16
Apr
Problems starting your Freelander? Is it doing nothing at all – not even cranking?
If all your lights are displaying well on the dashboard and your horn is working – hence unlikely to be the battery – there are two things to try before heading to your local garage.
First, lock the Freelander then unlock it again and try starting it immediately – sometimes the immobiliser can kick in again if you take too long from opening it to starting it. Second, find the smallest wire going into the starter motor and wriggle it – these can have a tendency of coming loose on the Freelander.
We hope this manages to get you going without a garage bill!
I have an 2010 2.2 SD4 and I’ve just started getting intermittent starting issues.
1st time I’ll try and start I’ll get reduced engine performance message – no fault code.
I’ll re start.
2nd time I might get an engine fault with the reduced engine performance message.
I’ll clear the fault with obd 2 and then switch off, lock, unlock.
3rd time starting it usually starts fine and drives fine.
Ive had a general look under the hood to see if I can find any loose/damaged wires but nothing found so far. I figure it might be a sensor starting to go on the blink but have no clue where to look first.
It’s worth saying one time on the 3rd attempt I got all lights on dash, temp gauge right up, transmission fault, engine fault, U2023 code and P0725 code, all engine fans are on – the car was not happy.
I cleared those faults locked unlocked and it started fine on the 4th try, drove 12 miles home all fine.
Hi Bob,
My apologies for the delay in responding, we have just returned from the Christmas vacation.
The two fault codes U2023 and P0725 seem to indicate the crankshaft position sensor, so it could be worth starting there.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks, it’s started stalling after start sometimes too. So looked up the crankshaft sensor faults. It definitely seems like it could be that. I’ve ordered one up and I’ll give it a try.
Bob
Hi, I hope you can help, I have a 2011 Freelander 2 with a starting problem.
I get in, put in the key, all the dash lights are correct press the button and all I get is the starter solenoid click (confirmed by touching the starter and feeling the click). This happens each time I try to start. Oddly, if I then get out and lock it, leave it for 10 or 20 minutes and try again it sometimes starts. When it starts is runs fine. I have a code tool and have the B100A-15 error message appear when I try to start it after clearing. I have tried the small wire and spade connector on the starter and this is not loose at all. Any further help would be very much appreciated. Thank you
Sorry, forgot to say, it is the 2.2 diesel 190
I tried to engine start my freelander 1. 1.8 2001. It kick start but stops with 30 seconds.
Hi Gibson,
When was the fuel filter last changed?
Try cleaning the wire mesh in the bottom of the cream tank in the fuel tank, if this is blocked you could have a fuelling issue.
Are there any codes coming up on diagnostics?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Mark,
This sounds like an issue with the starter motor solenoid – you can buy the solenoid separately without having to change the whole starter motor. It is also worth checking that all your doors are locking and unlocking as they should as this can sometimes cause issues.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi there, my freelander td4 won’t start in cold conditions (10c and lower so not super cold). I push the star/stop button and it turns over but doesn’t fire up… the garage have jump started it and then it starts up again all day until the next time it gets cold overnight and won’t start again… last year it was an issue but started after 2 or 3 tries, this year it’s failed to start 3 times already… any ideas as the garage are saying there isn’t a fault coming up on their diagnostics…?
Hi Lindsey,
This sounds like an issue with either the glow plugs or the glow plug relay. The garage should be able to test them to see if they are being energised.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I have a 2002 Freelander TD4 which is now taking forever to start and is getting progressively worse. Engine just cranks over and over for what seems like ever before it fires and starts. Same from hot or cold. Fuel filter changed on last service. Always been a good starter up until now. Any ideas? Kind regards, Mark
Hi Mark,
This sounds like a fuelling issue; most likely an injector, or the low or high pressure fuel pump. The best thing would be to put it on diagnostics and see if there are any codes.
If you need any further help please shout.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Did you have any succses with fixing the problem becouse ive got the same problem Td4 2005
Thanks !
Hi Sue!
04 Freelander 1,8 petrol. Does not start when i turn the key, but i can push it to start and it runs like normal. Changed the starter and new battery. I have of course wiggled the spade contact on the starter solenoid as i changed the starter. Checked for constant power on the main to starter. Checked for power on the spade contact as i turn the key. All grounding OK. Could this be caused by an immobiliser issue? But will the car than run at all, or does the immobiliser some how only prevent the starter to activate? Can it be some kind of a reset matter? Doors unlock/lock normally from remote control and red LED on dash keeps blinking when car is locked by remote control. Whether the case is admissible there has not been done any tire change for the last two years(approximately 19 000 miles). Dear Sue, do you have any wise views on this.
All the best
– Tore
Hi Tore,
When you unlock the Freelander does the red light on the dashboard stop blinking?
When you try to start the Freelander does it try to turn over or are you getting nothing but a click?
Are you seeing the dashboard lights illuminate when you try to start it?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi again Sue!
Thank you for quick feedback.
Yes, the red light stops blinking when car unlocked.
When trying to start by turning key nothing happens to the starter, just a little click from somewhere around the instrument panel.
Yes, all warning lights light up an than goes black again when engine running.
It is like a riddle because all the prerequisites for it to start are present.
I want to disassemble the starter to make sure it is at least in order. I will report back on the result.
Kindly regards
Tore
Hi Sue, and thanks for your support
Here is a summary of what has been done in this matter.
`04 Freelander 1,8 petrol suddenly did not start. Turned the key but not any sign of life. Pushed the car to start an it ran like normal.
Replaced the starter (factory new/German made) and brand new
(65 Amp) battery.
Nothing, not a sound.
Checked positive wire to starter and grounding to engine.
Checked connection to solenoid with test lamp when turning the key.
These are the necessary prerequisites for the engine to start.
– So, i replaced the “she” contact on the small wire to the solenoid.
Cut of wire 10 mm and mounted a new one as it seemed a little loose.
– Disassembled the new starter and tested it with jump leads – dead?!
– Tested the old original tarter with jump leads – working!?
– Reassembled old starter and, wrrroom – starts like nothing ever happened.
My conclusion on this must be a combination of several causes.
First, the female contact to the solenoid on the starter is a weak point as it becomes loose/corrodes.
Second, treat your car a new battery(65Amp), the current will decrease with colder weather. Even if it measures +12 Volt it can be weak/worn.
Average lifetime of a battery is approx 5 years.
And finally, test new parts before installing them, if possible.
Man’s greatest gift is to learn from experience…
– Now hopefully, prepared for a long cold Norwegian winter!
All the best
-Tore
Yes it does show everything and even if the battery is full it start but the engine does not run
Hi Luvuyo,
Which Freelander do you have? If you have the chassis number that will allow me to determine everything we need to know to try to help you.
All the best,
Sue
Hello Sue , I’ve got a 07 freelander 2 hse 150 hp dpf on
So when the temperatures drop below -2 celsius the car starts very hard. I have just replaced the glow plugs. I put the key fob in i press start and then i let the car for about 30 seconds then i put my foot on the brake and hit start again. It is cranking over and over again and it’s dying. After the third or fourth try the engine starts to run. What could possibly be the problem?
Hello Raul,
This sounds like it could be a stuck EGR – it would be worth putting it on diagnostics.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I have had the same problem starting my 57 plate Freelander 2 diesel. When the temperature was below zero. It has started fine since it warmed up. I was starting it via the stop/start button and waiting for the media player to kick in before I started the engine with the clutch. It’s currently at the garage and they have decided it is the throttle body. Does this sound plausible?
Thanks
Hi Corinne,
Have the glow plugs been checked? Sometimes the injectors can be affected when it is cold. It is also worth checking the EGR valve.
If the throttle body is stuck open it could cause a problem but it is not the most likely culprit.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
The garage ran the diagnostics and came up with it needed a new throttle, sensor, housing & map sensor. I had the filthiest (interior) 20 year old Freelander as a courtesy car and have been relieved of £470 😕.
Hopefully the car will start first time when the temperature drops again.
Corinne
Hi sue I have a 2001 freelander and mine has just started to play up she’s always fired up first time but just lately she’ll start straight away or she just keeps turning over without firing she’s a 1.9 td4 any help would be grateful
Hi Mark,
When she is refusing to start, when you turn the key on can you hear the low pressure fuel pump priming under the rear drivers side wheel arch? If not, then this could be the issue – we would recommend using a genuine fuel pump as the after market ones are not very reliable.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue my freelander Td4 2002 sport system is not starting after I changed the steering. I want to move the car the engine kick but never start
Hello Assan,
Thank you for getting in touch, so sorry you are having problems with your Freelander.
The first place to check would be the fuses, we would then recommend retracing your steps when you changed the steering, as something may have been dislodged.
All the best,
Sam
Hi Sue,
I have a 2007 Freelander 2 2.2 td4, there was air in the fuel pipe leading to the high-pressure fuel pump preventing the car from starting so I guessed that the fuel filter was shot and allowing air into the system.
I have changed the fuel filter and I have used the correct re-priming procedure including bleeding the injectors but the car now cranks but will not fire, it also has a new battery.
Any help in this matter will be greatly appreciated, Jason.
Hi Jason,
Did you prime from the main fuel feed into the filter, not out of the filter? This is all you need to do, there is no need to bleed the injectors.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, yes it was primed into the filter and the was air at the injector pipes so I thought it best to get rid of the air completely.
I have checked all fuses and everything seems fine there, I have noticed an electrical spark/buzzing sound when I depress the clutch when I first try to start the car but not on subsequent attempts. The car turns at normal speed and as I said the battery is new, it’s got me scratching my head for sure.
Look forward to your reply, Jason.
Did you manage to get the problem?
What problem are you having Jean?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a 05 freelander 1 TD I . Stopped in town when I went back to it it will not start . It turns and try’s to start . I have changed the fuel pump behind the back wheel arch and still the same will turn over but no start. Any idea what my problem might be Thanks Dominic
Hi Dominic,
Have you changed the fuel filter recently?
It is worth putting it on diagnostics to see if there are any fault codes present. If it is fuel related and not the fuel pump under the wheel arch or the fuel filter then it could be the high pressure fuel pump in the engine bay. However, it could also be a sensor issue, so definitely worth putting it on diagnostics first.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Good day my freelander 2 td4 doesnt crank but i can hear relay click when i start it from the starter it start and when i switch it off from the start putton it turn off i try to trace signal from starter it go to the starter relay from there it go to the ecu help pliz
Hi Clement,
This sounds like an issue with the starter motor solenoid. This can be replaced on its own, without replacing the whole starter motor.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
I have a FL2 2007 TD4 with a recurring starting problem. I just found out when it will not start, but could not define what the problem is. While removing the key after stopping the car, normally there are clicking sounds. But sometimes there is no clicking sound. After a no clicking stop process, when I put in the key to start the car, I can not hear the normal clicking sounds, all lights work normally but when I press start, nothing happens. I remove the battery and lock/unlock the car. After a few times of this, the car works.
What I did is;
-Changed the steering column lock
-Changed the key hole
-Cleaned the starter solenoid
-Changed the battery
But I still have the same issue.
When I connect to diagnostic at mechanics, the main trouble codes possible with this failure are;
B1026-52 – Steering Column Lock system programming failure
B10A2-00 – Crash input
B1024-08 – Start control unit, bus signal message failure
Would really like to have your opinion.
Best,
Doruk
Hi Doruk,
From what you describe it sounds very much like the starter motor solenoid issue. The first thing we would try is replacing this with a new one.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue,
Thank you for the reply. Just to know; if there was a failure in the solenoid, would I be able to hear the clicking sound when I hit the start button? Because mechanics already checked the solenoid, cleaned and seems to work normal.
Hi Doruk,
Yes, you would still hear the click if there was a problem with the solenoid.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Did you ever get this sorted? I also have a similar issue with a crash input code included!!!!
Hello Philip,
Sorry to hear you are having problems.
Have you tried replacing the starter motor solenoid?
All the best,
Sam
Hi I have a freelander with a 20t2n direct injection engine the car crank but won’t start and is flashing engine light when I turn the key on I have checked the crank sensor is not worn out what could it be please help
Hi Tumi,
This could be the injection pump timing so it is worth checking this.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi I have a freelander 1 1998 with the 1.8I 120 hp engine it was left sitting for 2 years and now we have trouble starting it it has a problem with sparking, fuel is good, all liquids are changed and good, its got good compression, there is a good and strong spark on the ignition coil but its being lost somewhere inbetween the distributor and the sparkplugs(which are brand new). I am about to buy new cap and wires because the terminals were rusty I tried brushing them off a bit but it did not help. Can you give me an advise on what to do thank you .
Hi Stafan,
The distributor cap can cause a problem if it has sat for a while, so definitely worth changing this. It is also worth replacing the rotor arm.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello so last time i saw this car there was no spark i changed the cap and the arm and yeah we have spark, compression and fuel but we still cannot start the car. My friends think it might be immoby issue since the car has 2 alarms( one factory one extra) and when unlocked it has a single blinking red light in the middle of the dash( blinking with an interval of 1 second) i read some forums for linking the fob to the alarm of the car with 5 fast presses on the lock button but eh it didnt work any ideas
Thanks!
Hello Stefan,
If the red light is blinking then you are correct, the immobiliser is on. You will need to get the key fob programmed back to the car, so you need somebody with diagnostics which can programme key fobs.
All the best,
Sue
Hi. A few threads on here re clicking sounds & not starting. Mine is similar – all dash lights on, press the stop/start and just a series of clicking relays in and around the dash and glovebox. The only solution is to disconnect/reconnect the battery – any thoughts?? I’ve temporarily fitted a remote battery isolator to perform the disconnect/reconnect without opening the bonnet, but that’s not going to go down so well when I eventually sell it!!
Any help appreciated.
Hi Steve,
This sounds like it could be an issue with the starter motor solenoid.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
It doesn’t show the battery light and the engine light but all the lights are on and it doesn’t transfer energy to the injectors
Hello Makoena,
Which Freelander do you have, Freelander 1 or 2? Which engine does it have and what year is it? Have you had it put on diagnostics?
All the best,
Sue
I have the exact same problem.
Have you figured out what is it?
Hi
I have a 2013 Freelander 2 XS 2.2 Diesel automatic. It has intermittent starting problems. On occasions with your foot on the brake pedal, when you press the starter button the dials etc power up and you hear a click then nothing happens but if you keep your foot on the brake and move the auto selector from P to D a few times it will fire up either in N or P. Sometimes you have to do it a few times but it always seems to start. The problem can then disappear for weeks then return unexpectedly. I had it into the Land Rover dealer who think it ‘might’ be the brake pedal sensor, which I’m waiting to have replaced, but I’m not convinced. Why would moving the gear selector cause it to start without moving the brake pedal? Have you heard of this problem before? Any ideas would be very welcome
Hi Brian,
It sounds as though it is the starter motor solenoid (quite a common problem on these) – especially since you are getting the click. We think the moving from gears is just coincidental. Does it happen more when it is cold outside?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for the reply.
The cold doesn’t appear to have an effect as it just seems to happen randomly at any time and continues to do it on and off for a number of days or weeks. Then it doesn’t do it again for weeks then mysteriously returns. Sounds like the solenoid could be the problem though so I’ll arrange to have it changed out. At least that will eliminate something else it could be. Thanks again and I’ll post back when I get a fix and let you know.
As promised I’m posting back as it turned out to be the starter motor like you suggested, which has now been changed out. To recap from my last post, the brake pedal sensor was changed but didn’t fix the problem. It was still the same symptoms, starting no problem for weeks on end then last week I had problems starting it every time. As you pointed out it did actually take longer to get started when it was cold. I took it straight to the garage and the mechanic felt and heard the clicking of the starter motor so changed it out. So far seems problem solved. It was a very frustrating problem as everytime I booked it into a garage to be looked at the problem would disappear only to come back later on. Thanks for your help and advice, it was spot on 👍
Hi sue I seem to have the same issue I have A freelander 2 hse lux 2.2sd. When I keep my foot on brake pedal and move from park to neutral and back to park engine seems to fire up normally I put a new battery on about 2 weeks ago uprated version 80AH AGM . took the voltage and was 12.56v been stood for a day . when engine running seems to be charging ok as voltage from battery terminal is 14.4v still think it could be solenoid or something else?
Hi Howard,
It could be the inhibitor switch on the top of the gearbox – looks like an ECU.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Update;
So I found the problem. YAY …!
Turns out that the system was armed.
Diagnostics; diagnostic reported that all sensors were good, however, between the ignition switch to the immobilizer the key code got scrambled somehow.
Then between the ECM and immobilizer the system then armed not allowing any current back and forth.
Took the vehicle to a specialist who does key coding and reset the entire system costing a huge amount of money. More than the floor value of this LR. Well here in South Africa anyway.
Hope this unlocks some questions for those who suffer the same symptoms.
Excellent to hear you have sorted the issue out Vincent and thank you for sharing the solution.
All the best,
Sue
Hi,
Have a Freelander 1 1.8l 2002. Problem I have is engine fires up but runs 3 secs and dies.
I have removed the head, redid valves everything, had the sensors checked, all seems fine no errors.
The reading error it does give is pointing to the ignition or ignition key.
Any suggestions before I spend my yearly income on a new set key+ignition switch?
Note; have been reading forums and some speak of , inertia cut off switch, or , one of the two timing switches 1 being the cam sensor and 2 being the crank sensor.
If so then why wouldn’t the readings give errors about these ?
Any suggestions is welcome as I have been sitting with this problem for a year now.
Thanks in advance
Vincent
Hi Vincent,
The inertia cut off switch is situated on the bulk head to the right – try pressing the top of this and see if it makes any difference.
What is the actual code you are getting?
Have you changed the coil and cables?
The other things to check are the potentiometer and the idle control valve.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
Apologies for late reply.
I have done the inertia switch as you said and nothing.
Here is a list of what I have done meantime;
Removed head and renewed valves everything…
New timing belt
New; oil temp sensor, coolant sensor, camshaft sensor, 2x coils and HT cables, spark plugs, New fuel pump, fuel filter, 12v battery.
Had LandRover use their diagnostic equipment and shows zero fault codes. So they reset the system and checked again.
This time it is giving a ignition error.
Tech suggested I need a new ignition switch plus key.
I did a test on this ignition plus key by turning the engine over keeping the key in that position for about 8 seconds. The engine fires up but dies within 4 seconds but starter motor remains running. This means there is no problem with the switch nor key.
Timing is bookmark correct.
Turns over, fires (( all 4 pistons )) and dies after 3-5ish seconds.
Diagnostic readings is cleared no codes.
Removed map sensor cleaned and checked reads 12v input, 5-ish volt signal wire.
Idle sensor removed cleaned and tested from 1v idle position and 5.35ish v open throttle on signal wire.
Crankshaft sensor shows working due to rpm needle floating when engine fires up.
(( was told by Land rover techs that this should be seen ))
I have not replaced the crankshaft sensor.
My question about this CS , the engine fires up meaning the computer does pick up a reading, but why immediately shut off?
This is a year gone by with no luck at all. I now have depleted my finances with Land Rover and their diagnostic equipment.
(( hellishly expensive… OMGH ))
Yet the engine will not continue running.
Sue… I am now defeated .. frustrated to death.
Please, anyone .. I seriously need help here only this time I am begging for help.
Your advice is welcome
Email : vnske_2@hotmail.com
Regards
Vincent
Hi Vincent,
You have certainly done a lot!
Try starting it with the coolant temperature sensor disconnected – what happens?
If that does not help try giving the fuel pump a constant 12 volt feed so it is running all the time, then try starting it – what happens?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue thanks for the reply.
I disconnected the temp sensor and still the same.
Sue, my opinion is that all sensors are working.
If not, then engine won’t start with engine running and all.
I will remove the intake manifold again, and check for a vacuum leak. “”?????””
Other than this, I’m afraid I’m going to ditch this car with bullet holes -:(
Will post a update tomorrow
Regards
Vincent
Hi Sue.
Update;
I have stripped the throttle body cleaned out examined for leaks or faults found nothing.
I again tested the idle sensor or throttle sensor, again signal wire shows working condition according to throttle movement.
Starting at 1v accelerate to full shows 5.35ish volts and back to close shows 1v.
Removed the coolant temp sensor plug as you said and no difference. Only then does the radiator fan come on.
I hunted for vacuum leaks everywhere but there ain’t none at all.
Starts up okay all pistons fire for about 2 – 3 seconds and dies immediately.
I then removed each sensor plug in single tries start engine do the same with next .. repeat.. and still no difference.
I now admit defeat. As a mechanic I am with years of experience for me to have to admit defeat is a costly bad image.
Anything else you may have an idea on please let me know before this Landy goes up in smoke.
Regards
A extremely frustrated Vincent
Hi I just been read the post as I’ve had trouble last to days to start my freelander 2 53 plate 2 litre diesel it was fine in morning but got home and went out 2hours later and would turn over but only start when pedal to the floor. Then it was struggling till reved it had smoke come out and struggled to pull of at first but ok after few min any clues please thank you
Hi Charlotte,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
When were the glow plugs last changed? They could be the problem or it could be an injector. It is also worth checking the fuel pressures on diagnostics live data to see if you are getting sufficient fuel pressure.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi I have a 2009 freelander 2 hse i6
The starter motor got wet with salt water stripped starter down cleaned all the salt and frozen brushes sorted the solnoid as well test with jumper leads worked fine installed back in vehicle pressed start button went through the checks then nothing break pedal was really firm noticed when pedal was not as firm vehicle started drove to work after work started got home 2hr drive then would not start break pedal is firm again what else can I do
Hi Pieter,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
If the brake pedal is firm then this could be a servo or a vacuum hose leak which could cause the pedal not to be able to press down enough to trigger the switch which enables the Freelander to start.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Found the problem the starter solenoid shorted out replaced it lucky found the only guy in new zealand that gets them in otherwise would have been a whole starter motor
Great news Pieter!
I have a 2000 1.8 landrover freeland and it has broke down on me on the road i it happened a month ago to me but started after ten min but all it dose turn over but wont fire up ive change the ignation sensor and the crankshaft sensor i was looking for the camshaft sensor but couldnt find it. if put a metre on the ignition sensor and it only reads .36 dosent sound right to me and the spark from the plug is very weak can you help please ian
Hi Ian,
It sounds like the rotor arm and / or distributor cap.
There is no camshaft sensor.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, we have a 2003 Freelander (53 plate) which we were having problems starting. We thought it was the starter motor but took it to the garage and they said starter motor was fine and it was a problem with the battery, which they replaced and it was working fine. About a week later, after sitting on the drive for a couple of days we went to it and it wouldn’t start again. We tried to jump it off another car and at first it had some electric and was trying to start then it went to nothing – no power at all. We can’t lock or unlock some of the doors, a couple of the windows are stuck down and there is zero response when turning the key, no lights or anything electrical. We’ve had a look at the fuses we can see and it doesn’t look like any have blown. We are stuck! Any pointers would be appreciated- thanks 🙂 Laura
Hi Laura,
Have you tested the battery again? If it has been drained then it could be the alternator is not charging the battery.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Sue. Think we’ll borrow a multimeter and also have a look at the alternator as a potential issue.
Hi Sue.. I have a starting problem. It looks like there is no command going from the push button to start the car. The push button puts the ignition on but won’t start it. The car was at a autolec and they could’nt find the problem. They suggested to take it to Landrover. Car now at Landrover and after 3 days they phoned me to tell me that they cannot find the fault. Do you have any idea? They said nothing is wrong with the starter.. It’s just that the command don’t want to go through to start the car.. Its a Freelander 2.2 td4 2007 model. Any help would be much appreciated!!
Hi Jacobus,
Are they getting power to the starter solenoid as there is a common fault with the starter motor solenoid?
When it tries to start does it click or make any sound?
It could be the cartridge for the stop/start button, have they checked this?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
We are having trouble with a 2005 freelander Td4. From cold/cool the engine will start, run for a second or two then die off as if it is running out of fuel. If you try to pump the throttle it does absolutely nothing then after a couple of goes starting it runs perfectly!
The best description of the symptoms would be if you had just changed a diesel fuel filter then start it up and it slowly dies as it runs out of fuel.
We have fitted a new Low pressure lift pump and fuel filter but with no change. Any help would be greatly received.
Tim
Hi Tim,
Are you getting any white smoke from the exhaust? If so then it is liable to be a problem with either the glow plugs or the injectors.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
No smoke, heater plugs & circuit function correctly. The car doesn’t have to be stone cold for the fault to occur either, we have conducted a injector leak off test, scoped the injectors, cam sensor, crank sensor, air mass sensor, tested high and low fuel line and rail pressures and also tested the delivery fuel pressure sensor but everything seems to be ok even at time of failure 🤷🏼♂️
Hi Tim,
Have you put it on diagnostics? Are there any codes?
Have you got the uprated fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom fitted?
It is worth checking the timing just in case it has jumped a tooth – although it is not a common fault.
It could be an internal leak on the high pressure fuel pump.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I had a flex plate problem and replaced it know it would not start. The solliod kliks starter not turning
Hi Philip,
My apologies for the delay in responding, we have just returned from vacation.
Which Freelander do you have? If you can send the registration number or the chassis number that would help.
Check the wire connecting to the starter solenoid is properly connected.
All the best,
Sue
I have a 1999 Freelander 1 1.8i. The water pump gave up and I had i towed to a local Mexican who replaced it. Since then the car is a sod to start, usually needing the accelerator having to be floored to do it, the starter motor makes a grinding sound afterwards, and it stalls on idle when warm. I have fitted a new petrol pump, but to no avail. Unfortunately I an in Corfu, a long way from a main dealer. TIA
Hi Nick,
Since it started after the water pump was replaced I would get the mechanic to check the timing, it sounds as though it is out.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Please can you help me.??? I have problem with freelander 2 2007 2.2 diesel, it justt crunking, i have replace new common rail pressure sensor and it helps first time, after few days same thing again than i have cleaned all fuel cannals from pump to cmr, after that it was working for a few weeks and now can’t start again. Have no issues on diagnostics it’s all ok on comp.
Hi Nedim,
When did you last replace the fuel filter? What type of fuel do you use?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
We having the same problem but car it coming up as in crash mode….Phone dealer and they have never heard of the problem please help
Hi Kelly,
This fault needs to be reset using a dealer level diagnostic system. We have known it happen before.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi
Did you find any solution for the starting issue? Am getting the same issue can you pls help me ?
Thank you
Same
Hi Same,
What is it your Freelander is doing?
All the best,
Sue
Hi.
I have a freelander 1 .. 1.8l petrol, plate 2006 model.
Issue is mind boggling to say the least.
When I start the engine, it runs 3-ish seconds and dies.
Every time I try to start this is what happens.
Previous day and before never had any trouble at all. Starts and off I go.
I’ve been told to check the fuel pump and filter which I have and when starting the pump is audible throughout except when the engine dies.
Injectors are fine it seems or else the engine won’t fire up.
Also have been told to send to Landy dealer for a diagnostic test however, south African dealers are hellishly expensive quote around R 3600 .. zar. That’s my entire wage I get in a month.
My mind is pointing towards the immobilizer any thoughts Please?
I am litterely at a dead end here.
Thank you in advance
Hi Vincent,
It is more likely to be the potentiometer or the idle valve control. If it were the immobiliser it would not start in the first place.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue
Diagnostic test indicated at first to be the oil temperature sensor and the water temperature sensor.
Install new ones.
Had another diagnostic test done and then pointed to ignition switch and or key.
Installed new ignition.
Diagnostic test then pointed to fuel pressure sensor.
Installed new
Then diagnostic report shows everything is 100%.
Then Landover said new fuel pump.
Installed new one.
Then Landover said new HT cables and spark plugs.
Installed new.
I am now at a stage thinking if Land Rover mechanics can’t figure out the cause then land rover tag is utter rubbish.
You mentioned the idle sensor.
The diagnostic report indicates this is fine.
Land rover even tried a new one still the same.
Right now it’s a complete waist of finance to even persue this issue.
I ask now anyone for a final idea as to what could possibly be wrong why this engine won’t start up and run normally please!
It still fires up and 3 seconds later dies.
Every single time.
Thank you in advance
Hi Vincent,
Try the potentiometer, which is on the throttle body and the idle control valve on the intake manifold.
It could also be worth checking the camshaft and crankshaft sensors.
Has a compression test been performed?
All the best,
Sue
Have u tried the crank sensor. i had a similar problem and it turnout to that. cleaned it and it started fin
Thanks so much for the locking and unlocking tip. Got a piggy back home last night after my freelander wouldn’t start in Crianlarich. Searching for possible causes today, and your page saved me. Again thank you 😃
Marc
It’s a pleasure Marc, good to hear our page has been of use.
All the best,
Sue
Wanna know how to fix this the watch/time in my landrover TD4 is off can you teach me how I can go abt fixing it? Thanks
Hi Michael,
If the clock is not longer displaying anything or is missing pixels the best thing would be to replace it – generally a good used one is sufficient. I believe you can fix them but it is not something we have done.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
I wanna know where the atx deep stick of the automatic gearbox is located on the 2002 freelander TD4 cuz I wanna know the level of my ATX fluid in my Gearbox thank you
Hi Michael,
The bolt for checking the fluid level (it is not a dipstick) on the Jatco automatic gearbox is a 5mm allen head – do not open the one positioned slightly above it and to the right as this will cause you to lose reverse gear.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Do you have any supplier you can suggest for me cuz I’m in Ghana ?? West Africa
I wanna go get a used engine for my TD4 freelander 2002 and I want u to give me clues n choosing a good used engine please thank you
Hi Michael,
With a used engine it is very difficult to know what it has been through in its life; it may be running well but it is hard to guarantee it for any length of time. The best advice I can give on getting a good used engine is to find a good, reliable supplier, as these are more likely to check the engines over better before selling them. So my advice would be to go on the supplier reputation rather than the engine itself, and if they say it is a good engine then you should be fine.
All the best,
Sue
Do you have any supplier you can suggest for me cuz I’m in Ghana ?? West Africa
I just installed a used engine in my 2002 freelander td4 but it won’t start after installing the engine
I wanna know if I can delete the old mileage on the car To see the mileage of my used engine I just installed which can’t start thanks
Hi Michael,
If it is trying to start then put your foot flat on the floor and keep it cranking. Just as you think it is definitely not going to start it usually fires into action – unless the non-start is because of something not being connected of course!
No, you cannot delete the old mileage, this mileage represents the mileage of the whole car and it is illegal to change this. You just need to keep a record of the mileage at which you changed the engine so the mileage of the engine can be calculated.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue I have a freelander 1.8 05 it recently broke down in the motorway, I could hear a slight crunching sound under the bonnet and then nothing. Got towed by the rac and when I try to start the car there’s no attempt to start at all no clicks no noise etc just the dash lights come on. Any ideas
Thanks liam
Hi got a 59 plate diesel freelander which won’t start, not cranking over, checked the starter and it’s got a new battery on the vehicle, seen where the starter relay is and it seems fine, I’ve opened up the relay and when the switch is made to pull the relay in, it starts up, checked the wiring at the relay and I’ve got continuity on the wires from pcm to relay and relay to starter, the vehicle also says steering column locked which it isn’t and also says hds fault. Many thanks Mark
Hi Mark,
If it has the steering column locked fault then it will not start.
This can be quite a common issue and some people have solved it in the following way:
There is a module at the base of the steering column that has a mechanism that sticks in it – I will email you the photograph. Take off the lower cover and pull the steering as far out as you can. Tap it with a little hammer, sometimes you have to tap it a few times to loosen it up (you may hear a small click when it loosens).
If this method works then this is what needs replacing.
All the best,
Sue
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
0780 9575 421
Hi, I have a 2006 Freelander TD4 with 125k on the clock. Recently starting has been an issue where it will either start but run very rough for a few seconds and emitting blue/white smoke or it will start and slowly grumble until it cuts out and only after several attempts of getting it going will it clear. As soon as the smoke clears and its settles down after a few seconds it runs and drives lovely with no smoke and this problem doesnt seem to happen unless its been sat for the day/night. No warning lights and no error codes. Its allegedly had new glow plugs in the last 6 months as only had it a few months myself. Please help!
Hi Rob,
Is it the 2.0L Freelander 1 or the 2.2L Freelander 2?
Have you checked the injectors and low pressure fuel pump?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, thanks for replying. Its a Freelander 1. I have not checked the pumps on the basis it runs so well other than starting. Would a low pressure back test on the injectors be the thing to do? Thanks again
Hi sue not sure how to post on here, my freelander 05 1.8 petrol broke down on the motorway out of nowhere sort of here a crunching sound under the bonnet. RAC came out and towed me home said something about the fuses and the front diff? Not quite sure what he meant!! Anyway it doesn’t start or turnover, just turn the key and nothing. Lights come on the dash but not a sound coming from the car
Please help
Hi Liam,
If you are getting no attempt whatsoever to start from the Freelander, other than the lights coming on the dash, then the most common issue is the spade connector on the small wire going into the starter motor.
Follow the wire from the battery to the starter motor. Then feel for a smaller wire which is going into the starter motor. This smaller wire has a spade connector so give it a wiggle and see if the Freelander will then start. If it does then it’s worth changing the spade connector on that wire.
The crunching sound from under the bonnet would be something separate and could be the IRD / transfer box at the front. What condition are your tyres in? Are they all the same make, model, size, tread depth remaining and air pressure? When was the viscous coupling unit (VCU) last changed? This is not on any service schedule but they have a lifespan of approximately 70,000 miles (unless you have an auto gearbox then they tend to last longer). If it has not been changed in the last 70,000 miles then it could be the cause of damage to the IRD / transfer box.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello , i buy freelander 2 from swiss , 2006 td4 hse automatic , i change timming belt and water pump in service , my serviser took off batery to change altenarot belt for a long time about 3-4 hours and now i cant start the engine , engine start and stop about one second , on dash bord says zündschloss steck. can u help me how to start my car again ?
Hi Dule,
Did they disconnect any of the fuel pipes? If so then the fuel system will need to be primed.
Have they checked the timing is correct?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
I have a freelancer 2004 diesel
I broke down whilst driving the car just cut out and won’t restart, I have had a Machanic change the in tank fuel pump / filter and the low pressure pump behind the wheel still no starting her. Any advice appriciated
Mark
Hi Mark,
Have you checked the high pressure fuel pump in the engine bay for leaks?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
My late 99 Freelander 1,8 soft top has issues with starting too.Sometimes it does not even make any noise yet a movement at all. I changed the starter two months ago and checked the connectors, the battery and the cables. But still it does not start the engine sometimes. Also checked and replaced the battery in the remote control.
Somebody told me that Land Rover Testbooks have a way to disengage the Auto Theft System and that this is likely to solve the issues with a new starter. What do you think about this?
Hi Andreas,
If, when you try to start it, all the lights come on the dashboard but you do not get any sound at all, and then other times it starts normally, then it is likely to be the spade connector on the small wire going into the starter motor. Follow the wire from the battery to the starter motor, then feel around for a smaller wire. Give this smaller wire a wiggle and see if the Freelander will start. If it does start then you know it is this wire giving a problem.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi All I’ve got a 57 plate freelander, there is no power getting to the exciting wire on the starter motor, does anyone know which relay it would be many thanks Wayne
Hi Wayne,
It is probably the ignition relay but I’m not sure what number that is I’m afraid.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
I have 1.8 04 freelander it will start perfectly about 5 times and then it will just not turn over all lights on no battery issue but just nothing no noise just nothing once I left it about a week and it started another time I bump started it. I don’t try it often. Maybe you could have an idea please.
Hi Kathryn,
This sounds like the connector on the small wire going to the starter motor. If you follow the wire from the battery to the starter motor, then feel around for a small wire going into the starter motor. Give this a wiggle and see if the Freelander starts. If it does then the connector on that wire is your issue, get the connector changed and all should be good.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
My 2005 Land Rover Freelander SE has been in the shop for two months. I first brought it in because it wasn’t starting. Diagnosis said it was a crank sensor. Put in a new crank sensor, new battery. Still nothing. Change the starter, nothing. Mechanic said needed to reprogram the computer. Now he just sent me a message saying this:
“Can we just make it easy to make your van start with no transponder .
I can rewrite the file in the computer and tell the van don’t look for keys, your EMS not taking programming and I don’t want to delay your time.
I can start writing from Monday and should be done within the week”
$$$$ later does this make? Is this ok to do? Is there a better alternative?
Hi Kelvin,
The best solution is to find the actual problem and solve it. Is there any guarantee that rewriting the file will solve it? Have they checked the camshaft sensor (often you can get a fault code crank sensor and it is in fact a fault with the camshaft sensor)? If the ECU was bringing up the faults then it must be working, and if it is an ECU fault then it would be easier to just change the ECU rather than rewrite the program to something it is not meant to be.
Which engine does your Freelander have?
Was it refusing to start all the time or just on occasions? When it refuses to start does it try to crank or does it not do anything?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I took your advice and I wriggled the small wire going into the starter motor and off I go.
Awesome.
Brilliant Michael, so pleased it got you going again.
All the best,
Sue
Hi, my 2002 td4 has suddenly stopped starting.
It catches fine but then dies, if I spray easystart then it catches again with mega high revs then dies again.
Problem has come from nowhere
Thanks
Jase
Hi Jase,
Check if the low pressure fuel pump in the engine bay is priming.
All the best,
Sue
My 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 will not start. The lights are coming on the dash and it clicks when pressing the start button but the engine does’nt start. Any advice would be super helpful 🙂
Hi Sue,
The first thing to check would be the Stop/Start button itself, if this is faulty it will stop your Freelander from starting. If this is not the case then put it on diagnostics and check the codes. If the diagnostics cannot communicate with the body control module then this could be your problem.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a FL1 TD4 2005. It will not start on very cold mornings but fine if above 2 or 3 degrees! it has had new Glow plugs, injectors. Also had full service including fuel filter.I have spent too much on trying to cure this fault and now need to resolve it without anymore expense.Could it be a sensor or possibly High pressure pump? One started it runs like a dream. Just cold mornings it dose not like! help Please.
Hi Andy,
The first place to check would be the low pressure fuel pump under the rear wheel arch. It could be that it is having an issue whilst the diesel is thicker on cold mornings.
All the best,
Sue
Hi I’ve had a sudden problem with my Freelander 1 1.8. Car was running fine and now won’t fire. Turns over freely but makes no attempt to start. Have fitted new dizzy cap/rotor arm and leads. (Problem started before I did this and yes they’re fitted in correct order!) Noticed that wire to crankshaft sensor was quite badly damaged (burnt) so have replaced wiring to loom and crankshaft sensor. Still no sign if it attempting to fire. Oddly, I have a spark at the crown lead at the dist cap but not at the spark plug. Obviously this is this season it’s not starting so assuming it’s a major timing issue but can’t understand what is causing it or how to rectify. Any suggestions would brilliant.
Hi Davie,
If you are not getting a spark at the spark plug then you were right to be looking at the distributor cap and rotor arm. If you are confident these are fine then you will need to check the timing, it may have slipped a tooth.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue thanks for getting back to me. Checked it at the weekend and timing seems to be spot on. What actually controls the timing of the signal to tell the coil to fire? I’m guessing that comes direct from the ECU since there’s no camshaft sensor on this model. Is it possible the ECU has failed and is telling coil to fire at wrong time even though rotor arm is bang on the right point in the sequence? Other thought I had is although there is a spark from the coil is it possible it’s weak and doesn’t have the magnitude to make it through the lead/cap/arm/cap/lead and still have the guts at the plug? I’m clutching at straws now cos if it’s the ECU it’s not worth repairing and it’s a really sound car otherwise. Thanks again. Davie.
Hi Davie,
The best thing would be to put it on diagnostics, this would certainly give you an idea if it is the ECU.
Have you checked the lead from the coil to the distributor cap?
All the best,
Sue
Diagnostic showing no fault codes at all. Centre lead off the cap and there’s a spark when cranking. Have tried that with each of the leads individually direct from the coil and all have a spark from coil so leads all ok. With cap assembled and all leads on there is no spark at any of the leads so coil Is definitely producing the spark but it’s not getting as far as the leads.
Changed a manifold gasket all was fine before after changing exhaust gasket went to start no cranking at all just relay clicking checked all relays and fuses all check ok seems like a immob fault
Hi Kevin,
Which engine does your Freelander have, and what year is it?
It sounds as though it is probably the spade connector on the small wire going into the starter motor which is causing the problem. Follow the wire from the battery to the starter motor, them feel around for the smaller wire. Once you find it give it a wiggle to push it in better and see if the Freelander will start. If it does then it will be worth changing the spade connector on the wire.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have the same problem starting my 57 plate 2.2 freelander 2 d. I do not know where the starting motor is from the battery. and how do l fit the earthing cable please
Hi Sandra,
It is unlikely to be the same problem on a Freelander 2. If all the lights etc. are working but the Freelander is not attempting to crank it could be the starter solenoid which has gone, the stop/start button which has burnt out or it could be the body control module. If you put it on diagnostics it should tell you.
To fit a second earth strap take it from the battery to the gearbox housing.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hello. I have a 2007 Freelander 2 diesel, unlock works fine, fob works fine, but no working working lights in the dash, and totally dead, radio, headlights,GPS etc works fine. bought a new battery,still the same problem. It´s been standing still for 7 days. any ideas? peter
Hi Peter,
The first thing to try is to fit a second earth strap if one has not been fitted previously. Take it from the battery to the gearbox housing. The early Freelander 2’s can have some very strange electrical issues when they do not have the second earth strap fitted. If this does not solve the problem let us know and we will have another think about it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thank, you, all of a sudden thecar starts and run again, don´t know what caused the problem. Now my wipers stopped working too, so you think that a second earth strap will solve this problem too? peter
Hi Peter,
If you are getting some electrical gremlins then it is worth trying a second earth strap, as this is what tends to happen when only one earth strap is fitted.
All the best,
Sue
hello again, I tried with a jumpstart cable, from battery earth to gearbox, no result, maybe I need a proper earthcable?
Peter
Hi,
I have a issue with a 2002 2.0 disel, the engine turns, fuel pumps are working (or at least it sounds like they work) there is fuel in the hose after the filter (so it’s not blocked)
Tryed to push the “collision switch” locking the doors and unlocking and starting right after, but the car aren’t starting. I have tryed with diesel start and then it’s starting and going as long as the diesels start is injected.
So my guess is there’s a probem with the fuel supply, just can’t figure the problem? Any ideas ?
Hi Martin,
This could be any number of issues, so can be quite difficult to pinpoint without seeing it.
It could be that the fuel pumps are working but not delivering enough pressure to start the Freelander. Are there any signs of leaks around the high pressure fuel pump in the engine bay.
It is worth cleaning the fuel pressure regulator sensor – do you have the uprated wiring loom for this fitted? If not it is worth doing this.
Have you put it on diagnostics? If there are no codes showing then you know it is a mechanical rather than electrical fault.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, been recently having some problems starting my freelander 2 td4… when inserting the key fob all the dash lights are showing and radio plays etc… sometimes it coughs then will start after I try again a few times…other times there is nothing no cranking couching but if i keep trying it does eventually start…. works fine once is going….. started at beginning of December but doesn’t seem to matter if it’s cold or not…. has been fine over Christmas holidays but started again once I’ve gone back to work, short journeys may be affecting?
Hi Channelle,
If all the dash lights come on but all you get is a click from turning the key then this is likely to be an issue with the spade connector on the small wire going into the starter motor. If you follow the wire from the battery to the starter motor, then feel around for a smaller wire, try wriggling this and see if the Freelander starts. If this works then it is worth getting the spade connector changed.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Drove vehicle yesterday. after that will not start. give the following” Reduced engine power” and “HDC system not available. I have a Freelander @ TD4 diesel version. Will appreciate your feedback on what to do.
Hi Aftab,
This sounds like a fuel filter issue, when was this last changed? Try changing it and see if it solves the problem.
All the best,
Sue
Hi folks, I have a TD4 Freelander1, bought second hand Feb 2017, drive brilliant until October, and have intermittent acceleration/limp home mode appearing periodically [sometimes drives fine], with occasional [three times in last three months] failure to start, battery fine, just nothing catching to fire up. Car starts about an hour later. Car in use every day, 2006 model with 60,000 miles. Error code on local garage diagnostic shows fuel pressure regulator & fuel pump needed, but garage did say this might not solve the problem. Would appreciate any thoughts? TIA
Hi Maz,
This could be the low pressure fuel pump or the wiring loom on the fuel rail pressure sensor. There is a modified wiring loom available which sorts these problems out, it could be worth fitting that first as it is worth doing even if it is not the cause of your current issues.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello i have problem with my TD4 diesel Freelander 2001.
Since yesterday the car did not want to start on a cold engine I checked the car candles, fuse box, fuel injectors, fuel pump is ok.I clean EGR pipe checking cables look`s ok to my.Accumulator is ok.Only problem with this car i have before is when engine is hot car do not want start.Engine starter looks fine.Can you help me??
Hi John,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
This sounds as though it would be either and injector issue; the fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom or sensor itself (do you have the uprated wiring loom fitted?); the high pressure fuel pump (are there any leaks around this?); or the crankshaft or camshaft sensor.
Have you had it on diagnostics? If so are there any error codes?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
My Freelander 2.0 diesel not strarting but all warning lights turn on no crank at all. Please assist
Hello Maya,
If you are getting not cranking at all and the warning lights are on then follow the lead from the battery to the starter motor (this helps you to identify where the starter motor is). Once you have reached the starter motor feel around for a smaller wire connected to the starter motor. Try wriggling this wire around, it is a spade connection so you are trying to push it in and get a better connection. Try starting your Freelander. If this works then your problem is with the spade connection and it would be worth changing it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello Sue
I have 2005 TD4 freelander problem with starting as follows
fob works to unlock the car, key turns all dash lightsalong with radio,when key turned all dash lights go out along with radio but no turning of starter or engine, when key released dash lights back on and radio, but engine not started.
Any ideas as to the problem?
P.S clutch changed by gatage about a month ago.
Thanks fo any help in advance.
Hi Andy,
This sounds like an issue with the small wire coming out of the starter motor. Follow the wire from the battery to the starter motor then feel around the starter motor for a smaller wire. Once you have found it wriggle it about a bit (it is a spade connector and you are trying to get a better connection), then try to start the car. If this works then the spade connection is your problem and it would be best to change it.
Also check the battery.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue
I have a problem with my 07 freelander 2 2.2td4. the car runs well bet every now and then the engine dies and I have to wait 15 minutes before it will restart. It turns over and tries to fire but does not start. There are no fault codes, the fault seems to occur after going over a big bump, we also have a problem with the fuel gauge intermittently showing empty when it’s not and loosing power, filling the tank to the top cures this issue. The car had to be trailered home last night by the AA but now it starts. Any ideas where to look?
Thank you
Ivan
Hi Ivan,
The issue with your fuel gauge intermittently showing empty is liable to be corrosion of the connectors between the wiring loom and the fuel sender unit. These can be replaced. It may be that your engine dying is connected to this fault as, if the ECU believes you have no fuel it will cut the engine to prevent any damage. Hence it is worth sorting out the fuel gauge issue first and then seeing if the engine dying fault still occurs.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Where is the starter motor this is exactly the problem we have although it did start at first then stopped nothing will get it going at the moment all dashlights headlights locking work but nothing when you got the button to start it
Hi Michael,
Which Freelander do you have, is it the 1.8 petrol, the 2.0 diesel, the 2.5 V6 petrol or a Freelander 2? Which year is it? When you try to start it is it cranking, or not making any noise at all?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi I have a 2002 freelander se and it won’t start the battery light , oil light security light and clock work but nothing else it won’t crank and nothing else will work I need help please
Hi Jesse,
If it is doing nothing at all but still brings all the lights on on the dash then it is likely to be the spade connector on the small wire going into the starter motor.
Follow the wire from the battery to the starter motor. Then feel for a smaller wire which is going into the starter motor. This smaller wire has a spade connector so give it a wiggle and see if the Freelander will then start. If it does then it’s worth changing the spade connector on that wire.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi I have a 2002 freelander se and it won’t start the battery light , oil light security light and clock work but nothing else it won’t crank and nothing else will work I need help please the engine is a 2.5 v6
WE OVERALL THE MOTOR IT START AFTER HALF AND HOUR THE MOTOR STARTS TO SMOKE AND STOP TRY TO START BUT IT WAS LIKE ITS SEES ALOT OILWAS RUNNING TRU THE INTERCOOLER I HAVE THE TURBO OVERALL BUT NOW IT DONT WANT TO START I TRY IT WITH START UP IT START BUT ONLY BURN THE START UP AND STOP AGAIN
Hi Kelly,
We assume this is the TD4 diesel Freelander. Try removing the injectors and checking for oil residue.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421