Is your Freelander not idling nicely? Poor idling is generally caused by a mixture of problems.
Here are the things you should be checking:
1. Check the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). The position of the IAC is calculated from the readings of many sensors – the Coolant temperature, Air temperature, MAP/MAF sensor, O2 sensor,
Throttle Position TPS sensor to name just a few – so putting your Freelander on diagnostics could really help you to locate the problem.
2. Check your crankcase breather filter (PCV).
3. Check for vacuum leaks.
4. Check your fuel pressure regulator.
5. Check your injectors for dirt / leaks.
6. Check your spark plugs are dry (petrol engines).
7. Check your EGR is not stuck open.
8. Check your oil level is in the correct range (always check the oil level when the engine is cold and on level ground).
9. Check your torque convertor.
10. Check your engine is not running hot – the Freelander 1 temperature gauges are, unfortunately, not a good indicator of the engine temperature, they do not go above the half way mark until the engine has seriously overheated.
11. Check for any restrictions in the exhaust system.
12. Check for compression in the engine.
13. Check the engine timing is correct, particularly if you have just had the timing belt changed.
14. Check your engine mounts – it is unusual for these to be the problem when you have a poor idling issue, but it is possible, so if everything else seems good check these.
Here’s to your Freelander running beautifully smooth again.
Hi Sue
Black smoke, fouled spark plugs and seizures at bumps or traffic stops. Also rough idle. However, no sign of problem on levels and down slope roads.
What then would be the problem with my Freelander 1.8 year 2000?
Hi Bonface,
Black smoke is a sign the fuel/air ratio is too rich. Check the injectors. Do you have the uprated fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom fitted? Are there any codes on diagnostics. If it is only happening when you try to demand extra power from it then try cleaning the wire mesh in the bottom of the cream canister in the fuel tank, if this is blocked it may not be allowing enough fuel through.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
I appreciate your feedback and will apply it.
Just a hint: Is uprated fuel rail pressure sensor wire loom a replacement component? Then on diagnostics, it only revealed pressure sensor fault. Guess this meant fuel pressure! Yes the problem is evident while doing hilly roads where the car strains a lot. Just an uprising issue, sometimes, when I depress the clutch to change gear, the engine shuts off while in motion! Please guide on hints. I wil deal with the cream canister thank you.
Hi Bonface,
Apologies for the delay in responding. The fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom fault can cause the vehicle to cut out – when you change it make sure you clean the sensor with electrical cleaner at the same time; in our experience it is more often the wiring loom than the sensor itself.
Definitely worth cleaning out the wire mesh in the bottom of the fuel canister in the tank.
All the best,
Sue
sue@freelanderspecialist.com
This is appreciated Sue.
You are a resource that keeps the glory and hope for the Landrover Freelander world.
Hi Sue,
I have a 2006 mk1 freelander td4 fl2 automatic.
I am having problems with it, hopefully you will be able to help. The problem is intermittent.
Whilst ideling it will cut out it will start up fine. The previous owner has had the fuel rail changed.
On the service I had the fuel pump changed behind the drivers rear wheel. I have had a diagnostic tool on it but no codes coming up. It also looks like someone has tried rewiring the mass air flow sensor. could that be the issue?
Many thanks
Neil
Hi Neil,
If somebody has tried to rewire the MAF then this could be the issue.
Do you have the modified fuel rail pressure sensore wiring loom fitted? If not then it is worth doing this.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi,
I have a 2011 hse sd4.112k miles, I bought it a year ago, I’ve had cambelt and water pump changed, I’ve recently had a gearbox flush by landrover experts. The reason I had the flush was because I have had juddering in 1st gear and reverse only. So it feels like it may stall and flutters from just under 1000rev down then back up. Starting to run out of ideas. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Rhys,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
Are you getting any codes on diagnostics?
All the best,
Sue
Hello Sue! I have a 2013 Freelander 2 2.2 SD4, and I am getting a vibration through the steering wheel when the car is at idle. The engine is idling at 700 RPM, and if I touch the acceleration just a little, the vibration disappears. Otherwise, the engine is running fine, smooth, no errors. The auxiliary belt and tensioner along with water pump has recently been changed. Is this the problem or an engine mount to blame for the vibration? Thank you.
Hi Ramsay,
Was it the timing belt, tensioner and water pump which was changed rather than the auxiliary belt?
This sounds like an issue with one of the auxillary belt tensioners (there are two) or the freewheel clutch on the alternator.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thank you for the reply, Sue.
I did change the timing belt, auxiliary belt, tensioner and water pump. I’ll have the aux belt removed and see if the vibration still persists and then move to check the alternator clutch.
So you don’t think this could be engine mounts?
– Ramsay
Hi Ramsay,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
It could be an engine mount but the auxillary belt tensioners are more common. With the engine mounts it is the lower engine support which tends to go the most, so check this one.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello Sue,
I wanted to update you that it was the front engine mount, the one that is hydraulic, that had completely collapsed. Once replaced, the vibrations have gone down to a minimal level and the gear shifter has become smoother to use.
Thank you for your help.
Great news Ramsay, thank you for letting us know.
All the best,
Sue
Hi Sue,
My Freelander 1.8
Rpm fluctuates between 500 and 1000 at idle but dies to zero and a stop on traffic, occasionally.
Fuel consumption has gone up.
Produces dark smoke and the spark plugs are oily.
Could you please give leads to solution?
Note that diagnosis revealed no faults!
Hi Bonface,
What year is your Freelander 1.8?
All the best,
Sue
Yes it is.
Please give your possible views.
Hi Bonface,
What year is your Freelander 1.8?
All the best,
Sue
Year 2000
Hi there, my mum has a Freelander TD4 2004, and it recently once warmed up, begins to idle rough. Big bounces on the gauge and even cuts out. Nothing comes back on diagnostics; the mechanic says they replaced the map sensors’ various filters and cleaned out the fuel pump. Some other stuff I’m not sure of. It drives fine for two days and then begins the rough idle again. Once the car is warm, you can pull up to a traffic light, and the dial is solid and at the next rough and the following solid or rough repeatedly. There’s no pattern. Can you shed some light. She’s already paid a lot and is very despondent. She loves that car.
Hi Jan
My apologies for the delay in responding.
This sounds like it would either be the fuel rail pressure sensor wiring loom – there is a modified wiring loom available for this as it does tend to cause an issue – or the crankshaft position sensor.
All the best
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue
Just found this site and it’s extremely helpful. I have an 08 FL2 which I am planning to trade in for a 2014 FL2 TD4 Manual. The one that we have test driven which has 67,000 miles on is in very good condition but we noticed on the test drive that there was a very slight variability in the idle on tickover.
It is hardly noticeable by ear and just manifests itself as a slight vibration on the back of your legs when sitting on the drivers seat. There is no noticeable movement in the RPM needle.
Is this something we should be concerned about or is this normal for a diesel of this mileage/age?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mark
Hi Mark,
It does not sound as if it would be a major issue, possibly an engine mount or the auxiliary belt tensioner or belt. Try turning off the air conditioning and see if that makes any difference.
Good luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, I have a 2003 1.8 petrol freelander.
It was idling rough and high and had a few issues with it losing power.
I have changed the spark plugs, the HT leads, lambda sensor, and coil packs. The car then run great!
A few days later it started idling high, in neutral and whilst at traffic lights etc at 1500 revs, there are also occasions that it just starts going up to 2000 revs on its own.
It also smells of petrol when I re-fuel it.
Please can you help? I am just trying to get it sorted to get back to work.
Very grateful for any help
Carrie
I forgot to add that the hill decent warning light has also come on and is staying on?
Hi Carrie,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
This could be caused by the idle control valve; the potentiometer or the MAP sensor. These could also affect the hill descent warning light. The best thing would be to put it on diagnostics which may show which of the sensors has the fault.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
Thank you so much for that information. I will look into getting it onto a diagnostics machine and see what comes up.
Thank you SO much for your help.
Many thanks, Carrie
Hi, when i hold the same constant speed the car start chuckling and only does it when I hold the same speed. Can you help please?
Hi Cyril,
Which engine does your Freelander have? What year is it?
All the best,
Sue
2004 freelander 1.8 k series,runs lumpy like slight miss all time more when run a while also on start theres a smell of petrol,I’ve changed plugs leads and fuel filter in tank to no avail.could you please help.many thanks ler
Noticed engine has slight tap at top end
Hi Lee,
The slight tap at the top end sounds like an issue with the hydraulic lifters; or possibly the oil pump if it is not pumping enough oil up; or a blocked pick-up filter.
This lump running could be the coolant temperature sensor; one of the oxygen sensors; or, worst case scenario, valves which are not sealing properly. It would be worth putting it on diagnostics.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Comes up missfire on all cylinders sue
Hello. My 2000 freelander 1.8 petrol. 1. Idle hangs very long when throttling. 2. Thick white smoke when throttling. Replaced head gasket still the same.
Hello Riyaad,
When the head gasket was replaced did you check if there was any evidence of a cracked cylinder liner and did you check that the cylinder liners were protruding between one and three thou above the block? The thick white smoke could indicate an issue with the cylinder liners.
If the head gasket failure caused oil to go through the exhaust system then it could be that your catalytic convertor is clogged.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello. Thanks. Ad for the idle that hangs. It takes a while. A minute or two before stepping down. Checked pipe from ecu to intake : good. Coolant sensor replaced : good. O2 sensor replaced: good. Noticed that when blanking idle control pipe that it behaves better.
Hi Riyaad,
It could be a problem with the MAP sensor, but this is located inside the ECU. It could also be a problem with the stepper motor / idle control valve.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sir I have land rover 18k engine I changed timing belt and it does not hold idling may just please advise me on this problem please
Hi Soyisile,
If it did not have this issue before changing the timing then it is worth double checking that your timing is correct, if the timing is out you could have this issue.
All the best,
Sue
Hi
My freelander 2 2010 has started to sound like something is Loudly vibrating under the bonnet when idling but it is ok When the revs are up or driving. Current idle rev is stable at 750. I’ve checked everything that could be loose but all is ok. it used to just do it when in drive and stationery and as soon as I put it in neutral it stops but it has started to do it even in neutral.
Any ideas before I take it to the garage.
Thanks
Hi Stephen,
There are two common possibilities, one is the upper engine mount/insulator and the other is the auxiliary drive belt tensioner/adjuster.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Do you provide a EGR clean/service? I have a 2012 SD4 (45,000 miles). I am not completely satisfied with the fuel consumption (35-36 mpg at 70-80mph) and would like to eliminate the EGR valve as a contributing factor to this.
Anyway, I assume the EGR valve doesn’t last forever i.e. the gasket deteriorates and there will inevitable be a buildup of waste.
Thanks,
Richard.
Hi, I have a 2004 1.8 petrol Freelander. It starts ok but in the cold it struggles with low power and cuts out when you take your foot off the accelerator. This only lasts a minute or so until the engine is warm, occasionally the engine management light will flash as well, but again goes out once engine is warm. Any ideas as to cause? I once had a BMW with a similar problem which was down to the MAF sensor, could this be the same?
Thanks in advance, Matt
Hi Matt,
Check the coolant temperature sensor as it can cause this type of issue if it is faulty.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello, hope you can point me in the right direction, my FL1 05 has just started to run lumpy on start up but then settles down and all okay. I changed the plugs first but still lumpy, then the leads and coil packs but still runs lumpy although not as bad ? any advise would be grateful.
Hi Tony,
Is it the 1.8 Petrol or the 2.5 V6 Petrol model?
All the best,
Sue
Sorry Sue, its the 1.8 petrol.
Regards
Tony
Hi Tony,
The best thing would be to do a compression test.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Okay thanks Sue I will it a go.
Regards
Tony
Hi sue,
Hope you can help, bought a lovely fl1 last year with a blown head gasket, replaced it, got heated skimmed etc, replaced all parts with LR parts water pump, timing belt etc. Since then it has run perfect 8000 trouble free miles. Then it started smoking quite bad & using twice as much fuel as normal and running extremely rough at idle, top end it’s alright. Sent the car for dynagnostic check, all ok, replaced distributor cap rotor arm plugs etc. No better. Fuel rail pressure ok, lambada sensor ok, fuel sender unit ok. The only thing that I can think of is it the ECU? I’ve check the pipe for splits etc and it seems fine. Is there a way to test the vacuum sensor in the ECU and if so can it be repaired instead of being replaced?
Kind regards
Steve
Hi Steve,
What colour is the smoke? Does it smell of fuel? Are you losing any coolant?
Have you tried changing the brown temperature sensor?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue,
Thanks for your reply, the smoke was a grey/white smoke and the smell of petrol was quite strong. No lost of coolant yet and header tank is clear.
It starts up instantly, but runs very poorly at idle, if you try to add revs it kind of chokes its self and nearly cuts out. If you try to drive it you need to be careful and maintain a high rev otherwise it will stall.
Not changed the brown temperature sensor.
Hope this helps with the diagnostic.
Thanks
Steve
hi sue,
good morning , my name is charles
please i kindly need your help,i have a free lander 1 2005 v6,
its unstable at idel speed between 1000 to 3000,
at times at idle speed its goes straight up to 4000 without coming down.
please help me i have taken it to 3 mecanic workshops but they couldnt fix it.
i will be very grateful if you can guide and help me.
thanks
from:charles
Hi Charles,
Have the mechanics checked/tried changing the throttle position sensor?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
Thanks for an awesome page and tool which is freelanderspecialist. I come from a series background so all this electronic stuff is a steep learning curve.
For my sins I have recently acquired a ’98 1.8l FL1 and as the motivation was price (read cheap), she comes with some work to do. The engine has been overhauled but the previous owner seemed to see himself as an auto electrician…there are bare wires aplenty under the hood.
Anyway the current cause for writing is an engine which ‘hints’ at being rough, almost missing. Two things to start:
1: the temperature sensor (not the temp guage) only has one wire connected. This may explain the difficult start from cold problem, but when I do connect it once she is running the engine runs TERRIBLY. Missing, farting, jerking….
As I understand it, the ECU is a self-learning item. If I replace the sensor do I merely re-plug the wire and drive her until she learns that the sensor is now operable again?
2: As mentioned, she was overhauled. Could you explain the easiest method of checking timing (cam belt etc) with the engine in the bay.
Thanks
Hi Tristan,
With regards to a diagnostic tool which is affordable for the DIY person there is a Terrafirma tool, TF930, specifically for Land Rovers for £96.85.
To manually test the a/c clutch engagement you can power up from the a/c relay location – or you can use a diagnostics which is how we do it.
It sounds as though the coolant temperature sensor is faulty. With regard to the wiring the Haynes manual will give you all this information.
The sluggishness could be due to the wire mesh filter, which is located in the bottom of the canister situated in the fuel tank, being blocked. Try cleaning this out.
To test the IRD check for play in the pinion. Also try draining a little of the oil to see if there are any metal pieces in it.
Best of luck!
All the best,
Sue
Hi all.
I have just bought a 2003 freelander 1 which has the BMW td4 diesel engine in,the problem I’m getting is the engine will hunt below 1000rpm and just above when the engine is warm but at the minute it’s not cutting out.
Any help would be appreciated
Chris
Hi Chris,
Congratulations on your purchase.
It would be best to put it on diagnostics to try to determine what the fault is. It sounds as though it could be the throttle pedal sensor.
All the best,
Sue
i have 1.8 2005 freelander which the idle runs between 800 and 1100 when cold and settles to 800-900 when hot. Every few hundred miles i get the engine fault light with fan pwm fault butthe fans work and oxy sensor fault but also in the past have had inlet temperature fault. Any suggestions
Hi Andrew,
It sounds like it could be the oxygen sensor or catalytic convertor which is causing the problem.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
thanks for the advice, replacd the O2 sensor at the pre cat and the engine idle has settled the faults dont recur. I have had one fault P0420 suggesting cat efficiency so would i be right in thinking the pre cat has been contaminated and may need replacing.
I have just purchased my wife a land rover freelander there is two promblems 1st – srs light on dashboard .2nd – starts up fine but the idlein on tickover is bit jumpin an inch up down clock before 1 and after 1 on rev counter but does not cut out any one help me many thanks Daryl 🙂
Hi Daryl,
Congratulations on your purchase, your wife is a lucky lady!
The SRS light is generally one of two things. It is either the wires under the drivers seat, try unclipping the wires and clipping them back in – they may have got causght when the seat position was adjusted. Please note if this was the problem sometimes the code does not clear by itself and it may need a diagnostic machine to clear it. The other issue is the rotary coupler for the air bag, which is situated in the steering wheel.
With regard to the idling, which engine does the Freelander have?
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Just purchased my first freelander 1 3door. I have just noticed reverse light switch was unplugged I plugged it back in ?they work now. Just won’t go off lol. Please can any one give me clue. ? Many thanks in advance ?
Hi Stuart,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
Unfortunately it sounds as though your switch is faulty and will need replacing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi..im getting a slight rattle from drivers side front on a 52 plate td4…ive had crank pulley replaced today but old one seemed ok..it disapears above 2 k revs and only in idle ..cars done 72k…new vcu and bearings last month…any ideas please…thanks