You hear a lot of horror stories about the Freelander 1 – repeated head gasket failures; complete drive trains destroyed; engines blown up … – are they really THAT bad?
The first thing to realise is that not all Freelander 1’s are made equal. Within the Freelander 1 range there are four different engines:
- the DI diesel Freelander (produced from 1997 until 2000 with a 2.0 litre Rover L-Series engine);
- the 1.8 petrol Freelander (produced from 1997 until 2006 with a 1.8 litre Rover K-Series engine);
- the TD4 diesel Freelander (produced from 2001 until 2006 with a 2.0 litre BMW M47 engine);
- the V6 petrol Freelander (produced from 2001 until 2006 with a 2.5 litre Rover KV6 engine).
The drive train for all Freelander 1’s is based on an IRD unit at the front (the equivalent of a transfer box); a viscous coupling unit in the centre of the prop shaft and a rear differential, quite clearly at the rear. Apart from some minor differences, particularly with the V6 Freelander, this drive train is the same across the range of Freelander 1’s.
So what is it that causes so many problems with the Freelander 1’s? What is it everybody seems to be complaining about?
The common faults with the Freelander 1’s can be split into three categories:
- Drive train issues;
- Engine issues;
- Electrical issues.
The Freelander 1 is a brilliant 4×4, extremely capable off road – it will give any Defender a run for it’s money – with the massive benefit of being an incredibly comfortable vehicle; no bouncing up and down hitting your head on the roof in these! However, some owners experience massive failure of the drive train, followed by an equally massive hit to the bank account to put it right. Complete destruction of the IRD and / or the rear differential. Why? Is this a fault of the Freelander 1? No. There is absolutely no problem with the Freelander 1 drive train design; nor is there a weakness in the system which causes it to fail. All of these drive train issues are caused by a failure in communication. Yes, you read correctly, a failure in communication.
There are two common causes of the unfortunately all too common drive train issues. The first is the viscous coupling unit (VCU). This innocent looking unit actually has a life span, in our experience it is approximately 70,000 miles. Because it is a sealed unit it is very difficult to test if the VCU is due to be changed and the most reliable way of protecting your drive train is to bite the bullet and change it every 70,000 miles, just as you would a timing belt. The communication problem is that it has never been included in a service schedule, as the timing belt is, and hence many owners are not aware it needs to be changed. The result? It tightens up, puts strain on the drive train and destroys, generally the IRD unit. If this change was on a service schedule the Freelander itself would not be criticized for the resulting failures.
The second drive train issue is caused by mismatched tyres. There is only a 5mm tolerance in the rolling radius of the tyres and if mismatched tyres are driven on this can destroy the rear differential in as little as 5 miles. Although the Freelander hand book does specify that all four tyres should always be replaced together, unfortunately many tyre fitters are happy to replace just two at a time – even just one if you insist! Again not the fault of the Freelander, we need those that serve us to understand the catastrophic effect of creating a mismatch by only replacing one or two tyres.
So far our Freelander is innocent. The drive train problems are caused by a lack of communication.
So now we come to the engine problems. There are four different engines, so here you have to judge each Freelander individually.
The DI diesel Freelander, with its old style diesel engine and minimal sensors, is an absolute workhorse. If this was the only engine in the Freelander range we would be out of business! No common faults here. This Freelander is definitely innocent of all charges so far.
Now we get to the 1.8 petrol Freelander. Unfortunately we do believe this is the Freelander which caused all Freelander’s to be charged with being “THAT” bad! But is it really the fault of the Freelander? The Rover 1.8 K-series engine is a magnificent piece of engineering, used extensively in racing for its incredible lightness. It did, however, have an initial design fault. The cylinder head gasket was just too flimsy for the Freelander and the use of plastic dowels did not help. This has caused pretty much every 1.8 Freelander to blow the head gasket, usually by 70,000 miles. But a solution was soon found in the form of a modified multi layer steel head gasket with steel dowels; with this fitted properly all the problems go away. So why do some owners experience multiple head gasket failures? One reason is some garages have fitted another SINGLE layer head gasket when they have done the replacement – bound to blow again! The other reason is, once a head gasket has blown there are many parts of the system which can be affected, even more so if sealing liquids have been added to the coolant (the Freelander’s hate these sealing liquids); and if all these affected areas are not addressed and rectified then further problems with the cooling system can occur, which can ultimately lead to another head gasket failure. Just putting in a new head gasket is not a total fix once a head gasket has failed. In addition using blue or green coolant, rather than red, can erode the head gasket hence causing head gasket failure. The 1.8 Freelander is guilty as charged as it does have an inherent issue at manufacture; however repeated failures are not the fault of the Freelander.
The TD4 diesel Freelander is probably the most popular of the range. This is a much more complex engine than the L-series diesel, and hence, as with any modern vehicle, does tend to have a few more issues – many of which are caused by sensors! The low pressure fuel pump has a shorter life span than would be ideal, however we would generally say there is only one major problem these engines have, which is over and above what you would expect to see from any other engine, this is the problem of the engine being suffocated and eventually being completely destroyed. What causes this? It is caused by the failure to replace the crankcase breather filter when the Freelander is serviced. Now this breather filter is on the service schedule, so we cannot blame communication this time. We generally only see this problem when the Freelander has been serviced by a generalist garage. It is evident that some generalist garages do not realise this filter exists (it is tucked away at the rear of the engine) and fail to change it. Once again, the TD4 Freelander is innocent of all charges so far.
The final Freelander up on charge is the V6 petrol Freelander. This is the one with the power. A beast of an engine which really does need a specialist and specialist tooling to fix it. This one will put a smile on your face as you drive down the road, but will it get you where you want to go? As the name implies the V6 Freelander has a six cylinder V engine. The main issue with these engines is that the thermostat is in the centre of the V – where all the heat is – and is encased in a plastic housing. This means it can be prone to leaking. In itself, changing a thermostat is not such a big deal, however, if the owner does not notice the loss of coolant this can result in head gasket failure, which on this engine is a big job. So is the Freelander V6 guilty as charged? If you check your coolant level regularly it would not be a big deal, but we admit there is an inherent issue there.
On to the final category of common faults, the electrics. In this category are the sunroof, the electric windows and the central locking doors.
The sunroof does cause a problem on the Freelander with many owners finding closing it up, taking the fuse out and pretending they never had one being a lot less stressful. The problem, however, is caused by our winters and some servicing. If the sunroof is not greased at the services and is not opened and closed regularly, the result is that it rusts and seizes. Our beloved Freelander is innocent.
Sorry Freelander, we love you to bits, but when it comes to windows and doors you are GUILTY. Be prepared for the wires to snap on the window mechanisms hopefully leaving your window up rather than down. Be ready for one or more doors to refuse to unlock / lock when you press the central locking buttons and if you have never had any of these problems you are blessed.
Before delivering your sentence on the Freelander 1 remember that all vehicles have their foibles; you are never fully aware of them until you research or own one. In addition, if you read all the forums do remember people generally go to a forum because they have a problem, you will not find many owners without problems posting there. There are forums for every vehicle, all full of owners with problems.
We are FreelanderSpecialist.com, we have worked on nothing but Freelander’s for many years and we love them. We don’t love them because they give us an income, we love them because they are fantastic vehicles; they are comfortable, stylish and extremely capable. We love people who love their Freelander, and we will do everything we can to help you keep it in tip top condition and avoid all of the issues above; from regular tips on our Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/FreelanderSpecialistcom/130199136593 and articles here on our website www.freelanderspecialist.com, to email (sue@freelanderspecialist.com) and telephone (+44 780 9575 421) support. But if you do get caught out we are always here to carry out repairs and we specialise in reconditioning all Freelander engines and drive train items.
Sue & Nobert
FreelanderSpecialist.com
Hi guys. I want to by a reconditioned Freelander engine. Now i have a dilemma on whether i should buy a 1.8 K Series which i used to have but gave me too much trouble or i shud get a DI diesel engine which according to u is a trouble free workhorse. Help me to decide pliz. I want something that wont stress me yet a bit fast in terms of speed
Hi Clarence,
Is the engine for an existing Freelander? If so which engine does it have in it at the moment? It is not easy to change an existing petrol Freelander into a diesel one, or vice versa, even if you have a complete donor vehicle.
The most reliable engine is probably the 2.0 DI in the early Freelander 1’s, however it is not fast, it is much more agricultural than the other engines.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Dear Sue
Hi I am from Kathmandu in Nepal.
I am planning to buy a used Freelander 1, 2006, td4, HSE, with 45000 km on the clock. Please could you advice me on the checks that I need to make on the car? Also at a later date would you be able to help me with any spares that I may need?
Thank you.
Ananda
Hi Ananda,
Congratulations on your decision to purchase a Freelander, they are great vehicles.
The main things to check for on the Freelander 1 TD4 are:
– All the tyres are matched – the same make, model, size, tread depth remaining and air pressure. If they are not matched then make sure this has not caused any issues with the drivetrain – are there any noises from underneath when driving? If you do a full lock turn in first or reverse (preferable on a loose surface like gravel), when you take your foot off the accelerator does it come to a sudden stop, a little like the brakes have been applied?
– The mileage is low for this Freelander, but be aware you will need to change the viscous coupling unit every 120,000km.
– Has the crankcase breather filter been changed at the last service, or has it had the BMW oil separator fitted? If not then it is worth getting the crankcase breather filter changed as soon as possible, and preferably for the BMW oil separator.
– It is worth making sure it does have a prop shaft fitted, sometimes this can be removed and a new owner is not aware of it.
– Check that all the windows open and close and that all the doors lock and unlock as they should.
Otherwise, for this model, the main thing is just to make sure it drives nicely and has no unusual noises or smoking from the exhaust and no obvious leaks around the engine.
Certainly we can supply any spare parts you may need.
All the best,
Sue
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
+44-780-9575-421
Hello
Thank you
My vehicle is Rover Freelander Sport Limited Edition Fire & Ice, but don’t have any information on internet…
Hi Andrian,
What information are you looking for?
All the best,
Sue
Hello
I have a Free 2002 TD4 with 294.000 kms and confirm
you for all
it is not a so bad vehicule !
thanks
Alain
Thank you Alain. They really are great vehicles, so pleased you are happy with yours.
All the best,
Sue
Hello Sue
I have also a freelander 2 HSE from 2013 and 48.000 kms
it is also a fantastic car
in France a specialist Land Rover nearby has 3 months in delay for repair !!
but I know “others” and I can consult you in other case
thanks
Hi Alain,
They certainly are fantastic cars, great to hear that you love it, and we are always happy to help with any issues.
Happy motoring!
All the best,
Sue
While reading your article, specifically the following part : “The second drive train issue is caused by mismatched tyres. There is only a 5mm tolerance in the rolling radius of the tyres and if mismatched tyres are driven on this can destroy the rear differential in as little as 5 miles. Although the Freelander hand book does specify that all four tyres should always be replaced together, unfortunately many tyre fitters are happy to replace just two at a time – even just one if you insist! Again not the fault of the Freelander, we need those that serve us to understand the catastrophic effect of creating a mismatch by only replacing one or two tyres”, I came up with a question which has to do with flat tyres and generally, variations in tyre pressures. Are there any problems caused in the drivetrain ( mostly the rear differential) when travelling with one of the rear tyres having low pressure, or driving slowly for a few miles with flat tyre to the nearest tyre shop? I’m asking those things, as I seriously consider buying one used Freelander mk1 and I want to know my way around it. Also, what production year do you thing is the best for Freelander mk1’s ( after 2000??).
Thanks in advance,
Kostas
Hi Kostas,
Yes, a flat tyre or low tyre pressure can have the same effect as mismatched tyres since it changes the rolling radius of the wheel. Hence it is very important to regularly check the tyres pressures on your Freelander. If you have a flat tyre and you need to limp it to the tyre shop you would be much better to remove the prop shaft, this would ensure no damage can be done.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi
I am willing to buy a second hand 2000 hard back 3 door freelander. Which areas do I need to check before buying?.
Its a diesel engine (Believe 2.0)
Hi Nuwan,
At year 2000 it is on the cusp of the changeover from the L-series engine and the TD4 – if you have the registration number I can tell you which one it is and hence give specific advice.
The drivetrain for both engines is the same, and the most important things here are that the tyres are all matched – same make, model, size, tread depth remaining and air pressure – and that the viscous coupling unit (VCU) is changed about every 70,000 miles, to avoid damage to the rest of the drivetrain.
All the best,
Sue
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
0780 9575 421
I had a 1999 Freelander and there is / was a problem with the IRD – I had mine replaced under warranty. Apparantly they were originally made with the wrong gearing ratio, which meant the front wheels did not synchronise properly with the rears, causing the tyres to skid slightly on corners and cause serious uneven wear patterns. I was getting a rumbling sound, particularly from the rear and thought it was a bearing.
After a couple of visits and a letter of complaint, Hardwoods at Croydon got their head mechanic on it. He put the vehicle on a four post lift and let the wheels spin freely – you could actually see the dips and bumps on the tyres.
So a new IRD was fitted and I got a new set of tyrss at 50% cost.
Have to say it was one of the worst vehicles I’ve owned, although the Disco 3 I have now is running a close second.
Hi thinking of purchasing 04 freelander 1.8 Petrol , 3 door for £2275 at 50k what shall I look for when inspecting car , also mot advisory says near side front slighht binding ?? Am I buying trouble
Hi Colin,
Congratulations on considering purchasing a Freelander. The binding could be the brake pad carrier or the caliper, it should not take much to fix it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a freelander 2003 td4 serengeti and it keeps jumping out of reverse unless I rev to one and a half thousand for the gear to work any ideas whats wrong ?
Hi Kevin,
It could be the clutch hydraulics, a worn reverse gear or the clutch itself; although it sounds more like the hydraulics so we would recommend starting there.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
I am in South Africa and looking for a specialist in this part of the world. Do you perhaps know of any?
I need to replace my cylinder head.
Hi Bonginkosi,
Unfortunately we do not have any experience of a specialist in South Africa to replace your cylinder head I’m afraid.
Sorry we could not be of any help, however if the person you find to do it needs any advise please do not hesitate to contact us.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Dear Sue,
I replaced the VCU on my 2002 Td4 as you advised me some weeks ago and it runs much better now.
Thank you again.
Now it was time for MOT (called TUV) in Germany) and they made my vehicle fail due to the headlight leveling of both headlights isn´t working.
I checked if there is current on the cables and there is.
So I think there is something wrong with the leveling motors and here we come to my problem.
How can I remove the motors without damaging them or the headlights?
Many thanks.
Stefan
Dear FLspecialists,
Im from Brazil, and very glad to find this website!
So, Im having a problem with my Freelander 2.5 KV6 Petrol.
She have´s the “tappet noise”, when my mechanic checked the oil pressure with a manual gauge. It varies from 2Bar TO ZERO! when driving, apperantly im driving it in this conditions for about 3 months.
The strange thing is, besides the noise, the car doesnt have loss of power, or any other simpton that can indicates a worn internals.
Im buying a new oil pump to replace and see wath happens, do you guys have any advice?
The reason to go for a mechanic, is that “mayonaise” in the oil cap, so i already bought a head gasket kit to solve this.
thanks in advance, sorry for language mistakes!
Hello Leandro,
If you have been driving for 3 months with this noise it may not be the hydraulic lifters. Check that your intake manifold is not the one which is rattling. This sort of noise can also be caused by a big end bearing which has gone.
All the best,
Sue
breather filter for Freelander 1 td4 2006 model is very easy to change .I used haynes service manual to to all the services my self.
I have just brought a 2006 td4 and there are a few things I would like your advice on . First I have a manual sunroof t bar type and I have noticed when the car is parked down hill when it rains the sunroof leaks ,on the out side there seems to be some rust forming on the top of the windscreen any ideas ? Secondly I only have one key , I can buy a key/transponder off ebay but do I need to take it to my local dealer to get it programed or can I do it? and lastly when I accelerate or when driving about 60 mph I get a bit of vibration again any ideas ? thank you
Hi David,
Congratulations on your purchase.
There is an outer and an inner seal on the sunroof and it is liable to be one of these which has perished and is allowing the water in. Unfortunately the seals are never very cheap, you are looking at £98.61 + VAT for the inner one and £66.89 + VAT for the outer one.
Yes, if you buy a second key / transponder you will need to take it, with the Freelander, to your local dealer to get it programmed.
With regard to the vibration it is worth checking for play in the driveshafts.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks sue the leak was a poorly fitted wind screen it looks as if the roof had had a bang at some stage some how . when I took the head liner down the inner skin above the wind screen looked as if it had been straighten out with a screw driver not good
As for the vibration I am still looking in to that but every now and then when on nearly full right lock I hear two clonks from the passenger side only done it three time in the time I have had it
Hi David,
Good to hear you have sorted out the leak. Check your driveshaft and the suspension, particularly link rods on the passenger side – vibration is usually associted with the driveshafts.
All the best,
Sue
Dear FL Specialists,
I am thinking on buying a 2001 3dr FL1 with the 2.5 V6 automatic, with around 170 000 km (the number does not sound reasonable, so that gives me concerns). I have read a lot of things about the model, and I would appreciate, if you could double check my findings:
1; The cylinder head problem occurs, when the coolant fluid leaks and the engine overheats. If I check the fluid (which shoud be pink), I should see clear fluid and no oil or other extraneous liquids. In other cases, can the cylinder head be a problem?
2; The VCU unit should be changed in approx every 100k km. However it might occur that due to the automatic gearbox, it is still in good condition. The seller says that the car was not used off the roads. Is this a pro or a con in terms of the VCU condition?
3; The timing belt should have been changed at least once if the car has 170k km. Is there anything I can do to check the condition of the belts?
4; I should see 4 identical tires and not 2 (or more) different ones, otherwise the differential might have some wear issues.
5; I could not find much information on the gearbox. How often should the gear box oil be changed?
Do I miss something important from my checklist?
Thank you very much for your answers in advance.
Great and informative website!
Best regards,
Janos – Budapest, Hungary
Hello Janos,
You have been doing your research well, you certainly seem to understand what you need to check for and look after to ensure you get a good long life from a Freelander.
I would not worry too much about the 170,000 km, if the Freelander has been looked after it should have plenty of life left in it.
1. You are correct, the issue with the cylinder heads comes from a leak in the system Check the coolant on a regular basis and if there is a slow leak you should pick it up before it causes additional damage. The most common part of the cooling system which tends to leak is the thermostat housing which is situated in the V of the engine. We do supply metal thermostat housings which solve this issue, and, although not cheap (£295 for the thermostat and pipe kit), it is much cheaper than a blown head gasket! Yes, the coolant should be pink – it needs to contain Organic Acid Technology (OAT).
2. The VCU on the V6 Freelanders does seem to last longer than on the manual models. Just be aware that if it starts to tighten up when doing a full lock turn then it will be time to change it – often some of the first symptoms if a strain is being placed on the drivetrain from the VCU are damaged rear differential mounts or VCU bearings.
3. Yes, the timing belt should have been changed at about 120,000 km. Unfortunately, unless a sticker has been left saying when the timing belt was changed, it is very, very difficult to tell what condition it is in – they can look quite new but be ready to change. Damage from a broken timing belt can be catastrophic so it is better to be safe than sorry here.
4. Yes, you are looking for four identical tyres which look as though they were replaced at the same time. If there is any mismatch in the tyres take the Freelander for a drive around the block then go underneath and touch the VCU – be careful, it can get very hot! If the VCU is too hot to hold your hand one comfortably after a drive then it is likely the mismatch in tyres is winding it up and you will need to budget for replacing the tyres.
5. The gearbox oil should be replaced every 5 years or 100,000 km. When changing the oil make sure you use the Texaco N402, there is no substitute which will be satisfactory.
It sounds like you have covered all the important aspects. With the V6 Freelander, if you find it a little sluggish it could be the VIS motors on the inlet manifold which are no longer working – these are quite straight forward to replace. Also check if the inlet manifold is rattling, this is a more expensive issue as it is best to replace with a new manifold as it is a common issue so many of the used ones also rattle.
Good luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Dear Sue,
thank you for your prompt reply.
So far I could find out from the seller, that the timing belts were changed at 150 000 (according to the service records), so hopefully they’ll last.
The only question that remained is whether the VCU unit is working properly or needs a change.
Thank you for your professional answer, it helped me a lot.
Best regards,
Janos
Hi Sue It’ s month since I’ m owner of LR td4 produced in 2002 with three doors. From the first day I can’ t unlock back door, not even the key can help, simply it doesn, t react, so I can’ t use lugage space. Best wishes!
Hello Alen,
Congratulations on your purchase.
The lock on the tailgate door is purely for putting up the tailgate window, the key does not unlock it. The only way to unlock the tailgate door is by the unlock button in the dashboard or by the remote. If neither of these work then the problem is most likely with the door lock itself. You will need to try to get the inside door card off enough to get access to the wires for the lock. You may find just wriggling these wires could enable the door to unlock, otherwise you will need to disconnect them from the existing lock and rewire them to a new lock. This should then enable to door to unlock and allow you full access to replace the lock.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Can I remove my gearbox from a freelander mk1 1800 petrol and replace it with a 2000 gearbox I have removed propshaft so its front wheel drive only cheer Lee
Hi Lee,
If the gearbox is from the L-Series diesel Freelander (1997 – 2000) then that is fine, however if it is from the TD4 diesel Freelander (2000 – 2006) then they are not the same.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
What should I do, my freelander v6 engine block broke?
Hello Esque,
If your engine block is broken you will need to replace it. We can supply you with a reconditioned V6 engine if required, or with just an engine block.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, I have a 2006 TD4 freelander with 46, 000 miles should I be concerned about the VCU, and how much is the crank case filter you are talking about, also it locks on the remote but won’t open the drivers door but will open all other doors any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
David
Hi David,
Your mileage is a little low to be worried about your VCU. If you just note how it feels when driving on full lock (such as when reversing into a parking space) and if you feel it holding back on you, a little like the brakes are on, then it is time to replace the VCU, otherwise you should be fine until you reach the 70,000 miles.
The BMW crankcase breather filter is £39.04 including VAT – this is a much more robust filter than the Land Rover one and only needs cleaning rather than replacing.
The issue with your drivers door will be the actuator – replace this and all should be fine.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Please I have a Land Rover Freelander 2001 model. The car is ok on idle mode but can not accelerate. That is, the car will start but the accelerator is free and can not accelerate the car. Please advice
Hi Adamu,
Which engine does your Freelander have?
It is possibly a problem with the return spring on the accelerator pedal. If it is a petrol Freelander it may be the accelerator cable is broken. The diesel Freelanders are electronically controlled.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
HELP!!! I urgently need a second opinion!!
My girlfriend has a Freelander TD4 (2005) manual and she has just been told that the engine has ‘blown up’ and needs a replacement engine (eventually discovered that the garage (non specialist) had never replaced the crankshaft filter thus causing the usual syptoms with eventual total failure).
With this sort of damage will a replacement engine be the only solution? And roughly how much will this cost?
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Really sorry to hear about your girlfriend’s TD4. Unfortunately when the crankcase breather filter has not been changed this causes the engine to suffocate and generally the only solution is a replacement engine.
We can supply a reconditioned engine for £1,895 including VAT. If we remove the existing engine and fit the reconditioned one the price is £695 including parts, labour and VAT. Alternatively we can ship the engine to you, if you let me know where you are I can get you a shipping price.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Hi Sue
Very many thanks for your very prompt reply. Just a query on the prices you quoted. Do you mean that if I get the car to your facilities, the total cost for removal of old, supplying and fitting etc a recon. engine into the car (and retaining the old engine) is £695? How long would the job take?
Regards
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Unfortunately no. The cost for reconditioning an engine is £1,895 including VAT. This is an exchange engine, hence requires the return of your old engine, which is done either by us retaining it (or using your existing engine to recondition) if the Freelander comes to us, or by shipping it back to us if the engine is being fitted to your Freelander at a different garage. In addition to this, if your Freelander comes to us for fitting of the engine, there will be an added £695 for us to remove and refit the engine. If you are having the engine fitted somewhere else in the UK you are generally looking at a total of about £140 for us to ship the reconditioned engine to your garage and ship the damaged engine back to us (i.e. £70 each way).
We recondition our engines to order (never quite get chance to have one on the shelf!) and the whole process takes between 7 – 10 days, including fitting if required. The beauty of us reconditioning your existing engine, if it is suitable for reconditioning, is you will retain the same engine number.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Sue
First of all – have now redone my ‘sums’ and come to the conclusion that the total costs have made the project become unviable – from my point anyway. Very unfortunate but reality has to win over the heart!
Secondly I want to say to you a very big ‘Thank you’ for your prompt and very detailed responses. They were very clear and easy to understand and I recommend to any reader of this, that if they have a problem to contact you – you are a star!!
Your attitude to the customer speaks highly of the quality of your company’s workmanship and left me in no doubt that had I persued the venture I would have been a very happy customer! Thank you again
Jeff White – Somerset
Hi Jeff,
Thank you very much for your kind words. It is a shame the project has become unviable for you but totally understandable, it is a lot of money. If you ever have a Freelander again and need some advise please shout.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
We have just purchased a 1999 1.8 freelander but the steering seems very light is this a problem with the tyres or something else?
Thanks
Andy
Hi Andy,
Congratulations on your purchase. If the steering is light it is worth checking the wheel alignment. If this does not sort it check the steering rack.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks for your vivid explanation on the freelander 1. but what is the inherent issue you mentioned on V6 engine as you rightly admitted. Please i need a clear picture on this.
Hi Donatus,
The issue with the V6 Freelander is the thermostat housing and connecting pipes. These are made of plastic and sit in the V of the engine, the hottest part. Hence they are prone to cracking. We do have a modification which can overcome this issue and is a metal thermostat housing and pipes, they are not cheap at £295 including VAT but they are a lot cheaper than replacing the head gaskets!
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks for the clarification. I’ve been using only water all this while until i learnt recently that it is recommended to use red or pink coolant. Is it proper to mix water with coolant or 100% coolant?
Hi Donatus,
The petrol engines particularly do not like plain water or the green or blue coolant, it can rust the gasket from the inside. You need a red or orange coolant with OAT (organic acid technology) – the red coolant looks pink when diluted – You can get coolant which needs diluting or ones you use at 100%, check the label of the coolant you purchase.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
My V6 has already done 96,000 kilometers before i bought it and its now at 97,000 kilometers and still in good shape, i only did servicing as advised by the dealer but don’t know the history of the car. What do i need to change to avoid any breakdown? and what would it cost to buy any spares that i have to change.
Thanks & Regards
Hi Donatus,
What year is your V6? The service requirements are dependent on mileage or age – hence since yours will bei a low mileage Freelander your service requirements will go on age rather than mileage.
The coolant and brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years.
The spark plugs and auto gearbox oil should be replaced every 5 years.
The timing belt and water pump should be replaced every 6 years.
The poly vee drive belt should be replaced every 8 years.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Year 2000, which is about 15 years now. what about the thermostat housing and the connecting rods, timing belt, VCU and head gasket? do i have to change it? if yes what would it cost to buy the spares. Please advice.
Hi Donatus,
Generally you do not replace the thermostat housing and associated pipes unless they start leaking. We do, however, have an upgrade kit which is a metal thermostat and associated pipes, this is much more reliable than the plastic one and is a great protector to your head gaskets as the primary reason for these to blow is due to not noticing a leaking thermostat housing. The metal thermostat kit is £245.83 + VAT.
The timing belts and water pump should be changed every six years, so it depends when it was last changed. The total for the three belts, the tensioner, the idler and the water pump is £181.93 + VAT.
Your VCU should be good for another 23,000 km – in addition the V6 VCU’s tend to last longer than other VCU’s due to the V6’s being automatic.
The head gaskets would only be replaced if they blow. Unlike the 1.8 head gaskets the original gaskets are good enough and if the Freelander always has coolant (only use red coolant, not green or blue) then you should not have any problems. As mentioned previously the main reason for these blowing is due to a leaking thermostat housing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
Thank you so much. now i feel at ease but would soon order for the replacement parts for future use.
I have a 50th anniversary edtn 1.8 freelander. Love it and is perfect for driving our german shepherd dog around in. Removing the prop was the best idea anyone has had for it though lately its turned into a money pit (£2k to pass its last MOT). On the plus side, there isn’t much left to replace now so it should keep going for another 25 years right? Just wondering how quickly it should be getting through engine oil. There’s no visible leaks so I’m thinking that the garage forgot to fill it up when they flushed it 6 weeks ago (its totally empty now)?
Hi Frankie,
Great to hear how much you love your Freelander. Although an engine will use some oil over time you certainly should not be losing it all in 6 weeks. Has there been any other symptoms, black smoke, poor running etc.? Having filled it back up is it still losing oil?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
No other symptoms – no patches under the car, no smokiness, nothing in the water haha. Level seems stable so far – keeping an eye on it more closely than usual just in case though
Very wise, keep a very close eye on it for a while.
Hi Sue,
after 13 years of service my 1999 Freelander 1.8 is being consigned the off road in the sky. I’m looking to get another 05-06 model. I’ve two questions, are there any drawbacks with an automatic and likewise any pros and cons with the Sport model.
Regards
Des
Hi Des,
What a shame, but it sounds like you had good service from your old Freelander.
The Jatco automatic gearbox tends to be a little more temperamental than the manual gearbox. It can have issues with the solenoids which does not tend to be a very cheap fix. However, on the other hand, the automatics tend to be gentler on the drivetrain than the manuals (depending on how you drive a manual) and hence things like the VCU can last longer when you have the auto gearbox.
There are no clear pros or cons on the Sport model that we have come across, more a question of personal taste, the essence of the vehicle is the same.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
GLEN
Hi Sue
Because i have other vehicles ive only done 50.000 miles on my 2001 TD4 which ive had since new and love it. You say change the VCU at 70.000 miles but is there also a time limit on it. Thanks
Hi Glen,
Yes, time can play a factor, however it does not seem to be as clear cut as the mileage factor. The best thing to do is to drive it on full lock in first or reverse to see if it feels like it is holding back on you, a little like the brakes are on, if it does then get the VCU changed as soon as possible. If it still feels free then you should be fine for a bit longer. Just keep doing the test at regular intervals, you may be fine until 70,000 miles but there is a chance you will need to change it earlier.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello, I have a 2002 Freelander, Hse. Is this a 1 or 2? It is gasoline engine. Also, does the freelander motor sound different then a ‘regular” motor?There is a tick,tick,tick when idling. It sounds like lifters, but there are no lifters.
Hello Juanita,
Your Freelander is a Freelander 1. If it is the 2.5 litre V6 gasoline engine then the tick tick ticking is likely to be the inlet manifold, they do have a tendency to do this. They can be replaced but are costly.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue. Thank you for your reply to my question. I have an issue with my tail gate window. It went all the way down…and will not come back up. When I first started having issues with it, it would close at least 1/2 way. We tried to get it to work by using the key (recalibrate), but then it went all the way down and won’t come up. It goes beep,beep,beep. HOW DO WE CHECK THE ISSUE? I mean, how would we approch this ourselves? Could it be a sensor or how do we recalibrate? I can’t drive it for fear of rain or someone breaking in the back window. Please help. I just can’t afford to take it in to be fixed again! 🙁
Hi Juanita,
Remove the panel on the tailgate door. Unplug the wiring to the motor and check the wiring coming from the body to the back door for breaks / loose wires, as it sounds like a wiring issue. If you replace the wiring wait for 10 minutes before recalibrating and testing the window. After reconnecting the battery make sure the window is fully closed.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue.I have just aquired a 2003 1.8 Kalahari. Love it. However the cables snapped on the tailgate window mechanism which I duly replaced using a kit from” tinternet”.Many hours later it works (after a fashion). When I open the tailgate it doesn’t drop and I have to use the key to lower it then quickly shut the door to get a proper close. It goes down then up by itself unless I drop it fully, after which I can control it ok. I have tried the recalibration to no avail. I did take the motor cover off. Is it possible to refit the wrong way round?
Any advice before I pull it apart again. (The cable snapped with the window fully up)
Regards
Jeff Pattison. (Freelanders newest fan)
Hi Jeff,
Congratulations on your new purchase. They are such great vehicles we can understand why you love it.
Generally the tailgate window will not do it’s little jig to allow the door to open because the cable is not tight on the wheel. Try tightening this up and it should sort it out.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I have found your website really helpful on so many occasions. I bought my first 4×4 last summer with the intention of towing a caravan one day…..It was tatty round the edges but looked like it had a lot of potential as a 1.8 L 1999 50th anniversary edition with only 90’000 miles on the clock and a price tag of only £1000…………………We had a family picnic in the local hilly countryside recently on a very warm day and on the way home there was a knocking sound when cornering on tight turns……I thought it may be due to a tight VCU affecting the O/S/front drive shaft. I took the car on a very short drive a few days later and it felt like the front wheels were fighting with the back wheels or it was trying to tow a elephant who wanted to go in a different direction. I took the prop shaft off, the VCU and blanked off the IRD with the intention of saving up for a re-con VCU. All seemed well until I slightly overfilled it with oil as a front end wobble led me to believe it was thirsty. Driving home the other day it simply lost all drive power and had to get it towed home…………..I have tried to start it several times but to no avail…the ignition tries to turn the engine over…..any ideas ? I thought I was trying to avoid inevitable damage to the IRD and fear that my novice incompetence had done worse………
Hello James,
The knocking noise definitely sounds like you had a VCU or VCU related issue, so you did a good thing in removing the VCU and prop shaft to protect the drive train.
I assume it was the engine oil you overfilled. How much did you overfill it by? Normally overfilling the engine oil will blow the seals it will not cause the Freelander not to start.
The things to check for the non-starting issue are the rotary arm and the distributor cap. If both of these are operating fine then check the lead from the distributor cap to the coil pack for signs of bluey condensation.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Thanks for replying Sue…….I am a bit of a novice when it comes to mechanics but enjoy getting under the hood, learning and having a go myself. I put about half a litre too much oil into the engine and will do an oil change when the new washers and filter arrive in the post…..I will also change the spark plugs, as after reading your comments, I saw that oil has run into the plug immediately below the oil cap….If I get it going, I can then think about getting a new VCU……I hope the rear diff wasn’t damaged too…..also there is a little play in the front drive shafts to IRD/gear box bearings……is this normal (I can wiggle slightly not much)? I just assumed these would be solid.
Hi James,
Yes, the driveshafts are supposed to have minimum play, if they are not giving a vibration through the Freelander they could be alright. Good luck with starting it, if you need more help when your parts arrive please just shout.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
hi ive recently purchased a td4 2003 freelander, now and again the tc and hill decent light comes on, just the two,if i pull over turn ignition off then on again they go off, i got a data check a fault came up about hydraulic pump says 0, they said it maybe a fuse or the pump,could that be what’s causing the two lights to come on ,the freelander has done 169000miles no history ,how can i resolve this problem thank you. .Shaun
Hi Shaun,
The issue with your lights illuminating is most likely to be the brake light switch situated under the brake pedal. If you press your brakes when the TC and HDC are alight do your brake lights come on? The hydraulic pump is connected to the ABS system so it could be worth cleaning the ABS sensors.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi again, Juamita here. I own the 2003 Freelander HSE gas V6. Is this considered the Freelander 1 or Freelander 2? Does my Freelander have a drive chain? Is there a way to track down personal maintenance records that have been done to my Rover in the past? My Freelanders sunroof leaks although it is inoperable. It appears to be closed tightly but is there a way to find out why it leaks? We were thinking of putting a silicone bead around the window gasket to seal it. Do you think this is a good or bad idea? Thank you!
Hi Juamita,
My apologies for the delay in responding, we have been 4x4ing to and around Morocco in a Freelander.
Your 2003 Freelander 2.5 V6 petrol is considered a Freelander 1, the Freelander 2’s began in 2006 and have either a 2.2 diesel engine, a 2.09 petrol engine or a 3.2 petrol engine.
Your Freelander has a cambelt system (comprising or three belts, and idler and a tensioner) which should be changed every 72,000 miles or 6 years, whichever comes sooner.
Generally there is no way of checking the maintenance records unless it has been maintained by Land Rover all of its life, then you could ask them for the records.
To stop the sunroof leaking you would need to change the seals – it is a common problem. If you are not concerned about it opening your idea of using silicone should work.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi I intend buying a late Freelander TD4 model very soon. I have seen a few good examples with mileages around 65-77 K so I am likely to fall fall foul of cam belt and viscous coupling issues? A couple more questions: does the TD4 suffer issues with cylinder head and do HSE models have more costly electronic problems so should be avoided? Unfortunately Suffolk is a little far to travel. Thanks Ken
Hi Ken,
Congratulations on your decision to purchase a Freelander. The TD4 model does not have a cam belt it operates on a timing chain, so you do not have to worry about this. You will, however, need to change the viscous coup,ling unit at about 70,000 miles to avoid any issues with the drive train.
No, the TD4 does not have any cylinder head issues, the main thing with this model is to ensure the crankcase breather filter is changed at each service – or better still fit the BMW filter and just make sure it is cleaned at each service.
The main electronic issues with the Freelanders’ are with the sunroof, doors and windows, and these are common to all models, so there is no need to avoid the HSE model.
The Freelander is a great vehicle, I’m sure you are going to love it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I am now a couple of months into driving my 2006 TD4 HSE with 72k on clock and am very pleased with it. Bit smaller than my 300tdi.
I have had VCU changed as recommended so fingers crossed. One or two hoses are looking a little thin and worn around the edges so I am considering updating those. Are the “pretty” silicone any better than standard original parts. Also my “sensitive” alarm system keeps going off if I superlock it, once at 4am oops :(. Is this likely to be a door seal problem.
Best wishes
Ken
Hi Ken,
The “pretty” silicone hoses are definitely better than the standard ones so it is worth changing to these.
Have you tried changing the fob batteries for the alarm problem as these getting low can sometimes be the issue?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Sue.
No I haven’t tried batteries yet but I will.
Best wishes
Ken
Hi Sue
Sorry I forgot to ask something. When looking for replacement silicone hoses it refers to Freelander 1 “with and without sensors”. Am I right in thinking my TD4 06 HSE is “with sensors”?
Thanks again
Ken
Hi Ken,
Apologies for the delay in responding. Yes, your Freelander will need the hoses “with sensors”.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421