Is your Freelander’s clutch giving you problems?
Do You Want to make sure you don’t end up stuck in the middle of nowhere with no clutch?
We Can Help!
Our full clutch system replacement is just £910 incl. VAT.
What is included in my Clutch Replacement?
The clutch system on your Freelander involves the clutch kit itself and the hydraulic master and slave cylinder.
Since replacing the clutch slave cylinder requires as much work as replacing the clutch itself our clutch replacement includes replacing all parts of the clutch system including:
– the clutch kit
– the clutch slave cylinder
– the clutch master cylinder
Please note that it is recommended to replace the dual mass flywheel at the same time as the clutch, if this is required there will be an additional cost of £500 incl. VAT.
Our price for all this is just £910.
All prices include VAT
Since we specialise in these vehicles who better to ensure that your clutch is operating perfectly? We have the specialist equipment and knowledge for the job.
We are based in Norfolk, postcode IP26 4RH.
If you don’t have a lift home after dropping your car with us, and are looking to use public transport, we can drop you / pick you up at the railway station – our closest is Brandon, however if you are coming through London there is a direct train line from Downham Market which is not too far either. If Thetford is more convenient for you this is also possible.
We are rather in the middle of nowhere, but if you do need to wait for your car there are some pleasant walks in the area.
If your car does not drive and you need to get it to us to fit your clutch why not try:
- Phoning your breakdown recovery service, if you have one. These will sometimes transport your car for free, or at a reduced rate.
- Giving us a call on 0780 9575 421 and we will arrange to transport your car to us for a cost of £1.80 per mile (calculated one way only to IP26 4RH). We can organise collection from anywhere in Europe (ferry crossings will be charged additionally where applicable).
How long will it take?
To replace your clutch system generally takes less than 6 hours.
How can I pay for my clutch replacement?
The painful bit I know! But we like to give you as much choice as possible, so we accept:
- Cash on collection (always nice!)
- All Major Credit Cards (including AMEX) – over the phone or on collection
- Direct Bank Transfer
- Paypal
- Cheques – provided they clear before delivery or collection
What if something goes wrong?
We don’t like things going wrong, and you certainly wouldn’t! Quality is important to us, but in the event that something does go wrong you have our
12 month, unlimited mileage warranty.
Our warranty covers you for parts and labour in the event of any failure of a component due to unforseen circumstances. Just bring your car back to us and we will sort it out.
Hi there,
Recently purchased a 2002 freelander td4. My mechanic and me are tryin to work through all it’s problems to get it top working order for my Dad to drive. One of the issues is 1st and 2nd gears crunch whilst driving. They can be teased in without a crunch but not all driving situations allow for that. We have changed the master cylinder but no change. Previous owner says the clutch was changed only months ago. Could this be a problem with the slave or refitting of gearbox? Or could it be synchros failing? I’d seen a previous mention of a plate perhaps not being fitted correctly when refitting gearbox but I’m thinkin that would likely affect all gears rather than just 1st and 2nd. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Emma
Hi Emma,
This sounds more like the synchros failing than an issue with refitting the gearbox – as you say, an issue with refitting the gearbox is more likely to affect all gears.
With regard to additives from your previous message (now I realise it is a TD4), the best thing to use is a standard 2 stroke oil in with the fuel – in the ratio 200 to 1 – if you do this every fill up you will find the engine runs smoother, quieter and cleaner (it might be noisier and smokier for the first couple of weeks whilst it cleans everything out).
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thank you very much Sue for your quick response, it’s been very helpful in eliminating possible problems and pin pointing (unfortunately) what is goin to be an expensive fix. But it has to be sorted. The info on the two stroke is very useful too and we will do that when we are up and running again.
Cheers
Emma
It’s a pleasure Emma. If you need any help just give us a shout.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hullo Sue – and all at your support team..
I just discovered you by random chance and am amazed by your service and everything you do for us owners.
I’ve had a FL 1 many years – 160k mls – and restore classics here near Edinburgh – now retiring but that’s 60 years on the job. Still a few projects.
The Fl 1 is an terrific car but many jobs are ridiculously difficult. And I just don’t do diagnostics being old school. It’s easy to maintain basics but I need help from local garages with the big jobs, but you really need comprehensive knowledge and experience as you well know. Most of my local garages just don’t have the experience.
I wish I was nearer you. My clutch was done at 100k mls and VCU – and loads of standard jobs – but big jobs will be needed soon including clutch and DMF.
If I can’t find an impressive local garage (surely the main LR agents here or in Glasgow can do this work) I may come to you.
It’s absolutely awful that so many specimens get scrapped just because few garages are interested in helping to save them.
Thanks again for all you do. Very worthwhile work.
Wish I was young again and I could help you, but at my age (80) I will just go back to my garage to work on the stuff there – ‘46 Rover, ‘46 Bedford lorry, ‘58 Austin A35, ‘73 Austin FX 4 Taxi and a ‘53 Riley RMF.
Not forgetting the ‘03 Freelander diesel.
All best.
Call me anytime if I can help.
07866 505461
Gregor
Hello Gregor,
Wow, it sounds like you have some amazing vehicles there, you will be opening a museum next!
You would be very welcome to come to us so we can give your Freelander some TLC whilst you enjoy our beautiful Norfolk countryside – unlike Edinburgh there are no hills here! We are always happy to help, even if it is just for some advice.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi
I have a 2002 TD4 Freelander. The clutch is giving me problems. I have no slipping under load and the clutch pedal still returns to normal position and requires force to push down with my foot. The gears dont go in easily though and I am having to put into gear using accelerator until engine speed is correct. I fi pump the pedal a few times it seems to go into gear a bit easier including 1st and reverse. I am wondering is it likely to be master cylinder or slave cylinder?
Many thanks.
Fraser
Hi Fraser,
Yes, this sounds like an issue with the clutch hydraulics – it could be the slave or the master, generally it is best to replace both at the same time, although we realise this is a big job so often people try changing just the master first. It is best to use genuine Land Rover clutch hydraulics, in our experience the aftermarket ones, no matter which make we have tried, are not very reliable.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Afternoon
I bought a 2006 freelander 1 td4 manual from a local auction as a run around/dog car, on the face of it, it seems like a good car when we brought it home the clutch was slipping in 1st and 2nd when we finally got it home there was a putrid kind of smell in the car, the clutch pedal bite point was fairly high but left it for a week or so till we had room in our garage, the bite point seemed to return to mid way
I’m not sure how long it had been sat for before auctioned off and don’t want to go through the trouble of removing gearbox etc to find the friction plate is ok
Any ideas?
Hi Daniel,
If it had been sat for a long time it could just be the components being stuck. Try running it a bit more to see if it eases.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi There. Hope you can give me some advice . I have a freelander TD4 On
A 54plate commercial but just noticed that when wanting to gain speed it
Revs high but no pulling power , Changing gears is fine just seems it takes a
Bit to build up speed , Would I be right in thinking it is down to my clutch ? All or part of it . Drives fine no over heating, no smoke, no nasty clunks or prangs. oh and its a 2.0 litre / .. Regards Tom
Hi Tom,
Yes, you are right, it certainly sounds like the clutch. When you change the clutch make sure you also change the clutch slave hydraulics, as whilst you have the gearbox out it is certainly worth doing. For the hydraulics we would recommend only using genuine Land Rover parts, we have never found a decent aftermarket one.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
HI Sue been a while since we had a chat but got my new clutch and all other parts with fitted but last few days found that clutch pedal starting to stay down and nor returning to its place after changing gears . so took it back to the garage And guess what ? yes they have GONE Any thoughts advice on bleeding and do I change the master cylinder ? Regards Tom H
Hi Tom,
Is it a Freelander 1 TD4? Did you change the slave hydraulics when you did the clutch? Is so, what make of slave did you use?
It certainly sounds like a hydraulics issue. It is always best to change both the slave and the master at the same time on the Freelander 1 TD4, and to use genuine Land Rover hydraulics – we have never found an aftermarket hydraulics which has been very reliable. These hydraulics are a plug and play system and are not designed to be bled.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue yes is mk1 td4 and did use after market products changed all parts on the clutch but not the master or slave but also the selector have noticed is very very slack ? And thank you for your quick Reply . Regards Tom. May I Ask what would your price be Tom
Hi Tom,
Using an aftermarket clutch is not a problem, however it is strongly recommended to change the hydraulics, slave and master, at the same time as the clutch as you need the gearbox out to change the slave. With the hydraulics we would only ever use genuine Land Rover, even though they are massively more expensive than the aftermarket ones. The slave is £182.27 + VAT and the master is £156.75 + VAT.
With regard to the slack on the selector check the bushes.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi after some advice replaced the clutch on my td4 bled the master cylinder to give me a pedal (I know not recommended) also we removed the selector shaft (after heavy persuasion) got it all back together now I have no drive in 1st 2nd 3rd or 4th and it’s really loud in 5th and reverse do you think whilst removing the selector shaft we’ve broken the gearbox
Hi Ian,
Unfortunately yes, it does sound as though you have broken the gearbox whilst removing the selector shaft.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi my freelancer 2 td4 HSE ,71,000 on the clock ,I had clutch pedal problem not returning fully ,my mechanic has fitted a new clutch and dmf ,it won’t go into 1st or 2nd gear but goes into all the other gears beautifully,car is still at the garage ,what could be the problem, stretched linkage ?.Many thanks les .
Hi Les,
Did the garage take the gear selector lever off the gearbox when they changed the clutch? If so then this could be where the issue stems from, it can be very difficult to put back correctly.
All the best,
Sue
Hi i have a f1..td4…52 plate 72 k ..i get a engine rattle from drivers side by crank pulley ..ive replaced the pulley..it only happens when hot after 12 mile..and only on tickover…had new vcu and carriers 6 months ago..not from heatshield or exhaust ..any ideas please.
John
Hi John,
Check the timing chain and the timing chain guards as these can cause a rattle.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello my 2001 td4 works a treat if say only half down on accellerator however if you floor the accellerator I get some black smoke coming out of the exaust in a bit baffled as it doesn’t smoke at all on start up and engine sounds sweet as a nut ?
Hello Dave,
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Freelander. Check the intercooler and turbo hoses for any splits or loose connections. Also check the vacuum pipes.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
back again 2001 freelander dash lights orange– t c /abs /and landrover on slope orange one — all on wont go out
Hi Martin,
This is usually caused by one of three things:
1. A faulty brake light switch (which is situated under the brake pedal);
2. A break or loose connection in the HDC wires under the gearstick gaiter;
3. A faulty wheel speed sensor – best to put it on diagnostics to determine which one it is.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
taken my sensor off wheel on foroums some says theres a bush does not seem to be one on mine y878uug td4 how much are cables thanks for great advise once again martin
Hi Martin,
It is the pre 2001 models which have a bush.
Is it the speed sensor wires which you are looking for? Genuine Land Rover are £40.46 each including VAT.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi my girlfriend has had a clutch recently fitted from someone recommend off Facebook freelander club. Slave master and 3 part clutch but the next day struggling to select gears was told it has air in it and needs to be bleed and to pump the pedal 10 times before setting off 5 days later she had to abandon the car after dropping kids off at school unable to select any gears will bleeding it only be a tempry cure or is this the correct procedure after fitting the above
Hi Scott,
I assume from the fact you have had the slave, master and clutch replaced that the Freelander is a 2.0 litre TD4 diesel.
The clutch hydraulics are sealed units and cannot be bled. Some of the aftermarket clutch hydraulics do cause an issue and can lead to people trying to bleed them and the type of issues you describe happening. You need to take it back and get the hydraulics changed again. If I were you I would ask for them to be uprated to genuine Land Rover hydraulics and pay the extra. An aftermarket clutch does not generally cause an issue, but the aftermarket hydraulics do.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
got freelander td4 2001 with 80000 on clock clutch pedal went to floor changed master cylinder no better can you bleed this system i thought it was sealed if i pump up pedal its ok but then back on floor again
You are right, the clutch hydraulic system is sealed so it is not possible to bleed. Your issue could be with the slave cylinder rather than the master, in which case you would be as well to change the clutch itself at the same time.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
My gearbox on my 03 Td4 has become very very stiff I’m now struggling and having to turn off the ignition to get first or reverse and the car moves when I’m turning it over…. I fear it’s the clutch 🙁
Hi Stephanie,
Unfortunately this does sound as though it is either your clutch or your clutch hydraulics. You could try changing the clutch master cylinder first to see if that is the problem, but if it is the slave cylinder or the clutch itself you would be best to do both at the same time as the gearbox will need dropping to get to these.
If you would like us to do this for you, replacing the clutch, the master and the slave cylinder is £650 including VAT. Although it is recommended to replace the dual mass flywheel when replacing the clutch we can inspect this and very often it is not required.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi. I recently bought a 2005 freelander td4. The clutch pedal feels soft and the bitepoint is Close to the floor. But after a while it feels like it pops right up again and it works really good. But only after some driving around. What should i look at first? Thanks
Hi Joel,
This sounds like the clutch hydraulics. Try changing the master cylinder and hopefully this will cure it. If it does not cure it then unfortunately the problem will be with the slave cylinder, which means removing the gearbox, so you may as well change the clutch itself at the same time.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
2004 td4 has problems getting gears when running , bled the clutch with no success , problem could have been caused when clutch heated under pressure a while ago , maybe still air in system?
Hi Sean,
Although you can try to bleed the clutch system on a Freelander it is not generally successful, they are not designed to be bled.
The best thing to do is change the clutch master cylinder and hopefully the issue will be in this part. If this does not solve the problem then unfortunately it will be a case of changing the slave cylinder, which means you may as well change the clutch itself at the same time.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
The clutch has started to slip on my Freelander 1 TD4 Adventurer (2006, 54,000 miles) I’ve been told the clutch adjusts automatically and there is no manual adjuster. In light of this is a new clutch inevitable?
Hi Allan,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
Yes, unfortunately if your clutch is slipping then a new clutch is inevitable.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have recently bought a 2004 Freelander 2.0D. I have discovered that after a while of driving, there is massive judder when pulling away in 1st gear, i have looked on forums and all come up with different answers. I have a few months warranty left and would like an explanation to this and cure so i can tell the garage what needs doing.
I have also an error code 1470, i Was told it was the turbo as the engine management light comes on when at higher speeds. they changed the vacuum pipes bt still does the same thing, and of course the warranty wont authorise this if they dont know what it is.
Please help someone!
Many thanks.
Phil
Hi Phil,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
With regard to the juddering when you pull of in 1st gear the most likely cause of this would be either your rear differential centre bush or your clutch. Is the juddering coming from the front or the rear?
With regard to the error code P1470, the things to check are the inlet and intercooler hoses for splits / holes; the turbo boost control solenoid; the MAF sensor and the low pressure fuel pump. What symptoms are you getting?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi sue thanks for the advice 🙂 iv owned a freelander 1.8i six years ago which blew the head gasket !! luckily it was still under dealer warranty so cost me nothing !! ill keep you posted when i make the purchase and thanks again…..
hi thinking of purchasing a 2003 freelander kalahari 2.0 td4 it has the bmw engine so is it still suseptible to the head gasket issues as of earlier models or do you know of any potential problems i might not be aware of ? thanks in advance
Hi Joe,
No, the TD4’s are not susceptible to head gasket issues. There are two issues to be aware of, one is common to all the Freelander 1 models and that is the viscous coupling unit (VCU) requires replacing approximately every 70,000 miles; if this is not done you risk major damage to the drive train. The other issue specific to the TD4 BMW engine is to make sure whoever services it understands the engine and replaces the breather filter at the rear of the engine (this filter can be missed by some garages who are not used to the engine); if this filter is not replaced it will eventually suffocate the engine.
The Freelanders are great vehicles, best of luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi There, I wonder if you can help? I sent my Freelander TD4 to a so called garage by us to have a clutch/slave/master cylinder replaced it took 3 weeks but unfortuntley its still not rite as the biting point is on the floor & cannot get gears, Ive had to take the car out of the garage as they cannot find the fault & they wanted to re charge me again for taking the gearbox back out.
and Ihave now run out of money.
My friend who is a mecanic thought it hadnt been bled rite so he done that for us today But the problem is still there. would you be able to give me any suggestons what to try/do next. Kind Regards Liz
Hi Liz,
Apologies for the delay in responding, we have just returned to work from the Christmas break.
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Freelander. The master and slave cylinders cannot be bled successfully, it is advisable when you change the clutch on a TD4 you should change the dual mass flywheel at the same time. However, the problem could be that when you are putting the gearbox back in, there is a plate between the engine and the gearbox that may not have been fitted in properly, and hence the gearbox is few mm away from the engine, causing the biting point to be low.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421