Does your Freelander 1 TD4 have turbo lag? This can be made worse by the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve being clogged up.
The EGR valve is there to reduce emissions. However, on the Freelander TD4 the vacuum valve, which controls the rate at which exhaust gases enter the intake, obstructs the intake airflow by 35 to 40%, which reduces the amount of fresh air which reaches the intake manifold; additionally it can attract a build-up of thick oily residue from the recycled exhaust gases, further restricting air flow.
Consequently the vacuum valve can easily get clogged and stuck open (or closed).
There are three possible actions you can take when the EGR valve gets clogged:
1. Blank the EGR valve;
2. Clean the EGR assembly;
3. Bypass the EGR (e.g. with a Super flow EGR Bypass)
Generally there are benefits in performance and economy in the TD4 when blanking or bypassing the EGR, but just cleaning it regularly is going to help.
The EGR valve is no.10 on the diagram.
Hello,
I have a Freelander 2001 that lost power over time, was sluggish and wouldn’t go past 120km/h. Took it to the shop and this was done: intake cleaned, cat cleaned, turbo checked and ok, but vacuum pipes were clogged and were cleaned up too. After this the car basically came to life, and the power I remember the car had when I bought it was back!
But there was a problem with turbo lag that I don’t remember having in the past: when I hit the pedal to the floor, the engine doesn’t take of immediately, and it takes around 3 seconds for the turbo boost to kick in, and when it does kick in, the car just pulls!
If I step lite on the accelerator the engine responde immediately, and if I accelerate progressively it gives the power I’m “asking for”, but if I hit pedal to the floor at all revs, i only get turbo boost after 3 secs. If I change gears and kick the accelerator again, it again takes 3 seconds, this happens every time 8 change gears (or step ou and in the accelerator).
Do you know what it could be?
Hi Hugo,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
This could be a faulty turbo wastegate. Try disconnecting the MAF sensor and see if there is an improvement. Are you getting any codes from the engine control unit on diagnostics?
All the best,
Sue
Hi,
First, thanks for the reply.
MAF is new and there are no error codes. Turbo was checked with no issues, and the intake pipes seem to be ok.
Going to check the turbo wastegate then, can’t remember if it was ever changed.
Thanks for your help,
Hugo
Let us know how you get on Hugo and if you need any further help.
All the best,
Sue
Hi I get a reduce engine performance message every day or say and even putting foot gard down on diesel pedal it only goes till 60 speed after a while it drives normal again what could be wrong – some people said Egr or some other valve?
Hi Wayne,
I assume your Freelander is the 2.2 TD4 Freelander 2.
It sounds as though it has gone into limp home mode to protect itself from whatever fault it has. The underlying fault could be any number of things from, as you say, the EGR to the turbo to the turbo boost solenoid or fuel pump. In order to get a better idea of what is causing the Freelander to go into limp home mode you will need to put it on diagnostics. If you let us have any fault codes which come up we will be in a better position to help.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
I have a freelander 1 td4 not reving over 4rpm but it’s start well also the drive, today it just started making a nock noise after running it for about 10 minutes. What might be problem pliz help,, Patrick
Hi Patrick,
Where is the knocking noise coming from? Is it from the engine or somewhere else? What year is your Freelander?
Not revving over 4,000 rpm it could be the o-ring on the crankshaft sensor which has worn or it could be the high or low pressure fuel pump.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue, I am new here.
I have a Freelander 2 TD4 that won’t rev past 3000 rpm. I have noticed air pressure coming back through the inlet manifold and also back through the air filter in the opposite direction; it seems to be balancing off the boost from the turbo when the engine is revved as well. Resulting in the car not accelerate past 15km/hr.
There are no leaks anywhere and if left to idle for long periods, there is no overheating nor drop in coolant levels.
There are no error codes showing up either? Turbo is fine. Could this be an issue with the EGR valve or engine head.
Please assist!
Hi John,
What year is the Freelander.
It could be a problem with the EGR valve or possibly the breather filter on the top cover. It would also be worth checking the throttle body to make sure it is not stuck open or closed.
All the best,
Sue
+44 780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
It’s a 2008 Freelander 2. Is the throttle blade supposed to be open or closed by default?
Will have a look at the EGR valve tomorrow and get back to you. Also, could the accelerate pedal be responsible for this behavior, perhaps?
Thanks
Update: I checked the throttle body and could not find anything wrong looking at it. It appeared to be clean and was in the open position when removed.
Diagnostic scan gives readings which I am baffled over:
Whether or not the vehicle is at the idle position or being revved
1. the TP(%) remains at 100%
2. the TP_R(%) remains at 0%
And ideas?
Hi John,
When you switch the Freelander off and go to the front of the engine after about 10 – 15 seconds can you hear a click coming from hte throttle body as it resets itself. If it does not do that then the throttle body will not be working as it should be.
What diagnostics system have you been using?
If it was the EGR we would expect to see it on diagnostics, however the throttle body does not always show when it has a problem.
The other issue it may be is a fault with the throttle pedal itself, so it could be worth changing this.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421l
I have just put an egr blanking plate on my Freelander 2 ,2012 2.2 190bhp,
I’ve noticed an increase in fuel economy, but it is sluggish getting away,but when it does its like someone stuck a rocket behind me, not to good around town, would it be wise to take it off or put a hole in the plate?
All the best
Carl
Hi Carl,
You will need to put a hole in the plate.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
Any idea how big the hole should be?
hi, i have a freelander 2 2013 td4 and losing power and boost after 20 minuted driving. when cold it drive very well. there no engine light at all, temperature is normal, no misfire, fuel filter and air filter have been replaced, maf sensor and boost sensor cleaned.. it seems like it goes into limp mode. theres no smoke either. any clues please?
Hi Lee,
This sounds as though it could be a problem with the electronic turbo boost control solenoid, which, unfortunately, is only available as part of the turbo itself. Generally if this is the problem, once it goes into limp home mode, if you plug it in to diagnostics and clear the codes (even if there are none present) then it will drive fine again for a while. But it will keep going back unto limp home mode until you replace the solenoid.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I fitted a blanking plate to my 2010 FL2 which kinda worked for a day, then I started suffering intermittent power loss and very poor acceleration… Removed it and everything worked ok again! I also read about moisture collecting on one side of the blanking plate. For what it’s worth, I’ve put the car back as it was but wondered why this happened???
MT
Roy
Hi Roy,
Did the blanking plate have a hole in it?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
No it didn’t have a hole in it. All the videos I watched didn’t say there should be a hole? When I removed the plate, the car responded as normal again, and noticed moisture on one side of the plate?
Do you think I need to try again with a hole drilled in it, and if so what size please.
Thank you for the kind help
Roy
Hi Roy,
We always use a blanking plate with a hole in it, and never seem to have a problem, although we do not generally blank them off. Without the hole we believe it can cause issues.
Unfortunately I am not sure of the size of the hole (I do not have one in stock at the moment to check) as we purchase them already drilled.
All the best,
Sue
I fitted a blanking plate to my 2010 FL2 which kinda worked for a day, then I started suffering intermittent power loss and very poor acceleration… Removed it and everything worked ok again! I also read about moisture collecting on one side of the blanking plate. For what it’s worth, I’ve put the car back as it was but wondered why this happened???
MT
Roy
Thanks Sue for your help on this, I might just leave it off now as I’m not sure what the purpose of putting a “blanking” plate in the first place is if I need to drill a small hole in it? Surly it would soon get clogged up and don’t see by drilling a hole what gain I’d achieve?
Hi Roy,
To be honest we would not normally blank a Freelander 2 EGR valve; it is a common thing to do on the Freelander 1 but it is an electronic EGR on the Freelander 2.
All the best,
Sue
Can you advise
I purchased a 2005 td4 in March. I have fitted a egr blanking kit which has improved performance but on a recent journey of 2.45 hrs mostly at 70mph everything was fine until I got within half an hour of my destination when I lost power above 2.5 thousand revs. The car didn’t want to go above 30mph and would not change up (automatic) unless I took foot of pedal and the revs drooped after that the car would change up and got to 50mph. Embarrassing to have cars behind me until I could speed up. I have a full service kit to fit next week six filters and oil change. Will this help or could it be a sensor ? I like the car and want to look actor but I need to sort this problem on long journeys. I travel to work which is 40 mins each way with no trouble at all average speed around 50 mph.
Can anyone help.
I also use redex injection cleaner every full tank of diesel
Hi Philip,
It sounds as though it went into limp home mode. The service is unlikely to help in this instance, it is much more likely to be a sensor issue. The best thing would be to put it on diagnostics as there should be a fault code stored for this.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Will do
Thank you
I’ll let you know what it is.
Hi
Had the diagnostic read. It came up with p1260 L/S fuel pressure sensor
Is this why it went into limp mode ?
Do you know how to fix it and what part do I need ?
Travelling to work five days a week is hasn’t done it again at an average speed of 50mph. Also I had gearbox failing to communicate with ,Don’t know what this means as I have a automatic gearbox
Hi
Can i drive freelander 1 td4 without air temp sensor??
I have a 55plate td4, 130k miles. Full service history. However it has recently started loosing power between 2,200 and 2,500rpm when accelerating. Lumpy when cold and smokes on startup
I have replaced the MAF and turbo sensors as recommended by a LR merchanic, but to no avail. No management lights any ideas ? Thanks
Hi Kev,
It is worth checking the injectors and check the high pressure fuel pump (in the engine) bay for any leak.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Sue,
I will check it out over the next couple of days.
K
I have a 2001 Landrover Freelander .
i have the problem in fuel pump relay is vibrating and noisy, cannot start,,,
Hi Mano,
Have you tried changing the relay?
All the best,
Sue
Good day
I have afreelander 1 td4.I have a problem when start up .it is a rough start up and after a couple of seconds it idle.sometimes it searches and refs goes up and down.any one can help me please.G
Hi Gideon,
This could be one or more of the injectors being faulty. Does it smoke when it starts up? Worth checking the glow plugs.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
I’ve somehow managed to disconnect the hose that attaches to the EGR valve but don’t know where it has to go to put it back, any help would be extremely usefull
Hi Jamie,
It goes into an actuator underneath the intake manifold. You will see a similar pipe which comes out of the sensor too.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
found some very imformative advice on here as just bought a td4 for the mrs and seems a bit flat initially on start up but in process of servicing it after a complete brake overhaul,will try the options mentioned maf,filter ,egr blank thanks again
This might be helpful to someone with the problems above:
Continuing with my saga after a tankful of dirty fuel, I had the fuel filter changed and “change the oil filter whilst you’re at it”. The engine then started producing clouds of black smoke and had a signifant reduction in performance. I found that the oil had been over-filled by about a litre. Further investigation showed that the EGR was blocked shut and the vacuum feed had ruptured. I cleaned the EGR, replaced the vacuum pipe and removed over a pound weight of congealed oil from the gallery. A quick ‘Italian service’ and everything is back to normal.
Hi,
I intend to remove the EGR valve from my FL1 TD4 and fit a bypass. While I am doing it I thought it would be a good idea to remove the inlet manifold and clean it out. My question is ….would I get away with refitting the old gaskets or would I need new gaskets? Do you sell the gaskets and if not where would you recommend I get them from?
Thanks,
Barry.
Hi Barry,
You would be better using new gaskets. The square ones are £1.91+VAT each and the round ones are £2.40 + VAT each. You need four of each making the total £20.69. UK postage is £1.25.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
First start up go to rev up lumpy pull away seems as though turbo is not working but once engine warms a bit I have more power and turbo kicks in warmer it gets better and more power it gets any ideas am stumped freelander td4
Hi Craig,
It is worth checking the injectors and coolant temperature sensor. The other possibility is that you have a batch of bad fuel.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I have a 2005 TD4 Freelander 1. I have been trying to self-diagnose an issue that started with a split hose. I believe the hose was the EGR to Turbo…the reverse L shaped one. As you can tell by my description I am a full-blown novice but interested to self-fix if possible.
The issue I have since replacing the hose is that I seem to lose power around 70mph and maybe a little above, I would put my foot down but it wouldn’t pick up speed and if there is a hill I am down to 50mph with foot flat.
All seems fine in the car when driving around town, only happens on the motorway but I would say performance overall is sluggish. Like pulling off at a round-a-bout. I haven’t really been able to narrow this problem down, from reading some forums EGR seemed a possibility, as with the MAF sensor or even the turbo and the fuel filter.
I hoping with your experience, this might be a problem you have seen before? Hopefully not too pricey 🙂
Thanks in Advance
Craig
Hi Craig,
I think you have already identified that there are a few possibilities which could be causes your Freelanders sluggishness. The order in which we would recommended checking the cause would be:
1. Unplug the MAF sensor. If there is no change or performance improves then your MAF sensor is the problem.
2. Blank the EGR valve (this is worth doing anyway).
3. Change the fuel filter.
4. If all of these fail to improve things it is likely an issue with one of the fuel pumps.
Hope this helps.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
So if unplug maff sensor and its better which mine is on a 2009 (58) does that mean egr stuck?
Hi Scubasteve,
No, if you unplug the MAF it goes to a default value, so if it is better then it could be an issue with the MAF. What is the Freelander doing that has made you unplug the MAF?
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue I would like to buy a egr blanking kit for my freelander 1 2005.
Do you ship to Malaysia
+14255241311
Hi Luis,
Thank you for your message and text – all responded by text.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
this is my first landrover a Freelander TD4 2003,i have been reading about the EGR bypass can help reduce the smoke on first start up as its a bit lumpy then once warmed up it runs fine, if i replace the original EGR Valve I’m assuming all the hoses i would need to remove will go back on to the new part.
only I’ve read on some forums that it can make noises when it stops.
Hi Ian,
If you are getting smoke on first start up and lumpy running initially this does not signify an issue with the EGR valve it tends to be an issue with either the glow plugs or an injector. If you get somebody to change the glow plugs please make sure they are very careful as they can have a tendency to snap off in the head.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue.
many thanks for your info i had better get someone with the correct gear to get them out in case they break then I’m unlucky like that i will keep you posted as to when i get them done,with my luck it would be the injectors giving me the problem.
what make for the glow plugs and again for the injectors would you recommend i purchase.
Regards Ian
Hi Sue,
just an update on the smoke at the start up on my 2003 TD 4 what i have done is changed the glow plugs as you suggested but i have changed from the regular diesel to the BP ultimate which has resulted in less smoke now on start up,it hasn’t cured but certainly better ,it seems like a combination of other things to reduce it further,but the age of the car iv’e got to expect that,so now i’ll have to look at the lumpy idle so i’ll see how i get on.
What’s the first things to check,i thought about unplugging the MAF to see if it alters anything during and after a run or not.
Hi Ian,
Good to hear you have managed to reduce the smoking. Yes, definitely worth unplugging the MAF and seeing if that makes any difference. Also worth checking the injectors for leaks.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
The glow plugs only work to help start the engine..nothing to do with a SMOKEING issues….
Hi Ken,
We have known the glow plugs to cause a smoking issue on start up before.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421