP sensor on the Td4 Freelander 1 it is a MAF sensor and if this was a problem you would have no power. There are also no flaps on the inlet manifold of the Freelander 1 TD4.
If you are convinced there is not a problem with the low pressure fuel pump then check for leaks on the high pressure fuel pump.
All the best,
Sue
Dear Sue!
Thank you for your explanation, the car is going back to mechanics to fix this… The fuel pumps will also get a lot of attention in the diagnosing procedure…
Thank you again!
Hi timeJ
I had exactly the same problem, and toyed with changing quite a few things. I would check your hoses for holes in the first instance. Then the next step I took was to replace the turbo boost solenoid. This sorted my issue, and was reasonably easy to replace myself. I also replaced turbo vent filter for good measure. Also easy and cheap to replace.
Thanks
Craig
I’ve a freelander td4 2.0 diesel 2002 Model.It has been showing these symptoms for three months.
Late starting,after 10 mins on road as the heat guage reaches on half the car starts missing,nomatter how much u accelerate it don’t go forward more than 30 miles/hr,sometimes throw heavy black smoke from silencer,later it started burst the turbo pipes etc.
In short it became a headic.
I went to a few workshops but they couldn’t handle it.
The scanner showed an error “low fuel pressure” when i saw this,i asked a machanic to check the fuel injection pump,he told that it is not working properly(not producing pressure)so it should be replaced,ok fine,I ordered a new pump which cost me almost 1000$ but yesterday when they fitted the new pump it didn’t work.
The new pump is also not making fuel pressure,maybe because of some sensor which has not been figurd out yet.
Now what should i do?
Hi Amel,
This sounds like an issue with your low pressure fuel pump, not the high pressure one. Black smoke is usually caused by a split in a vacuum pipe or turbo hose.
A couple of other things to check is if you have the modified fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom fitted, if not then it is certainly worth doing this even if it is not the cause of this particular problem. Also, have you had your crankcase breather filter changed recently – it is best to fit the BMW version of this so you do not have the issue of the filter suffocating the engine.
All the best,
Sue
+44 780 9575 421
Hi there
Looking for some insight please. I have a 2002 Freelander Diesel. It was blowing some dark smoke so had it checked. Was advised 2 x injectors were blocked. Then, 5 days later the car wouldn’t start. AA came and said the low pressure fuel pump was the issue – which wasn’t picked up in the diagnostics report. Are these two issues inter-related? If the injectors are replaced, should this rectify the fuel pump issue?
Many thanks.
Hi Melissa,
The injectors and the fuel pump are not inter-related.
An injector issue could cause it not to start. You should check if the fuel pump in the engine bay is priming when you switch the key on. If it is not priming then it needs replacing.
The smoking could be caused by a split in one of the turbo pipes so make sure these are checked.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue
I have a mk1 1.8 freelander, I had it gas converted about 4 years ago and run it mostly on gas, apart from initial start up. It takes a few turns to start and is a bit lumpy till its warm, then it clicks over to gas. Now for the problem it started running badly on petrol, feels like fuel starvation, click it back to gas and it runs fine, well it did! but now its getting a hesitancy/ miss at 2000rpm on gas, its fine below this and above. any ideas?
Regards Neil
Hi Neil,
Have you had the gas system serviced and flushed? If not then it is worth doing this. Otherwise it could be that there is a little dirt in an injector.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi, i have a 2002 v6 2.5l freelander petrol. When the car is stationery it will chug and cut out, as im driving the revs will either really increase or will drop completely and the car will lack power. This doesnt happen all the time.
The engine light comes on and off depending on how the car is running. Have had the exhaust system compleely changed could this be the fuel pump
Thanks
Hi Tony,
This sounds more like an issue on the ignition system than the fuel system. Since there are so many components to the ignition system it is worth putting it on diagnostics to see what codes are being logged. If it is not clear from the codes please let us know what they are and we will try to help identify the problem.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
I’ve a freelander 2001, V6, Patrol 2.5L
1) I got my radiator hose changed, by a mechanic, now the car doesn’t starts, as the engine do crank but doesn’t fire up. An auto electrician has suggested that “Camshaft position sensor” needs to be replaced.
2) Just before this happened I realised one more problem, the car didn’t deaccelerated few times, even though I left the accelerator pedal (the car was not on cruise control), hence I had break hard, stop the engine, start again and then it’ll act normal.
3) There is one more problem I’m facing since few months, in the morning when I start the car, (it’s and auto), the car wont shift the gear, then with a sudden thud, it’ll change gear and the display will flash F4 and “Amber” light of hill descend will be on. After I drive the car for about 2-3 kms, completely halt the engine, re-start the car, then everything will work fine, all the gear change are normal. This started happening after one of the mechanic took off the “drive shaft”
Please guide.
Thanks
Manny
Hi Manny,
Which driveshaft did the mechanic remove? If it was the gearbox side, which oil did he use for the gearbox and how much did he put in? If the wrong oil has been used or there is not enough oil then this could cause your gearbox fault. If the oil is correct and it has the correct amount in it then it is worth testing the nine gearbox solenoids to see if any are out of range.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi sue I have a 2001 kv6 freelander car was running and driving fine then my partner went to move the car and when she started it it souned like a tractor lol now wont fire at all just wines over any idea what the problem could be cheers
Hello Damin,
Sorry to hear about the problems with your KV6. Is there any coolant left in the header tank? If not then it may have gone into the engine and be hydraulicing. If you still have coolant check if the timing belt is still in tact.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I have a 2005 FreeLander with the 2.5l v6. It running rough and lacks any power. It’s throwing a lot of codes. where is the best place to start.
5 Confirmed Trouble Codes Trouble Codes:
1. P1300 Check report for description.
2. P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
3. P0313 Misfire Detected With Low Fuel
4. P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
5. P1477 Check report for description.
—-Pending Trouble Codes Scan Report—-
2 Pending Trouble Codes Trouble Codes:
1. P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
2. P1477 Check report for description.
Thank You,
Robert
Hi Robert,
Check your lambda sensors are in range and check the catalytic convertors.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Can my ecu sill work if no codes come up then a code po313 come up
Hi Sean,
P0313 is a misfire with low fuel fault, it does not affect the ECU.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
It had new pump in it but sill doing it
Hi Sean,
The P0313 fault, you need to determine which cylinder is misfiring. Then check the coil, HT lead and spark plug for that cylinder, and check the compression.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hie my Freelander 1.8 pump produces a funny noise at initial start and when driving if the noise comes the idling becomes erratic , what could be the problem
Hi Eddie,
It sounds as though your fuel pump is failing, the best thing would be to change it.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi, I have seen with interest your page, and it’s really good. I own a Land Rover Freelander petrol, and I read with interest any possible resolution. My car now has more than 200.000km, some problem happens. These are the reference data of my car:
Version: 1 ‘Series (Mk1)
Set up: ’00 -’03 (1A000001)
Frame: 3 Doors, Soft-Top
Fuel: Petrol
Displacement: 1.8 (1,800cc)
Transmission: Manual
Let me ask you an opinion, on the question that I recently.
It happens that the accelerator does not respond fully, quickened when the machine tends to fade. This happens even when stationary, as if it’s struggling to stay on. I checked the spark plugs and coils, the exhaust system is almost new, you think it would be the fuel pump or filter? There are some sensor or indicator that can help me? This problem does not always happen, it happens that perhaps does not happen in the afternoon, while the morning is very frequent (almost every day). I use the car for a short time, about 10km. I to try to keep the car on durening the run, by turned down shift gears and increase the acceleration (over 3000RPM), but it is hard anyway. I have no light on in the control panel, or other problem, and I fixed the head-cylinder head gasket 3 months ago, made by a mechanic. Do you think it might be the fuel pump?
I thank you in advance for your assistance, I appreciate so much who gives me some help if possible.
I really hope in your response.
Hi Joyce,
This does not sound like an issue with the fuel pump. The things to do are:
1. Check for any vacuum leaks;
2. Check your idle control valve;
3. Clean the wire mesh filter which is situated inside the cannister in the fuel tank.
Hopefully one of these will solve the issue.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Congratulations on a wonderful webpage.
I have read through most of the posts above but can’t really find an answer to my specific question.
I have a 51 plate Freelander TD4. It broke down a week ago with a P1260 fault.
So the fault in low fuel pressure on the low pressure side. So I thought it must be the fuel pump under the bonnet by the fuel filter. (Which has been changed recently). So changed the pump but it still will not start and still records the same fault code.
So my question is this. On this year of vehicle there is also a pump in the tank. Will the filter element in that pump being blocked or the in tank pump failing log the same fault code?
Regards,
Neil.
Hi Neil,
Thank you for your kind words on our site.
Yes, a problem with the in-tank fuel pump or the in-tank filter being blocked could bring up the same fault code or P1260.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Heya, I currently have a 1.8 petrol R reg freelander and it started misbehaving.
It started losing power when applying throttle and the more you gave it didn’t help at all to the point the car sometimes gets up to about 2k rpm but only at its best before losing all power and gradually coming to a stop and engine cutting out.
Hi Andrew,
This sounds like an issue with dirt in the wire mesh which is in the canister inside the fuel tank. If you remove the canister and clean the wire mesh this should solve the problem.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi , I have a freelander eds disel plenty of batterie life but would not start green flag towed me to a local gargage , the next day Theytold me they put a new batterie on and it was fine , I told them to put test and get back to me they did , and said I need a new fuel pump and filter ‘ they put this on , when driving it was making a noise took it back the put another fuel pump on same noise so they changed it 3rd Time for a bosch make noise has gone but batterie not holding it charge do you think they have not connected some think?
Hi Philip,
Have they checked if the alternator is charging the battery?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Sue,
Really good website.
I have a 2007 FL2 TD4 which I bought about 6 weeks ago from a non specialist dealer with 3 months warranty on it. The engine seems to misbehave between 1700 and 2000 revs. I’m not sure if it is a surge or a stutter. I’m about to get in touch with the dealer but wanted to be able to give them a steer if possible so that it can be sorted quickly. Does this sound like a fuel pump issue to you?
Also I’ve got a Disco 2 and a 90 and I wondered if the FL2 tends to be noisier in the drivetrain when you stop accelerating than the others. It could be the tyres which are quite new and look to be fairly budget but the car seems quite noisy when running without the pedal down.
Thanks
Nic
Hi Nic,
Congratulations on your purchase and we are sorry to hear you are having some problems already.
The misbehaving is unlikely to be the fuel pump, we have not really seen fuel pump issues with these models. It sounds much more like a turbo or fuel filter issue – if the fuel filter was not changed at the last service then it is certainly something to do now and see if it helps.
There should not be a lot of noise from the drivetrain. Does the noise appear to be coming from any particular part of the drivetrain, such as the rear, or is it just a general drivetrain noise? The rear differentials do have a weak bearing and if it has not had its rear differential replaced then it could be this you are hearing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks for the prompt response Sue.
All filters were supposed to have been changed at a precollection service, so presumably the fuel filter isn’t an issue. I did initially wonder if it was the turbo until I saw problems with the fuel pump (didn’t realise it was FL1 not 2). I shall get in touch with the dealer and let you know if they come up with anything interesting when they’ve looked at it.
In terms of the drivetrain, to me it sounds like it’s at the front. It just sounds very heavy when not accelerating. Not sure if that makes sense!
Thanks again.
Nic
Hi Nic,
If it is the FL1 2.0 Td4 rather than the FL2 2.2 TD4 then it could very well be the fuel pump or an injector. With regard to the drivetrain noise, if it is a FL1 and has done over 70,000 miles then you need to check if the viscous coupling unit has been changed. If not then it could be doing damage along the drivetrain.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Nic,
I think I may have misread your last message – you realise the fuel pump issues are the FL1 not that your Freelander is a FL1 (sorry, there are some around up to an 08 plate).
Make sure they did change the fuel filter with the rest of the filters.
All the best,
Sue
Thanks Sue.
I’ve booked it in next week. If they say anything interesting and I’ll let you know for your knowledge bank.
Nic
That will be great, thanks Nic.
Hi Sue,
I have a 2004 Freelander 2.5 V6. I don’t seem to be getting power to my fuel pump. I have checked the fuses and relays and all seem to be fine. There is no power getting to the inertia switch though, could this be the issue and can I by pass the switch some how. The vehicle has not been in an accident and the switch and loom all seem fine. I have removed the fuel pump and tried it on the bench and everything seems to operate ok. Any other checks you may think of would be appreciated.
Kind Regards
Rob
Hi Rob,
Follow the wire from the fuel pump to the fuse box and check this for corrosion. Any corrosion can be causing a short circuit in the system.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
I’ve got this Freelander 1999 1.8 manual and it is losing power when I have travelled for about 100k’s and usually after having stopped. Also, it is difficult to put it to any gear. Any solutions?
Hi John,
With regard to the lack of power check your catalytic convertor. If this is not the problem try cleaning out the wire mesh which is in the canister inside the fuel tank.
With regard to the difficulty in getting your Freelander into gear you will need to change the clutch hydraulics. Use genuine Land Rover clutch hydraulics as, in our experience, the aftermarket ones are seriously poor.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Su
Thanks for the advice. I will get to it then, however. I’Ve got an issue with my idling also, it is too high, it just happened a couple of weeks ago and did not go away since then. Tried cleaning the IACV, it worked fine for aliitle while but comes and goes. I have not change the O- ring yet. Will it help?
Hi John,
Changing the O-ring may not solve the problem but every little can help. It is worth checking the throttle body as sometimes they can get stuck on the flap. Also check the intake manifold gasket.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Sue,
I have been told my Freelander 1 (55 reg) requires a new fuel pump. The only symptom i am aware of is that it is leaking and leaving a nice puddle under the front of my car. I recently had the starter motor replaced, and the garage diagnosed the fuel pump for the leak problem. I have had quotes up to £600 to replace by a specialist – what should i do?
Hi Lauren,
Which engine does your Freelander have (petrol 1.8, petrol 2.5 V6 or diesel)?
Did they say which fuel pump needed replacing?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
It’s Td4 diesel.
Not had specific on which fuel pump, but i thought it was only one after 2003, mines 2005
Hi Lauren,
The 2005 Freelander Td4 has two fuel pumps, a high pressure one and a low pressure one. You would need to ask which one they say needs replacing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thank you that’s really helpful
Aggravated. I have a 02 freelander randomly shuts down , when you crank it back up it has no power a lil response from pedal I’ve changed the step motors on the intake and mass air flow any advice on this money pit would be appreciated.
O yes meant to say it’s a 2.5 gas engine
Hi Jason,
When did you last change the fuel filter? You can also check the wire mesh in the canister inside the fuel tank to ensure it is not blocked. If the fuel filter has been changed and the wire mesh is clean then it could be your fuel pump. It is worth putting it on diagnostics to see which fault codes you have.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi sue have changed fuel filter, injector pump, solenoids and still my Freelander td4 2.0 BMW diesel engine has the same problem of loss the power and showing check engine light, help please
I have a Freelander 2 HSE model 2007 TD 4 182000 km. For 2 ½ years we have had a problem no Swedish service station had managed to handle. From time to time and
irregularely the engine enters into low power mode. Stopping the engine and immediately restart usually solves the problem. Sometimes it does not and the yellow engine lamp ignites and reduced power mode is in operation — sometime the reduced power mode in not in operation and the yellow lamp is still on. Many times the yellow engine lamp switches itself off for unknown reason. Workshops seem to close the error code and we continue driving some months until the same problem and error codes come back again and again ……
Changing fuel filter twice a year seems to have minimized the problems — but then they came back again. The Landrover manual states max 5 % biostuff in the diesel but the EU approves 7 %. Could it have anything to do with that? There are also suppliers of diesel with HVO — but all of them claim that their fuel is OK. Actually we cannot go around when short of fuel to find a correct diesel fuel .. ??
The error codes we get are P0131 O2 heater circuit low voltage, bank 1 sensor 1,
combinded with code P2196 Oxygen sensor signal biased stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1 and lately code P244D catalyst temperature too high during regeneration bank 1.
It is always trouble-some to have these problems coming up especially if we are on long tours — and we now tend to only use the car for short trips.
Other problems Landrover in Sweden has not managed to solve are in the entertainment system ICM error codes UO186 Lost communication with audio amplfier, UO197 lost communication with telefone control module and U1A24 MOST ring complete. They just come back all the time.
We are now on our way after 9 years with same car to sell it as there seems to be too few Landrover 2 in Sweden and there seems to be no knowledge how to handle customer problems. Workshops does not seem to get enough experience. All they seems to help with is to connect the computer, find out they don,t know what to do and close the error code – suggesting proceed driving and come back if problems persist……….. and we do and then the problems come back…….
Could you help even if I am in Sweden?
What shall I do – scap the car. Otherwise — when we do not have these problems we have no problems with the car at all !!!!
Hi Lars,
We are sorry to hear about the problems you are having with your Freelander 2. The issue could be associated with the fuel however there is a good chance it is the turbo boost actuator, so it is worth changing this.
For your information to help your Freelander run cleaner and quieter (non DPF models only, which is what yours will be as it is a 2007) it is worth putting 0.25 litre of standard two stroke oil in with each full tank of diesel. The first time you do this it may run smokier and noisier for a couple of weeks whilst it cleans out the system, but after this the emissions should go down and it will be quieter.
With regard to the issue with your entertainment system you should first try fitting a second earth strap, take it from the battery to the gearbox housing, this can stop many gremlin electrical issues from occurring.
These are great vehicles so we hope you will keep her and whenever we can be of any assistance just give us a shout.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, Thanks for your advice.
We will change the turbo boost actuator and and attach the extra earth strap
and keep you posted if problems disappear.
The car was actually delivered in May 2007 and has the DPF (diesel particle filter)
Could this have any part in these problems?
You are right about the noise — When the car was new the engine had a very low noise pattern. Now it is more like a tractor.
The DPF had problems some 3-4 years ago but it was solved by a software change by Landrover and they have never occured again.
BRGDS Lars
Hi Lars,
Generally if the DPF was the cause it would bring up its own error and hence highlight it as a DPF problem, so it is unlikely to be the DPF which has caused these problems.
We would be very interested to hear how you get on.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
I have just acquired a face lift Freelander 2.5 V6 with 51k on the clock. When I got it everything seem to be fine, but after driving it for about an hour I put my foot down and it just didn’t go, it felt like it had fuel starvation,but no misfire. When I accelerated gently it was running fine. I know the car was sitting for about 7 months. Can it be fuel filter, sparkplugs, or it’s the fuel pump? After I got home I let it cool down, took it out for a spin, acceleration etc was fine, no signs of stalling.
I appreciate any comments. Regards, Peter
Hi Peter,
Congratulations on your acquisition.
This sounds as though you have either a blockage in the wire mess which sits in the canister inside the fuel tank (you can take this out and clean it) or a blocked catalytic convertor.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, Thanks for your advice.
We will change the turbo boost actuator and and attach the extra earth strap
and keep you posted if problems disappear.
The car was actually delivered in May 2007 and has the DPF (diesel particle filter)
Could this have any part in these problems?
You are right about the noise — When the car was new the engine had a very low noise pattern. Now it is more like a tractor.
The DPF had problems some 3-4 years ago but it was solved by a software change by Landrover and they have never occured again.
BRGDS Lars
Hi Lars. And Sue i am in tanzania i have a problem with code DTC HELP FOR FCDIM U1A24. Has this problem been fixed for you when you added another eartch strap.. please let me know cause my radio seems to work but no sound coming from the speakers
Hi Abdallah,
The code is U1A24 MOST ring complete, no communication. The MOST is a fibre optic communication protocol. The first thing to check is your fuses for the infotainment system. If all these are fine then you may find an issue with one of the fibre optic cables, because it is fibre optic you should be able to see light travelling down the “wire”. If there is nothing obvious it would be best to take it to a Land Rover dealer as they have special diagnostic tools to pinpoint the issues on these systems.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Lars. And Sue i am in tanzania i have a problem with code DTC HELP FOR FCDIM U1A24. Has this problem been fixed for you when you added another eartch strap.. please let me know cause my radio seems to work but no sound coming from the speakers…
Thanks in advance
Hi thanks for this website – its really useful.
I have a 2007 FL2 with 110k miles. All seems well but the engine seems to hiccup or splutter about 10 to 15 mins into a journey 2 or 3 times then returns to normal. No error codes or lights. Could this be the fuel pump? Car has reguarly been serviced.
If so what should I check or do next?
Hi Neil,
The first thing to do would be to change the fuel filter, it has been known to solve such problems.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Neil and Sue. I have the same problem Neil. Had the fuel filter changed. Had the problem for three years. No one I have spoken to two knows a fix. I believe I clear it by keeping the engine running at 3,500 for a mile or two as after this it goes away for days. Had a turbo oil leak last January and had all the Land Rover recommend parts replaced. The problem went away for four months (6000 miles). Thought it was fixed. It came back gradually. In the last two months it has go worse with multiply stuttering and the engine shutting down. This happen three times after repeated stuttering. First two times engine restarted immediately. Third would not start for ten minutes. Drove 1500 miles after this without a problem. Then eventually came back.. Need to get it fixed now or it goes and loath to get another one in case I get the same problem. I love the car but it needs to be reliable as I drive to southern Spain in it regularly. Have you freelander specialists seen problem before and if so do you have a fix? I definitely think it is fuel cut off related..
Hi Chris,
Does your Freelander have a diesel particulate filter (DPF)? Have you got a second earth strap fitted?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue sorry for not getting back to you sooner. It is a Fl2 2.2 first registered in 2006 (56 plate) . Not sure if it has a DPF fitted don’t think so cause of its age and no second earth strap. Do think the the earthing could cause this sort of problem? Drove the length of the M4 last week with no problem, drove back this week and the problem was there for the entire journey. The problem feels like you suddenly you hit a wall-it can throw you forward at its worst.. Then it carry on fine.
Hi Chris,
Not having the second earth strap can cause all sorts of strange issues, so it is worth doing that.
We have known DPF be installed on an early model Freelander but it is not common, so if you are not aware you have it and there are no warning messages on the dash referring to the DPF then it is highly likely your Freelander does not have it.
It is worth checking the turbo boost actuator as this can cause fairly random instances of going into limp home mode.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks for the suggestion of the second earth strap I will have have my local garage fit one were does it go exactly and can they be bought for land rover? The actuator was changed two years ago.
Hi Chris,
Take the second earth from the battery to the gearbox housing. You can get any auto electricians to make up the earth strap for you.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Historia, how much does a selenoid kit for a 02 Freelander costs?
Hi Minor,
We can supply the nine solenoids separately. If you require all nine of them we can do a full kit for £387.14 including VAT.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I have just brought a 2004 freelander td4 and the problem I seem to be having is on rare occasions whilst I’m driving the car it will drive fine then will start to take ages to build up speed, but if I switch it off and start it back up it seems to clear. Been told could be fuel pump and if so how do I test to see if it is ? Thanks
Hi Nick,
This could be the fuel pump, the turbo boost actuator or perhaps a leak in one of the vacuum pipes. So worth checking all of these. With the fuel pump the only real test is to test the fuel pressure.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
can you get a freelander td4 2001 cruise control kit thanks martinn
Hi Martin,
There is no Land Rover kit for retro fitting cruise control to the Freelander 1. I have, however seen an aftermarket kit fitted to the TD4, so they must be available, a web search has brought up http://www.conrad-anderson.co.uk/wizard/cruise-control, we have not had any experience of these so cannot vouch for them. In addition people have managed to fit the Land Rover parts to the TD4 auto and it has worked, check out this thread – https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-fitting-cruise-control.186205/.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi,
I have a 2001 TD4 that has a malfunctioning fuel gauge, the gauge remains at the full level no matter the actual fuel level, occasionally however the fuel gauge will move toward the correct fuel level then will slowly return to the full mark. Any assistance appreciated.
Regards
Colin
Hi Colin,
It sounds like a problem with teh fuel gauge in the fuel tank. You could try cleaning it, otherwise it will be a case of replacing it.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi,
I have a bit of a power problem with my 1.8 GS, it seems to be fine accelerating from 1st through to 2nd how when i apply power from 3rd to 4th something feels like it s holding the car back…..it is particularly bad on long inclines.
I have a new fuel pump which has been changed, the coils and Ignition cables have been changed as well as a new lambda sensor….none of the above have clear the problem.
any thoughts???
matt
Hi Matt,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
Do you find you have the problem more when the Freelander is hot and / or has under half a tank of fuel? It sounds like there is dirt in the wire mesh which is situated in the canister inside the fuel tank – this is the most common problem when you have these types of symptoms. Cleaning the mesh should solve it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hello, you changed my cylinder head on my 1.8 petrol freelander three years ago. I have only done about 12,000 miles since then. I notices on the motorway yesterday that the temp went up to the red mark, as soon as this happened i turned on the heater and turned of the motorway and the temp gauge went back to normal . i dove it carefully another 8 miles home and the temp gauge stayed normal . I have put about three lts of water into the header tank and then run the engine , no leaks that I can see but pink coolant was coming back into the header tank from the small overflow tube. The oil level is no higher on the dipstick and no signs of frothy oil. I did check the heater but no hot air coming out when engine and the temp gauge is running at normal temp when running on my drive . look forward to your comments.
Regards
Mark Kennett
Hi Mark,
Thank you for your message and your telephone call this morning. As discussed on the telephone this sounds like a problem with the thermostat. If you change this and the coolant reservoir cap (genuine Land Rover cap) and bleed the system this should solve the problem. If you have any issues whilst doing this, or if it does not resolve the problem, please get back in touch.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue.
Thank you for your help, I changed the thermostat last night, bled the system and all looks good so far.
No leaks and temp running at normal .
Just one other item, is there an method of taking the rear passenger door panel off without damaging it ?
The window has dropped and will not go back up .
Thank you.
Regards
Mark Kennett
Hi Mark,
Excellent.
With regard to the tailgate door panel, undo the three screws at the bottom right hand side, then pull (tug) from the bottom of the panel to bring it off the snap clips. It should then come away freely.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue.
I think the expansion tank cap is leaking as I am still loosing coolant, please can you confirm the make of expansion tank that you fitted when you changed my cylinder head.
Regards
Mark
Hi Mark,
Genuine Land Rover cap and tank. If it has been under excessive pressure at all the cap can lose its ability to hold the pressure so it is worth trying to change this first. How much coolant is it losing and when? Have there been any other symptoms?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I did order a genuine landrover cap but it was far to small, I did place some rolled up kitchen roll around the base of the expansion tank and the following day the paper was wet with pink coolant, and as there was still some coolant in the tank which makes me feel it is the cap leaking.
Nobert fitted a larger expansion tank which had a large cap fitted when he changed the cylinder head.
The cap is approximately three inches in diameter .
Regards
Mark
Hi Mark,
As mentioned on the telephone the header tanks and caps were upgraded by Land Rover and the latest ones are much bigger. Since they will have ordered your cap according to your chassis number they will have got you an old style one. If you ask for the new header tank cap from Land Rover you will get one that fits.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421